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carpe mañana
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I've run that fork for a season. It's one of the very finest forks I've run to date. It shouldn't behave the way you've described.

Being a used fork, you really need to start fresh and do a complete overhaul. You don't know the oil levels and you don't know the condition of the oil (coil marzocchis tend to create a lot of metal shavings inside the oil which increases the viscosity tremendously, which in turn kills the compression stroke feel, particularly for a light weight rider).

The only special tool you may need is a 12mm socket that is either thin walled from the store or ground down to be thin walled to remove the lower nuts holding the lowers in place. (it has been a while since I've worked on the fork).

Finally, check for any signs of the fork being bent; that would typically ruin a performance of any fork.

_MK
 

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I love bike!
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok...thanks guys...just wanted some opinions from some fellow Turner owners as you all seem knowledgeable when it comes to these types of issues. I'll get an oil change done...will eliminate that possible problem at least. Just wasn't sure if there were any other ideas as to a potential problem that I should be aware. I guess I can't help but feel like I might be a little too underweight for the stock spring.
 

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carpe mañana
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dsittman said:
Ok...thanks guys...just wanted some opinions from some fellow Turner owners as you all seem knowledgeable when it comes to these types of issues. I'll get an oil change done...will eliminate that possible problem at least. Just wasn't sure if there were any other ideas as to a potential problem that I should be aware. I guess I can't help but feel like I might be a little too underweight for the stock spring.
You shouldn't be; I was running a good deal of preload on the coil and I'm 185ish. I was also tuning in the compression. The oil viscosity has a huge effect on the damper.

_MK
 

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Sounds like there is air in the air preload

With that stupid little proprietary adapter its hard to get the air out. Put your pump on it and hold the bleed button on your pump and compress the fork, let off the bleed button before you let the fork uncompress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
craigstr said:
With that stupid little proprietary adapter its hard to get the air out. Put your pump on it and hold the bleed button on your pump and compress the fork, let off the bleed button before you let the fork uncompress.
I heard that recommended in another thread too. When I first got the fork I released all the air but didn't compress as you recommend. I'll give that a try...along with the oil change. thx!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just an update if anyone is interested.

Finally got the fork in for an oil change and it was a good thing I did. Tech working on the fork said the old oil was pretty weird looking almost like there was a mixture of water or something in it. Definitely something not right in it. Got a ride in yesterday and fork action seemed 1000x better. Still need to dial it in better but I'm much happier. Still wasn't able to get that last inch of travel even when taking a couple 3-4ft to flat but I don't know if that's necessarily a bad thing. Guess I might have to go a little bigger :D

So...if anyone out there is buying a used fork especially from someone you don't know or don't know the history of the fork...I would highly advise getting it stripped down and new oil at least cuz you never know what it has been through before getting in your hands. Thanks to those of you who helped me out :thumbsup:
 

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carpe mañana
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dsittman said:
[...] Still wasn't able to get that last inch of travel even when taking a couple 3-4ft [...]
The tech who serviced your fork may have put too much oil in it. Quick test would be to undo the side where the coil sits and test if you can compress the fork all the way down (keep damper side closed up); if you can't, you likely have a tad too much oil in the damper.

_MK
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
MK_ said:
The tech who serviced your fork may have put too much oil in it. Quick test would be to undo the side where the coil sits and test if you can compress the fork all the way down (keep damper side closed up); if you can't, you likely have a tad too much oil in the damper.

_MK
So let me make sure I understand your suggestion. Are you saying to unscrew the top cap on the coil side, remove the coil, then see how far I can compress? Do I need to re-screw the top cap on the coil side before compressing? Guess I'm worried about losing oil or something else in the coil side when I compress.

If not able to compress all the way then I guess I need to remove oil from damper side? Do I just unscrew top cap on damper and use a syringe or something to suck a little oil out? Tech said he was going to clarify with Marz on oil level but I guess he could have still been a little off. Could just a miniscule too much oil make that much of a diff?

Appreciate your help MK :thumbsup:
 

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carpe mañana
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Marzocchi is notorious for posing incorrect oil volumes. I don't recall what they need to be on the 55, in addition, if the oil is not fully purged from the damper cartridge prior to filling up fresh oil you'll also end up with excess (and not 100% clean) oil.

You don't have to remove the coil spring, just undo the top cap (the coil is in the left leg, the damper in the right). Compress; don't need to worry about losing oil. If you do, great, that may have been where you had excess. (when you compress the fork, the coil will rise out of the left leg, don't sweat it, it won't fall out)

_MK
 

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Does anyone know how to get the RC3 foot nut to torque on this fork. I get to about 5NM and I cant get it to tighten anymore. I saw that Bikezilla had used an impact wrench on his 66 RC3, but Im starting to run out of tries since the SOFT foot nut is beginning to take a beating.
 
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