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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I'm reaaaally really tired right now. I'm going on 12 hours of hard labor, riding, then a stupid idea to try and service my rear LDL hub.

I'm gonna post pics, little to no explanation. I will provide it at some time, but the procedure is so effing easy, the only thing I will recommend is to (of course) make sure you remember the order of the thin washers and make sure the main seal is fully seated. WTB told me many of the warranty returns are due to the user not installing the seal properly when they think it is. I used prep M. Lots of it. Also, make sure the preload nut is just barely snug and no more is needed. Cover all the exterior bearing surfaces for a hydrophobic barrier.


First pic is the axle with the locknuts removed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Reassembly. This hub is so easy to service, it's not even funny. The only special tool needed is one 19mm cone wrench, while you may use a regular one for the locknut. The instructions WTB sent me even said bearing preload is adjustable on the bike.
 

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Awesome pics thanks.

Just to re-emphasize what you said
-keep track of the thin washers. They can hide themselves and stick to the top of the bearing w/o you realizing it. Keep their order correct.

-put the freebody/axle on first, THEN put the black rubber/metal sleeve back on and seat it properly. When taking the hub apart it is easy to pull the freebody off and then take the seal off. It seems natural to put the seal on first then put the freebody on but that is wrong.

- remember which side the cone nuts go on. I actually put it together backwards and put the cone nuts on the free body side, and the freebody was getting in the way of the cone wrench. I had to consult the pictorial direction at Am classic to get it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, one thin ring in question was missing and I didn't know I lost it until I was puzzled about why the hub was binding real bad. It turns out it goes between the bearing of the freehub and the bearing in the hub body. Inserted and problem solved.

This is how the hub works:
1. Torque applied from pedals turns freehub body.
2. Spring tang catches in cam plate holes, turning cam plate slightly.
3. Cam plate has angled holes that control the position of the pawls. Pawls move down simultaneously and engage the ring on the freehub, thus transferring torque from freehub to hub.
 

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Also,

Mprep is the perfect lube. Greasy but not sticky. Regular bearing grease is too sticky and the pawls move too slowly. I've found that the Mprep does break down easier though and that the seals can't handle a really wet /muddy ride.

As you said rebuilding is really easy but those that expect total weather performance and never having to touch them should look elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Two months of use, or so. The grease was dark, but I don't consider it truly dirty, per se. Lubricants turn black in the presence of carbons from the metals. I didn't find any grit in there, luckily. I don't know what color the lube was originally, btw. It really looks like the lube was just blackened, but functional from use. There was probably some moisture contained in it, however. I tend to spray the hubs for cleaning.

Don't know about the seal with the kit. Call them. They are very nice and helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh, I might include that you really shouldn't use "Tons" of grease. The pawls seem to return to rest simply from centrifugal force, so too much grease there may impede it. I ended up removing a bit of grease, along with adding a few drops of penetrating oil to the whole mix. Prep M is fine, I just used too much initially.
 

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sorry to ask...

thanks for the visual demo. now, how do i take the axle out?:confused: i tried unscrewing the cone nuts but the silver end cap only allows the cone nuts to unscrew so far. i just don't want to accidentally break anything!

thanks for your time!
 

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silver end cap

Yup... better safe than sorry, eh?

No problem though, just keep unscrewing and the silver end cap pops out. when you put it all back together you just tap it in with a hammer.

Good Luck.....

ps... the hardest part for me was figuring out how tight to tighten the axle when I put it back together.... sealed bearings don't give you the same input as loose bearings.
 

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Thanks for this post. It is really helpful! I just wanted to reiterate not to use too much grease. I just overhauled my rear hub a few days ago. I had too much grease under the cam plate, and between the cam plate and the hub body. Too much grease prevents the spring on the hub body from engaging the cam plate. Just put a very thin layer of grease on both sides of the cam plate.

I've had my hubs for three years and they have been very good. I just replaced the bearings for the first time, but all other parts of the hub appear to be great shape. They are light, strong, and look nice.
 

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I've never used Slick Honey so I don't know for sure, but I'd think any waterproof grease should work fine. I used Prep M on the cam plate, and Finish Line Teflon grease on the pawls near the large black seal.

Below is a link that I found really helpful also. These are overhaul instructions from American Classic. It's the same hub design as the WTB hubs.

http://www.amclassic.com/pdfs/17mmHubOverhaul.pdf
 

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O.K., stupid question.... how did you get WTB to send you the parts? I'll do what I have to, but I sent them an email almost a week ago and haven't heard anything. Should I call them or what? I'm trying not to be impatient but I'd like to get this hub rebuilt. My spare wheels are pretty heavy and I'd like to get back to my regular stuff.

Really nice demo/photo thing. Thanks a bunch.
 

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WTB recommends that you use next to no lube since it can make the camplate slow to rotate. I find that 75-90 wt synthetic gear oil works best on my Laserdisc Lites. The two wheelsets I have are still rolling great.

Also a few more comments:
The original hubs had a completely flat cam plate with holes to engage the spring wire. The newer one is pictured and has raised sections that engage the SS wire on the f/h body. This is a much better steup. When the wire wears on the old hubs, the wire will not engage the holes and the rotate the camplate so the drive pawls will not engage the f/h body and your cranks just spin. Voice of experience on that one. If you have an old-style cam plate, give WTB a call (forget e-mail; they do not respond). You will need a new cam plate and an upgraded Freehub Body, which has heavier gage engagement wire. They will send you what you need. It cost me about $25.

When the hub is apart, rotate the bearings. If they feel notchy or grabby, ditch them. The OE bearings are pretty cheesy. Get a set of Enduro replacements. I am thinking about ceramics the next time I need to replace them since they are about 60% lighter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The lube comment contrasts with my own experience, as they told me to use PrepM. I believe I have mentioned not using too much, as this does slow action down. For the most part, engagement it not affected due to the disproportion of driving force to resistance of the grease. The place where it messes things up is upon disengagement. Those pawls need to flick themselves out of the way and can sometimes hit the tips of the engagement teeth.

Again, the LDL's are made like this only to minimize rolling resistance. This is also the reason cited by WTB as the reason for sealing being next to nothing.

At this point, the LDL's are overpriced since the ProII's became a lightweight contender. THey are also sealed and made to last as investment pieces.
 
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