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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can't find the thread where I mentioned rebuilding a Joplin 3R w/ 20/50 motor oil instead of the suggested 7 wt. Well, I've been bouncing around on it this winter at P-Blow and no sign of the thing loosing its ability to hold position...so far.

But anyway, thinking about getting a X-Fusion HiLo for the winter project trail bike. Anyone have experience w/ this adjust-a-post? Some feedback of its longevity would be much appreciated. Thanx.
 

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Pau11y said:
Can't find the thread where I mentioned rebuilding a Joplin 3R w/ 20/50 motor oil instead of the suggested 7 wt. Well, I've been bouncing around on it this winter at P-Blow and no sign of the thing loosing its ability to hold position...so far.

But anyway, thinking about getting a X-Fusion HiLo for the winter project trail bike. Anyone have experience w/ this adjust-a-post? Some feedback of its longevity would be much appreciated. Thanx.
Why not the Reverb? It's been awesome for me so far. I'm not sure where you live, but I'd be happy to let you play around with mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yup, the frame is a 30.9. I'm considering the Reverb, but I don't feel this is one part where the complexity of a closed hydro system is necessary. KS is an interesting option since I run Lock-ons and the remote might result in a super clean solution. After I found this out, I'm leaning towards the KS.

I'm finding the X-Fusion at $190 shipped, and the KS 950 at $220..dunnon about shipping. If the remote can be integrated right into my OURY Lock-ons on the left grip, the $30 would be worth it... The Joplin 3's remote was a PITA! I had to chop the length down a 1/2" to get it to sit at a good place. :/

The GD is not in consideration due to cost.
 

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Pau11y said:
Yup, the frame is a 30.9. I'm considering the Reverb, but I don't feel this is one part where the complexity of a closed hydro system is necessary. KS is an interesting option since I run Lock-ons and the remote might result in a super clean solution. After I found this out, I'm leaning towards the KS.

I'm finding the X-Fusion at $190 shipped, and the KS 950 at $220..dunnon about shipping. If the remote can be integrated right into my OURY Lock-ons on the left grip, the $30 would be worth it... The Joplin 3's remote was a PITA! I had to chop the length down a 1/2" to get it to sit at a good place. :/

The GD is not in consideration due to cost.
The one good thing is that the reverb remote apparently mounts well upside-down on the left side if you are running a 1x9 setup. FWIW, I got my reverb for $226 at Treefortbikes.com
 

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Pau11y said:
Yup, the frame is a 30.9. I'm considering the Reverb, but I don't feel this is one part where the complexity of a closed hydro system is necessary. KS is an interesting option since I run Lock-ons and the remote might result in a super clean solution. After I found this out, I'm leaning towards the KS.

I'm finding the X-Fusion at $190 shipped, and the KS 950 at $220..dunnon about shipping. If the remote can be integrated right into my OURY Lock-ons on the left grip, the $30 would be worth it... The Joplin 3's remote was a PITA! I had to chop the length down a 1/2" to get it to sit at a good place. :/

The GD is not in consideration due to cost.
Well the Reverb is pretty slick and soooo smooth. It feels much better than other drop posts I've used. It doesn't seem that complex (no more than hydraulic disc brakes) and seems pretty reliable. I've only had it since last October though. The bleeding (if you can really call it that) is super easy. You just inject some more oil with the included syringe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
BaeckerX1 said:
Well the Reverb is pretty slick and soooo smooth. It feels much better than other drop posts I've used. It doesn't seem that complex (no more than hydraulic disc brakes) and seems pretty reliable. I've only had it since last October though. The bleeding (if you can really call it that) is super easy. You just inject some more oil with the included syringe.
The thought of "bleeding" a seatpost...yeahhhh, no! The Reverb was easily over $100 more.

Right, pulled the trigger on a KS 950. I had a coupon code at BikeBling for 10% off. Mike's Bikes had them for $220 for the 30.9 before I went to lunch. When I got back, all gone! Suck!

Oh, for those looking for a adjust-a-post, Modern Bikes is kicking out the X-Fusion Hilo for $190.

