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I worked on completing my jig for welding my chainstays this weekend. Checking the angle from my print:
Not there yet, but close:
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Second cut was a charm:
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You guys see the mistake?:
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So with the above mistake, I decided that (as you can tell) my workbench is a disaster. I've got no room for "Framebuilding" stuff and decided to make a little shelf for files and tubing so that I could clean up a bit. And then correct the mistake:
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There we are:
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So I referenced off the wrong side of MDF to hit my seat tube angle. See how the above picture is correct and the first one wasn't? I'm just glad I caught that while I was working on the jig. There's no telling how out of square that part was when I started.
I moved the drops to the forward position and cut the stays again with files. They fit nicely and as suggested last week, I moved the stays to be biased toward the inside, well, at least on the NDS. Turns out, the back side of the drive side needs to have some love too as the plate that pulls out of it to allow for a belt is cut away. So I left the drive side in the center and the NDS biased toward the inside. Also, I figured out that neodymium magnets work great to hold some of this stuff in place while it's just sitting there. They may be good enough for tacking, don't know for sure. But you'll see one or two in the next shot:
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Also, I have plenty of chainring clearance. I really wish I'd taken the cranks off of the other bike to test fit before mitering because that's WAY more clearance that I'd expected, wanted, or needed:
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All in all, I think this is going to work ok. It should clear a 34T ring without issue and a 2.1" tire very easily. I would have liked more tire clearance and less chainring clearance if I were doing it again. Next time....
One thing I did change is the way the chainstays hit the drops. Initially, in my model, I had the stay axes going through the centerline of the axle if it were in the middle of the drops. In the WWTP016 update, I had mitered them "in the middle" of the radius of the dropouts because it was easier to do. It didn't really matter much I suppose, but I like the idea of them being done the way I'd designed it rather than the way I first filed them so I fixed it. I like the idea of having more weld around them as well even though it was more difficult to file them in that shape. I think it was worth it though and I"m glad I did it. It's truly a "custom" aspect of this frame and after looking at both Spot's Longboard and Surly's Karate Monkey and seeing that they both had it the way I test fitted it, I was pleased to make the change:
![]()
Not there yet, but close:
Second cut was a charm:
You guys see the mistake?:
So with the above mistake, I decided that (as you can tell) my workbench is a disaster. I've got no room for "Framebuilding" stuff and decided to make a little shelf for files and tubing so that I could clean up a bit. And then correct the mistake:
There we are:
So I referenced off the wrong side of MDF to hit my seat tube angle. See how the above picture is correct and the first one wasn't? I'm just glad I caught that while I was working on the jig. There's no telling how out of square that part was when I started.
I moved the drops to the forward position and cut the stays again with files. They fit nicely and as suggested last week, I moved the stays to be biased toward the inside, well, at least on the NDS. Turns out, the back side of the drive side needs to have some love too as the plate that pulls out of it to allow for a belt is cut away. So I left the drive side in the center and the NDS biased toward the inside. Also, I figured out that neodymium magnets work great to hold some of this stuff in place while it's just sitting there. They may be good enough for tacking, don't know for sure. But you'll see one or two in the next shot:
Also, I have plenty of chainring clearance. I really wish I'd taken the cranks off of the other bike to test fit before mitering because that's WAY more clearance that I'd expected, wanted, or needed:
All in all, I think this is going to work ok. It should clear a 34T ring without issue and a 2.1" tire very easily. I would have liked more tire clearance and less chainring clearance if I were doing it again. Next time....
One thing I did change is the way the chainstays hit the drops. Initially, in my model, I had the stay axes going through the centerline of the axle if it were in the middle of the drops. In the WWTP016 update, I had mitered them "in the middle" of the radius of the dropouts because it was easier to do. It didn't really matter much I suppose, but I like the idea of them being done the way I'd designed it rather than the way I first filed them so I fixed it. I like the idea of having more weld around them as well even though it was more difficult to file them in that shape. I think it was worth it though and I"m glad I did it. It's truly a "custom" aspect of this frame and after looking at both Spot's Longboard and Surly's Karate Monkey and seeing that they both had it the way I test fitted it, I was pleased to make the change:
