Chances are the tip of the spring that engages the cam plate snapped off. WTB has a freehub body kit with new shell, bearings, spring, and cam plate. Not sure on the cost but it should take less than 10 minutes with two 17mm cone wrenches and an axle vise if you've got one.
WTB Laser Disc freehub problem
I have a set of wheels built around WTB Laser Disc Lite hubs. The free hub body went south right off the start line yesterday. Pedal, and the cassette just spins, with a litttle sound of the pawls as they miss engaging. Have any of you had experience replacing or working on the Laser Disc Lite free hub body?
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Thanks. That definitely sounds doable.
Oh, it's about a three year old wheelset that I have raced and ridden hard all those years. I just chalk this one up to normal wear and tear. I love the hubs, they've been great, I'm just glad to know it's probably an easy fix.dogonfr said:How old is your wheel
Cool just wanted to make shure. You might want to give them a call about the parts, they are reall cool people working there & they can make shure to send the proper care package to you. If this is already your game plan feel free to reply back, mind your own buisness bud.GrantB said:Oh, it's about a three year old wheelset that I have raced and ridden hard all those years. I just chalk this one up to normal wear and tear. I love the hubs, they've been great, I'm just glad to know it's probably an easy fix.
http://www.wtb.com/info_contact.html
My '04 hubs take a 19mm wrenchMike B. said:... Not sure on the cost but it should take less than 10 minutes with two 17mm cone wrenches and an axle vise if you've got one.
Good to hear 3 years of use....
I've had mine for a little over a year. I was worried about durability issues, especially with the whole american classic recall last year. So far, they've been flawless, but 1 year is really short term in my opinion. I just don't want to be starting any endurance race and have these guys crap out on me. I've been looking at the Hope Pro2 Hubs. They're 295 g, 4 pawl/24 pt engagement (which I'm told is actually 48, b/c the 4 pawls are offset, 2 engage at a time). I don't know actual weights, but just something to throw out there. I never expected the WTB laser disc lite hubs to last me a lifetime, but I'd be very happy with 2+ years of hard riding. Let us know how the replacement/repair works out.
I've had mine for a little over a year. I was worried about durability issues, especially with the whole american classic recall last year. So far, they've been flawless, but 1 year is really short term in my opinion. I just don't want to be starting any endurance race and have these guys crap out on me. I've been looking at the Hope Pro2 Hubs. They're 295 g, 4 pawl/24 pt engagement (which I'm told is actually 48, b/c the 4 pawls are offset, 2 engage at a time). I don't know actual weights, but just something to throw out there. I never expected the WTB laser disc lite hubs to last me a lifetime, but I'd be very happy with 2+ years of hard riding. Let us know how the replacement/repair works out.
I'll be sure to post about the fix once it is done. I just ordered the freehub kit as well as new bearings today.
Out of curiosity what was the cost?GrantB said:I'll be sure to post about the fix once it is done. I just ordered the freehub kit as well as new bearings today.
Sorry for the delay in reply.Vulcan said:Out of curiosity what was the cost?
For the freehub kit and bearings for the other side it was something like $34.00
Mine has only under 400km on them and I noticed the other day when I had the cassette off if I spun the freehub body back and forth fast the odd time it would slip. Only reason why I did that was because I had the one time issue like you had. I pedaled and it spun without grabbing but worked normal after that "slip".
Okay, the hub has been repaired. As I said, the freehub kit plus bearings for the other side of the hub was $34.00. $39.00 when you inlcude shipping.
As someone suggested here earlier, it was the single thin spring that drives the cam plate that went south. It had a little crook in it. The rachet teeth on the freehub body were pretty torn up, too.
At any rate, the new freehub body was a marked improvement design wise over the old one. The spring in question was easily twice as thick as the original, which I'm sure will make that failure less likely. The cam plate is improved, too, with more of a dimpled surface rather than two dimensional holes, making it easier for the spring to engage.
I didn't install it, the shop did, but they were impressed by the improvements.
There is one iffy thing. When I put the wheel back together and on the bike this morning, I noticed a significant amount of drag in the rear wheel. Cranking it on the stand in a tall gear, then letting go of the pedals, the pedals kept turning a la fixie. Hand on the crank, and the freewheel spun. In the ten minutes I played with it, it dissipated a good bit, and its nothing I would have even noticed riding. I'm going to chalk this up to new parts needing a settling in period.
If you want, I can post photos of the old parts. I know photos of the new stuff would be cool, but I forgot to do that before I took it all to the shop.
As someone suggested here earlier, it was the single thin spring that drives the cam plate that went south. It had a little crook in it. The rachet teeth on the freehub body were pretty torn up, too.
At any rate, the new freehub body was a marked improvement design wise over the old one. The spring in question was easily twice as thick as the original, which I'm sure will make that failure less likely. The cam plate is improved, too, with more of a dimpled surface rather than two dimensional holes, making it easier for the spring to engage.
I didn't install it, the shop did, but they were impressed by the improvements.
There is one iffy thing. When I put the wheel back together and on the bike this morning, I noticed a significant amount of drag in the rear wheel. Cranking it on the stand in a tall gear, then letting go of the pedals, the pedals kept turning a la fixie. Hand on the crank, and the freewheel spun. In the ten minutes I played with it, it dissipated a good bit, and its nothing I would have even noticed riding. I'm going to chalk this up to new parts needing a settling in period.
If you want, I can post photos of the old parts. I know photos of the new stuff would be cool, but I forgot to do that before I took it all to the shop.
The stronger cam springs are gonna produce a little more pedal drag. But think about it...it's only a problem when you're coasting... I vote for the added durability!
I completely agree. At least its an affirmation that the spring is standing it's ground.
Don't want to derail the thread too much but quick question...
The LaserDisc Lite hubs use sealed roller bearings, how does one adjust the play in these hubs? Far as I know this type bearing doesn't have any play to begin with.
The LaserDisc Lite hubs use sealed roller bearings, how does one adjust the play in these hubs? Far as I know this type bearing doesn't have any play to begin with.
Destroy, when my LDL hubs developed play the lbs managed to "nip it up" a bit but they quickly got worse. the cartridge bearings should be easy to replace but ive emailed WTB about 4 times now to try to get more and have had NO RESPONSE at all. good luck getting them.
I called information for San Fran. Asked for Wilderness Trail Bikes. Got the number, called, told them my problem. Got connected to, I think, a Marty. He was cool, asked me how my day was going, and let me order the parts I needed over the phone. They shipped out about a day or two later.foureyes said:the cartridge bearings should be easy to replace but ive emailed WTB about 4 times now to try to get more and have had NO RESPONSE at all. good luck getting them.
good to know, in the uk its a bit trickier. i notice their site has been completely updated so will give it another go. most places here can get hope bearings no probs but wtb, no can do
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