[Bikezilla]

Somebody asked me for some tips on applying 3M tape on their frame but their PM BOX IS FULL!!

Just in case they've got plans, I won't name names, but actually this is a good topic as plenty of ppl are building up new bikes and many want to protect the finish.

FM tipped me in on getting 3M film in bulk from this place called xpel.com

They have great prices and also good installation instructions and videos.

All in all the hardest part was cutting the strips to form around the standoffs like the cable guides and such. Measure lots, cut once. Use really sharp comfortable scissors, clean the blades frequently as they get sticky and start to cut like crap.

As far as applying it the short story is:

Get a small spray bottle fill it with water and 3-4 drops of dish soap or baby shampoo.(xpel highly recommends J&J no more tears) Spray the frame and the sticky side of the 3M tape. Get both good and wet. Also spray your fingers so you it won't stick to you and leave nasty prints. You will also need a stiff plastic sqeegee. You could use a plastic putty knife or something similar. It's helpful to have a good edge on part of it as you may need it for tight areas and working over decals.

While it's wet, you can slide the film around easily. As you squeegee the water out, the film will adhere. Keep working with the squeegee in small areas. The harder you press the more it will stretch so remember it will get longer towards the ends. This is important if you are trying to avoid overlap or extending onto welds. It actually holds onto welds pretty good if you work it diligently with the squeegee. Be sure to let it dry for a day or so before putting the frame to use. If any areas get problematic, you can use a hair dryer to soften the film and make it even more workable. That will also accelerate the drying process. I've read you can fix trouble bubbles by poking a pin hole in it but that never worked for me. I either got it right or I didn't.

I did pretty much my entire Highline frame and most of three other frames. It was a PITA to do a whole frame but I took my time. Of course it's easier to do it before you build the bike.

Even w/o the hair dryer I was able to do the welds and decals quite nicely no bubbles. It's virtually invisible except for where some edges came up short or overlapped.

So anyone else have tips to add? If we get enough input maybe this could be a refrence thread.
:thumbsup:

 

[cactuscorn]

i got turned onto exel by zilla who heard about it from fm. i too ordered up a ass ton and did the majority of the dhr. heres what i learned:

i went for the dry method and im happy with the almost perfect results. i mean ya cant see it till yer within a foot ot 2 of the bike... its that slick. be sure to clean the area thouroghly before startin with rubbing alchohol. dont get lazy on this step or itll look like crap and/or peel off. use a clean terry scrap and allow it to dry before ya start. it doesnt hurt to wipe the tube again with another dry terry scrap to get any residual film off. and fer gawds sake, keep yer oily fingers away from the clean serfaces.

i spent waayyy too much time measurin and makin templates from a large gift box then scorred them to conform to the square tubes, even cuttin very small triangle shapes to indicate center of long or complicated shapes. i also found ya need to be careful of stretch as ya keep the tape taught. pull too hard and youll have a extra inch or more at the end of a 20" piece. the 8mil tape is alot thinner than expected so it folded over onto itself pretty easy. my advice is to keep the pieces no wider than 2" if theyre longer than a foot or more. maybe the wet trick would make it better. in the end, i cut the 3 plus sides into individual forms and let them overlap 1/16"-1/8" which worked well and kept the massive peices down to a managable size.

id use my templates and scissors or a sharp knife and a machinists ruler to get my shape bein careful to round all corners down to a 1/4" radius. once i had my peice, id peel back a cpl inches, fold this new flap back flat on itself, find my center and slowly lay it down peelin more backing off as i went. i used xpels soft black rubber squeegee to conform to rounded surfaces and my plan worked well but if i had to do it over again, i think id use zillas wet method and see if i could make it that much better.

for the rfx, i just used some 2" bulk alont the entire downtube and kept it simple.

if ya need more pics of the results, ill take some. same if ya wanna see the templates.

 

[Bikezilla]

Good point on rounding the corners. I did that as well.
The wet method worked so well I actually had to point out the seams for people to see the bike had film on it.

Also when it's wet it won't stick to itself or anything else until you press on it.

Paper templates are another great tip cc. Since the tape and it's backing was clear I just marked the tape and cut it directly but it actually scuffed up the paint finish in places. I'd bet paper is easier to use.

 

[Bollox]

Used the same stuff on my RFX and it's worked better than any other clear film that I've come across. Its thick but remains pliable and has a good clear adhesive thats remains strong regardless of temperature ranges.

I bought a bunch, then promptly gave most of it away to my buddies after they saw it on my bike:thumbsup:

A great product.

 

[FM]

FM tipped me in on getting 3M film in bulk from this place called xpel.com

Well I think Shanedawg turned me onto it, so I can't take all the credit

Good tip on using water/ lubrication. Didn't know about that.

I will say this; I had one bike recently without the tape, one wet muddy ride with roach DH pads and the paint on the top tube was SHOT.
OTOH, I had another frame that was covered with tape, after a year of riding I peeled the tape off and the frame looked brand new underneath. That resulted in much higher resale value... and now I'm a fan.