Strange, I'm doing all I can to save weight on this winter project (BLTc), but I WILL NOT ride a trail bike w/o an adjust-a-post again! I'm prob preaching to the choir, but despite how bad the technology of these things are today and how heavy they are, when you're hitting the remote at a frequency of 100 times per hour to placate your bump-skiing damaged knees, you know that extra pound is worth every ounce of sweat!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
CharacterZero said:
The one good thing is that the reverb remote apparently mounts well upside-down on the left side if you are running a 1x9 setup. FWIW, I got my reverb for $226 at Treefortbikes.com
$294 now :/
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay, so BikeBling "upgraded" my KS 950 order to a Reverb for the same price. So, mind if I get some of you w/ it to throw up some setup hints or clues to any idiosyncrasies in setup?

CharacterZero,
Unfortunately, I'm on a 2x9 setup so I think the up-side-down trick w/ the left mount might get in the way of the triggers. From all reports they're coming w/ right side right-side-up mounts...? Not too big of a deal since brkng is mostly on lft, leaving me to shift/dropper w/ the rt.
 

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Sure. Ask me any questions about the Reverb. BTW, ask if the one they sent you has the new upgraded hose. They had a thin plastic-feeling hose on the 1st gen Reverbs and they've since upgraded it to a new thicker, better quality hydraulic hose. I think hose expansion was causing people's post to slow down after a time so they needed to add more fluid.

Apparently SRAM is upgrading them under warranty too. I got mine from Universal, and when I asked them about the new hose, they sent me an upgrade kit with new hose and barbs for no charge and free shipping. It was NQA for me, at least through Universal. It seemed like they had them on hand ready to ship out.

I haven't installed it yet, but the whole process looks super simple and painless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
BaeckerX1 said:
Sure. Ask me any questions about the Reverb. BTW, ask if the one they sent you has the new upgraded hose. They had a thin plastic-feeling hose on the 1st gen Reverbs and they've since upgraded it to a new thicker, better quality hydraulic hose. I think hose expansion was causing people's post to slow down after a time so they needed to add more fluid.

Apparently SRAM is upgrading them under warranty too. I got mine from Universal, and when I asked them about the new hose, they sent me an upgrade kit with new hose and barbs for no charge and free shipping. It was NQA for me, at least through Universal. It seemed like they had them on hand ready to ship out.

I haven't installed it yet, but the whole process looks super simple and painless.
Thanx! I'll get it today and try to put it on this wknd. Gonna call BikeBling on the hose. I wonder if the post uses the same fittings as their brake stuff? If so, maybe I can just use an old Juicy take-off hose and be done w/ it? Hell, if it uses the same hardware as Juicy or Elixir, I've got a spare Goodridge hose... :D
 

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Pau11y said:
Thanx! I'll get it today and try to put it on this wknd. Gonna call BikeBling on the hose. I wonder if the post uses the same fittings as their brake stuff? If so, maybe I can just use an old Juicy take-off hose and be done w/ it? Hell, if it uses the same hardware as Juicy or Elixir, I've got a spare Goodridge hose... :D
Not sure, but I know they changed the barbs and hose with the new kit (probably because of hose diameter). You can't use the old barbs with the new hose. So I don't think the old barbs would necessarily work with brake hoses, being that they were designed to work with that thinner hose.

Now the new barbs might work with any brake hose since the new hose looks more like a hydraulic disc brake line, but I'm not sure as I haven't tried. You'd still have to get the new barbs in order to use a brake hose so you might as well just get the kit if you can get it. The barbs that come with the new line screw into the post on one end and the remote on the other. The line just pushes onto them with some force. It's not your standard brake setup, but it's also a lot easier to work with than disc brake lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
BaeckerX1,

Followed those instruction on your thread in the AM forum and got mine up and running (trimmed the hose and bled). I think mine came w/ the better hose. Also, the remote mount had a SRAM shift pod mount integrated. It's pretty slick, but removes the possibility of mounting upside down and still use that integrated shift pod mount.

An interesting note: My inseam is 33", and I had a custom fit done on a roadie which puts my BB spindle center to top of seat at 29". For my mtb I like to have it at 28". The lowest possible position w/ the Reverb on my lrg BLTc is 28.5", post fully ext'd and fully buried in the frame. So, not a real issue except to point out there IS a minimum extension for a standard post when converting to a 5" dropper if full extension is expected from the dropper.
 

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Pau11y said:
BaeckerX1,

Followed those instruction on your thread in the AM forum and got mine up and running (trimmed the hose and bled). I think mine came w/ the better hose. Also, the remote mount had a SRAM shift pod mount integrated. It's pretty slick, but removes the possibility of mounting upside down and still use that integrated shift pod mount.

An interesting note: My inseam is 33", and I had a custom fit done on a roadie which puts my BB spindle center to top of seat at 29". For my mtb I like to have it at 28". The lowest possible position w/ the Reverb on my lrg BLTc is 28.5", post fully ext'd and fully buried in the frame. So, not a real issue except to point out there IS a minimum extension for a standard post when converting to a 5" dropper if full extension is expected from the dropper.
Glad the thread helped. Pretty simple right? I don't even know that you could call it a bleed. It's really a fluid top off. If you really had a bunch of air in there you could use the 2 syringe method, but I found it to be completely unnecessary. How do you like it so far? I'm running that combo clamp personally, with it above the bar, and just dealing with the possibility that I could break it in a crash.

Hmm, how tall are you? I'm almost right at 6 feet. I run my Reverb with the silver clamp probably about an inch and a quarter above the seatpost clamp on a large Tomac Snyper. If I'm understanding correctly what you're saying, it seems odd you'd be running yours so much lower than me with a 33" inseam. Our frames can't be that much different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
BaeckerX1 said:
Glad the thread helped. Pretty simple right? I don't even know that you could call it a bleed. It's really a fluid top off. If you really had a bunch of air in there you could use the 2 syringe method, but I found it to be completely unnecessary. How do you like it so far? I'm running that combo clamp personally, with it above the bar, and just dealing with the possibility that I could break it in a crash.

Hmm, how tall are you? I'm almost right at 6 feet. I run my Reverb with the silver clamp probably about an inch and a quarter above the seatpost clamp on a large Tomac Snyper. If I'm understanding correctly what you're saying, it seems odd you'd be running yours so much lower than me with a 33" inseam. Our frames can't be that much different.
I need to go thru and shorten all my cables and reroute some. So tonight will be that tweak session. I'm on Goodridge hose for my Juicy Elixir so it's a bit more involved than a straight fwd Avid cable resize (a Dremel is involved...).
As for the extension, like I said, I had a custom fit done due to almost destroying my right knee on the Triple Bypass back in '07. I used to fly my post at 30" from bb center to top of saddle. But the guy who did my fit, Eric Sampson (the same guy who designs the Sampson bikes) demonstrated to me that by going a bit shorter, you can actually get higher revs and power out of your crankin'. My highest rev on a roadie at 30" was ~130, then I'd start hopping in my saddle. W/ it at 29", it was up to ~145 before I started to hop. On a mtb, I like to run 28", allowing me more room to transition between seated and out of saddle bike tossing. I also find that if I go lower than 24", it's too short. So, w/ the Reverb, I have an extra 0.5" on either extremes...I like!
I'll keep you posted on the remote trigger. I run the Answer AM carbon riser w/ 0.5 rise (pretty damn flat). So when the built this bar, it angled up a lot more than higher rise bars. Therefore, the trigger sits below the end of the bar w/ respect to how it's mounted...a bit of protection. But, I did end up degassing the post's system like w/ brakes, and did use the two syringe method.
 

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Ah, makes sense. I feel like my knees start to hurt more if I don't have enough extension personally, though I do run it a bit lower than straight full extension myself. Of course I'm overdue for knee surgery in both knees, so they'll probably hurt regardless.

Did you just do the 2 syringe as a best practice or did you feel yours needed it? Mine was lightning quick after just adding some more fluid at the lever with it on full slow, and then cranking the speed back up. Some say you can get it even faster with the newer hose. We'll see. I don't really need it super fast, but it would be nice to have more usable settings on the return speed and room to dial it up a bit in cold weather.

Nice you got the newer cable. I think I'm going to put mine on tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
BaeckerX1 said:
Did you just do the 2 syringe as a best practice or did you feel yours needed it? Mine was lightning quick after just adding some more fluid at the lever with it on full slow, and then cranking the speed back up. Some say you can get it even faster with the newer hose. We'll see. I don't really need it super fast, but it would be nice to have more usable settings on the return speed and room to dial it up a bit in cold weather.

Nice you got the newer cable. I think I'm going to put mine on tonight.
Yup on the dual syringe. The reason is if you do the de-gassing method, you won't be able to tell when the residual air bubbles stopped and the de-gassed air bubbles began. So, I do the dual syringe first to empty the majority of the residual bubbles, then I do the degassing w/ a single syringe. Okay, maybe a little anal, but I don't like to do things time and time again.
 
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