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PSYCHOLUST
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just tried to mount a new EASTON XC one wheel in my NINER Carbon fork and it appears that the end of the hub (disc side) rubs against the the inside of the fork leg.
The diameter of the hub end is greater than the steel clamping surface of the fork.

Who has seen this and HOW did you over come the problem.

I'd really appreciate the help.
 

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CARBON FORK SPECIFICATIONS & COMPATIBILITY:
• Easton XC1 wheels, both geared and SS (since the front wheel is the same) do not fit the Niner carbon fork. This problem is limited to ONLY the XC1 wheelset. Easton’s new Haven wheels DO fit.
• Industry 9 wheels that use the convertible front hub (9mm QR / 15mm / 20mm) need special end caps available through Industry 9.
As standards in the mountain biking world are always changing, it is impossible to update the dropout of our fork to accomodate each new hub design. We are sorry for any inconvenience this may cause. Currently, these are the only issues we are aware of, but if you encounter any fit issues with hubs and the Niner carbon fork please let us know.
 

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PSYCHOLUST
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, there you GO..... I guess I can say that NINER was good enough to publish this information, then again, has anyone ever felt the need to research the possibility that a wheel and fork might NOT be compatible. ( I do admit that the HUB is a very odd shape, so it isn't something NINER would engineer there parts to avoid)

On the good news side..... I overcame the problem and it cost me ONE CENT.
 

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PSYCHOLUST
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well......
The end of the hub that should be pressed against the steel reinforsement of the drop out is 19mm in dia.
The axle end that sits in the drop out , of course, is 9mm
So if you take a PENNY , which at 1.5mm is thick enough to create the needed
clearence (and 19mm in diameter as luck would have it.)
and drill a 9mm hole in the middle it fits right between the hub end and the drop out.
The load is still carried by the interface of the steel reinforsement and the 9mm axle end
(axle end is 5.5mm long so the 1.5mm penny lets the axle end protrude well beyond the reinforsement plate)

So, as I said..... problem fixed for ONE CENT

One cautionary note: My FORMULA brakes have more than enough lateral adjustability to make up for the 1.5mm
I suppose it is possible that someone running a different brand of brakes could have an adjustability problem....maybe
 

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scyule said:
well......
The end of the hub that should be pressed against the steel reinforsement of the drop out is 19mm in dia.
The axle end that sits in the drop out , of course, is 9mm
So if you take a PENNY , which at 1.5mm is thick enough to create the needed
clearence (and 19mm in diameter as luck would have it.)
and drill a 9mm hole in the middle it fits right between the hub end and the drop out.
The load is still carried by the interface of the steel reinforsement and the 9mm axle end
(axle end is 5.5mm long so the 1.5mm penny lets the axle end protrude well beyond the reinforsement plate)

So, as I said..... problem fixed for ONE CENT

One cautionary note: My FORMULA brakes have more than enough lateral adjustability to make up for the 1.5mm
I suppose it is possible that someone running a different brand of brakes could have an adjustability problem....maybe
i ordered the rims and forks, and had no idea that they dint get along. my rims got here a couple days ago and still waiting on the forks..anyways i guess i have the same problem now. i hope im not asking for much, but could you post a pic of the work you did with your penny so that i can get an idea of what ill need to do. also i hope my brakes work, anyways the penny trick is worth trying, after all the money i just spent on this. if you could post a pic of the work and what it looks like it would be highly appreciated. thanks
 

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PSYCHOLUST
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
With my CHEAP digital camera, I just get a blurry mess when I try to get close enough to really show anything.

Take a PENNY, do your best to determine the CENTER of it and drill a 9mm hole in it

Slip your new 'pennywasher' over the end of the hub on the DISC side and reinstall the wheel.

It couldn't be simpler

One more thing worth noting. One of ther guys asked if I had to stretch open the fork legs to reinstall the wheel... Answer "NO", drops right on light always.
 

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PSYCHOLUST
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ONE MORE THING........

For anyone considering buying EASTON wheels in spite of all this, I learned something very interesting.
I considered using my easton wheels on another of my bikes and inquired about getting a 15mm thru-axle hub I could lace in and found out that NO PARTS are avalible for EASTON WHEELSETS.
No hubs or spokes or rims........ If you damage an EASTON wheel in any way, BUY A NEW WHEEL......

I ended up buying a new hub for a pair of AMERICAN CLASSIC wheels I had at JENSON for $165. and converting those instead.

Something to consider when deciding which company deserves your hard earned CASH
 

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ONE MORE THING........

For anyone considering buying EASTON wheels in spite of all this, I learned something very interesting.
I considered using my easton wheels on another of my bikes and inquired about getting a 15mm thru-axle hub I could lace in and found out that NO PARTS are avalible for EASTON WHEELSETS.
No hubs or spokes or rims........ If you damage an EASTON wheel in any way, BUY A NEW WHEEL......

I ended up buying a new hub for a pair of AMERICAN CLASSIC wheels I had at JENSON for $165. and converting those instead.

Something to consider when deciding which company deserves your hard earned CASH
So since using the .01 solution have you had any issues with rubbing when you ride. I know the fork flexes a bit when you ride. I will probably try it but the rub I get from fork flex drives me nuts on all my forks.
 
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