 

[6thElement]

So where do I need to drop my Highline off to get taped Zilla?

 

[cactuscorn]

i did the post application cut trick on my 1st attempt with my old semi-clear aviation tape and got a few cut marks in the paint so i made the templates. gotta warn ya, it takes a lot of time to make em but ya only gotta make em once if ya get it right then yer set for years.

 

[Serotta b1kr]

I used the same stuff on my MDX. That is my, Acura MDX. It's the product used for auto invisible paint protection kits. I paid a local guy from a Mercedes car shop to put the stuff on. It came out perfect, it is almost impossible to detect it's on there. But, I only have it the front area, mirrors and door edges.

I am going to take the easy way out on my RFX. Just take it to the guy and pay him to put it on the high impact areas like the underside of the downtube, etc. Probably lookin at like $20.

 

[Bikezilla]

So where do I need to drop my Highline off to get taped Zilla?

For you dude? No Problemo!
Please disregard the Mag-21 you find on your front end when you get it back!

 

[skunkty14]

Considering how beat the PC looks on my RFX after only 18mos of riding I will definitely take the time to do this if/when I get the frame re-finished. And my fork lowers, my fork looks like shite.

How does this hold up in crashes? Tear easily or close in toughness to the PC? Anyone wrap the polished rear triangle too?

Worth wrapping a raw bike? Not that I have one waiting or anything.....I'm leaning towards no.

 

[wilks]

I have some of this stuff but just put it on cable rub areas - I also put it on the underside of the downtube to help protect it from rock dings. I just stuck it on no water or hairdryers or any other BS (Zilla you must have the patience of a Saint) - However it is a little thinner for downtube protection than I would like. Perfect to cover tubes and prevent rub and scratches though but I cant imagine it offering too much protection from rocks flying up etc...It certainly isnt as robust as the helicopter tape I bought from just riding along in England a few years ago which is quite a bit thicker.

http://www.justridingalong.com/?product=73

 

[miles e]

Worth wrapping a raw bike?

Raw means no finish whatsoever. :nono:

I'm tempted to get another raw bike just so I wouldn't have to worry about protecting the finish. But colors are pretty.

 

[wheatgerm]

Zilla, thanks for posting this. I've been looking for the clear film and haven't had any luck at the local stores. Larry at MtnHigh put on some 3m film on the frame (comes as a kit). I have a few other spots on the spot that need some tape as well beyond the kit.

 

[rscecil007]

Thanks a ton for posting this Zilla, sorry my inbox was full. I hadn't paid attention to how many messages I had in awhile, but I cleaned it up now.

I got mine on last night using the paper template and dry method, but I'ts not perfect. Still got an air bubble or two. I can tolerate it however.

BUT, I didn't know the wet/soapy water method would work. I used a similar film for a protective cover for my mp3 player, and used the wet method, and it worked like a charm. The whole time I was doing my Highline I was thinking "Damn I wonder if I could put this on like I did my mp3 player..."

I may redo it then using this method and try to get it even mo' better, I've got extra, and time to mess with it.

Zilla, did you do your top tube and downtube in sections or one long strip? I tried one long strip, but the transistion area where the tubes go from square up front to round in the back, that area seemed to wrinkle easy on me.

 

[moosehead]

don't be silly, wrap that willie

 

[cbrossman]

Beautiful!
I was looking for something to protect my new Chumba hardtail, my future El Ciclon and the better-half's future DW Spot, and just ordered a bit.

Thanks Mr. Zilla.

 

[cactuscorn]

put a helmet on that soldier!

 

[Bikezilla]

BUT, I didn't know the wet/soapy water method would work. I used a similar film for a protective cover for my mp3 player, and used the wet method, and it worked like a charm. The whole time I was doing my Highline I was thinking "Damn I wonder if I could put this on like I did my mp3 player..."
...did you do your top tube and downtube in sections or one long strip? I tried one long strip, but the transistion area where the tubes go from square up front to round in the back, that area seemed to wrinkle easy on me.

So you were willing to get your Ipod wet but not your bike?

The wet method makes handling the film much easier. It won't stick to your hands or the the bike until it't pressed. You can adjust the position as you go, and even peel up parts and reseat it without knackering it. This way you can use long/large sheets and work the curves of the varing tube diameters. Even with small pieces, you can set, remove and reset if it's wet. Straght up...it's MUCH easier to just spray the dammed thing first!
I did not use a hair dryer, I just pointed out that it can be helpful if you run into a trouble spot.

Use only a couple of drops of soap for a small spray bottle of water.(like a 5 oz bottle) the solution does not need to be sudsy, or even slippery. The soap is there as a sheeting agent so that the water does not bead up on the film or the bike. This prevents dry spots where the film would instantly stick on contact. When the bike, film and your fingers are wet, the sheet of water between them will float the plastic film until it's squeegeed out. Pressure will set the adhesive to the surface. Time will bond it.

