[Skeeter97]

So I've got a serious case of upgradeitis and looking at the wheels next (just put on a dropper post). I've got the stock Rovals that came on my 2013 stumpy FSR comp. So are these worth upgrading? I weigh 230lbs so need something durable.

Also looking at going 1x10, carbon bars, new cranks, all that stuff. I'm never happy 😉. Appreciate any input


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[randyharris]

I'd suggest rolling with the Roval's until they need replacement, unless they're not tubeless then in that case dump 'em quick!

 

[RajunCajun44]

Well rovals are going to be around 2100 g per wheelset.
http://forums.mtbr.com/specialized/what-weight-roval-wheels-specialized-hi-lo-hubs-872255.html
Stans arch are 1775 that is more than 300g of savings... Shoot I'd replace them... but that is just me, Im kind of a weight weenie... lighter tires and rims will help, hub weight doesnt make much difference....

 

[Blatant]

At OPs weight, I would steer clear of Archs.

 

[Skeeter97]

Thanks for the input. I'll probably be better off losing some weight first before upgrading, I got about an extra bikes worth on me right now. For now I'll just stick with upgrading brakes, and going 1x10


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[Eazy_E]

Guys on MTBR elsewhere really seem to like the Light Bicycle carbon rims. I know a couple guys who have tried them and they tell me the difference is nothing short of amazing.

Just the hoops only cost 160 bucks a piece. At the price, why not?

What brakes are you running right now? I started off with Avid 5 but changing to Shimano XT was a great investment. I also changed to 203/180 rotors. The 203 is good, but the 180, with XT brakes, and a Captain tire seems to lock up and slide a lot in the dusty conditions you see in places like Sedona.

 

[Skeeter97]

Guys on MTBR elsewhere really seem to like the Light Bicycle carbon rims. I know a couple guys who have tried them and they tell me the difference is nothing short of amazing.

Just the hoops only cost 160 bucks a piece. At the price, why not?

I'd definitely consider those but how will they hold up at my weight? You're right though, for the price why not. Would be cool learning how to build up a wheel

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[woahey]

...that is more than 300g of savings... but that is just me, Im kind of a weight weenie...

300g is about half a pound. Before I spent money on saving that little bit of weight, I'd take a poop. The average person has one ounce of poop per pound of body weight in them. :thumbsup:

 

[azjonboy]

300g is about half a pound. Before I spent money on saving that little bit of weight, I'd take a poop. The average person has one ounce of poop per pound of body weight in them. :thumbsup:

Someone's been watching building wild

 

[Phillbo]

the oil can in my camelback weighs more than that ....

 

[tiSS'er]

Wheels will make a huge difference, and building your own wheels is not at all difficult. I purchased Roger Musson's e-book ($14) and have never looked back. I always had my wheels built by Dave at Speed Dream, but the wheels I have built (3 sets now) have stayed truer longer. A worthy skill and incredibly rewarding.

Wheelbuilding book for building bicycle wheels

 

[RajunCajun44]

300g is about half a pound. Before I spent money on saving that little bit of weight, I'd take a poop. The average person has one ounce of poop per pound of body weight in them. :thumbsup:

wow, thanks so much for setting me straight... i never knew how full of $hit I was... You are correct dropping 300g of wheel or tire weight is completely irrelevant... OP, please only upgrade if the weight difference is about 5 lbs or so... maybe wahoey can let us know when the weight difference starts to be significant

Sorry for being such a dumbass.

 

[Skeeter97]

Anyone else weigh themselves after dropping a deuce today??


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[Skeeter97]

Seriously though, I know weight savings is important but isn't that only a small part of a wheel upgrade? Isn't improved hubs, a better feeling ride, and improved durability part of it too? I've never strayed from stock wheels before so curious what all the buzz is about


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[Blatant]

All those things are true. At your listed weight, though, you don't have the same options as some of the little whippets out there.

Rovals are actually pretty nice wheelsets. You're not going to see a radical improvement without spending a fair bit of coin. I'd run 'em til they break and then upgrade.

 

[dirtbyte]

...For now I'll just stick with upgrading brakes, and going 1x10...

Out of all the changes I made in the last year, this is the one I have got the most benefit from. XT Shadow+ Med Cage rear der, 11-36 XT cassette, XT cranks with all 3 rings removed and middle replaced with Race Face 32T Narrow Wide ring (NO chainguide needed) and XT rear 10sp shifter (iSpec mounted to my XT brakes). Totally loving that setup.

 

[Eazy_E]

How quickly can Narrow/Wide rings be changed? I'm interested in going to a 1x10 setup with a 42 tooth rear. I ride mostly in Sedona and Flag, but I like lower gearing for Sedona and I like it higher for Flag, I spend most of my time in Sedona on the small ring, and most of my time in Flag on the middle. Should I just get a Narrow/Wide that splits the difference?

 

[dirtbyte]

How quickly can Narrow/Wide rings be changed? I'm interested in going to a 1x10 setup with a 42 tooth rear. I ride mostly in Sedona and Flag, but I like lower gearing for Sedona and I like it higher for Flag, I spend most of my time in Sedona on the small ring, and most of my time in Flag on the middle. Should I just get a Narrow/Wide that splits the difference?

How quick can you remove 4 chainring bolts? I would say about 5-10 minutes (depending on how many beers you have had). It does not require taking off the crank arm(s) or pedals. I just went with 32T (but they do offer 30T also) which was the same as my middle when I was 2x9. Honestly, I thought I was going to have a hard time not having the little ring, it took all of about 5 rides for me to adjust, and now I don't even know it is gone, I just have stronger legs now and get to the top faster (and it seems easier). Best part is passing guys on climbs that are spinning away, and I just cruise on by smiling.

Also, I should mention there are 3-4 companies making 40 and 42T cassete rings that you can put on, and then put on the rest of your cassette. you just leave of the 17T ring (if you need lower range).

There are some great threads on this over here: Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks

 

[tysonnemb]

How quickly can Narrow/Wide rings be changed? I'm interested in going to a 1x10 setup with a 42 tooth rear. I ride mostly in Sedona and Flag, but I like lower gearing for Sedona and I like it higher for Flag, I spend most of my time in Sedona on the small ring, and most of my time in Flag on the middle. Should I just get a Narrow/Wide that splits the difference?

Not sure if this will be helpful, but I ride a 34 front and 11x34 rear. I found certain climbs, like Mesquite in the White Tanks, I needed the granny, but was not in my 34 in the rear. Meanwhile, BCT, SOMO, Sedona, FINS, Hawes, I was only in the middle ring, but used the 34 on the cassette. I went to a 1 x in the front, and just got a size in the middle of the granny and middle ring. In my case, I went from a 38 middle to a 34 front, and it is fine for everything I ride. I have an ethirteen ring, and use a bash and guide, although I am sure you don't need a guide, just didn't feel like removing it.

 

[Skeeter97]

Ordered my Wolftooth narrow wide chainring last night. For now I went started with a 30T up front to go with my 11-36 cassette. I'm not the strongest climber so figured that would be a good place to start.

Today I'll be ordering the brakes, and some new pedals. NOT to turn this into a flat vs clipless debate but I'm thinking about getting some flats for a while just to improve my skills a bit. I have no balls while riding lately anymore and find myself taking corners wayyyyy too slow "just in case" I wash out. My thinking is running flats for 6 months or so will help me learn some bike handling/cornering skills. Again, not trying to make this a pedal debate


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