I did most of my Highline. Top tube, down tube, head tube, seat tube, taco, between the forward shock mount, the sides of the shock mount, the bottom bracket. Even most of the rear triangle: Chainstays seat stays, the top face of the lower yoke and the upper shock arch. The top tube was one long sheet. The down tube was one long sheet plus two short sheets (one on each end). Only parts of the top of the down tube got covered and that was based on the width of the sheet I was working with. The sides and underside is covered. I overlapped onto the welds at the headtube as that's were the cables often make contact. It's still holding quite well there.

Yes the plastic can rip if you go down hard on a pointy rock garden. I've had some stuff that was 10x thicker and just as invisible but I can't find it anymore. Bikeshield I think it was called(?). It would add significant weight if you did the whole bike in that stuff though. The 3M stuff seems to have no issues on the downtube. I went the whole season in rocky conditions and the underside of the frame has no marks.

I did lay the bike down on a rock once and ripped some off the seatstay. Also gouged the metal so you know nothing would withstand that.

As FM said first and formost this is to protect from armor abrasions and cable rub. It also resists mud rub and tire rub. You can probably find heavier stuff to double up on your BB and DT if you really need it. Maybe on your seatstay sides if you're a grinder. Pad rub has made the top tube of my frame hazy as heck now... and it's all on the plastic :thumbsup:

Oh yeah, Larry does sell great kits, I had no idea he'd apply them upon request. What a guy!
BTW there's also a lot of clear-tape discussion in this *cough* other *cough* forum where they are rather keen on protecting their epoxy...I'll let you work that out for yourselves.

 

[cactuscorn]

i once covered my tires in epoxy lookin for more grip, it didnt work for shyt. why waste it on a perfectly good aluminum frame?

 

[steve47co1]

I have been using a similar product for a couple of years now

Somebody asked me for some tips on applying 3M tape on their frame but their PM BOX IS FULL!!

Just in case they've got plans, I won't name names, but actually this is a good topic as plenty of ppl are building up new bikes and many want to protect the finish.

FM tipped me in on getting 3M film in bulk from this place called xpel.com

They have great prices and also good installation instructions and videos.

All in all the hardest part was cutting the strips to form around the standoffs like the cable guides and such. Measure lots, cut once. Use really sharp comfortable scissors, clean the blades frequently as they get sticky and start to cut like crap.

As far as applying it the short story is:

Get a small spray bottle fill it with water and 3-4 drops of dish soap or baby shampoo.(xpel highly recommends J&J no more tears) Spray the frame and the sticky side of the 3M tape. Get both good and wet. Also spray your fingers so you it won't stick to you and leave nasty prints. You will also need a stiff plastic sqeegee. You could use a plastic putty knife or something similar. It's helpful to have a good edge on part of it as you may need it for tight areas and working over decals.

While it's wet, you can slide the film around easily. As you squeegee the water out, the film will adhere. Keep working with the squeegee in small areas. The harder you press the more it will stretch so remember it will get longer towards the ends. This is important if you are trying to avoid overlap or extending onto welds. It actually holds onto welds pretty good if you work it diligently with the squeegee. Be sure to let it dry for a day or so before putting the frame to use. If any areas get problematic, you can use a hair dryer to soften the film and make it even more workable. That will also accelerate the drying process. I've read you can fix trouble bubbles by poking a pin hole in it but that never worked for me. I either got it right or I didn't.

I did pretty much my entire Highline frame and most of three other frames. It was a PITA to do a whole frame but I took my time. Of course it's easier to do it before you build the bike.

Even w/o the hair dryer I was able to do the welds and decals quite nicely no bubbles. It's virtually invisible except for where some edges came up short or overlapped.

So anyone else have tips to add? If we get enough input maybe this could be a refrence thread.
:thumbsup:

Good stuff, Zilla,

I like the soapy water tip - I have been just using a high heat hair dryer for my applications.

I got turned onto the 3M 8663 aviation tape a few years back which has some thickness to it (.46mm), so I use it on my DH bike as well as my RFX. I don't have a roller/squeegee so I use the hairdryer to heat it up and then use my hands or fingers to smooth it out.

To the question of does it actually protect the frame from hits - yes, with this product it does. I run it on my downtube and the outside of seat stays, chainstays, etc., as well as on cable rub areas.

Here is 3M's description of it:
Polyurethane protective tape with acrylic adhesive. Total thickness 0.018 inch (0.46 mm). Applications include aircraft leading edge structure protection. 3M™ Polyurethane Protective Tape 8663 is made from an exceptionally tough abrasion resistant polyurethane elastomer that resists punctures, tearing, abrasion and erosion. It is
formulated for resistance to ultraviolet light. Tape 8663 provides a simple, easy method of
protecting a surface from corrosion, abrasion and minor impact damage. It can be installed
in a minimum amount of time with simple tools. It can be painted or applied over painted
surfaces. Tapes 8663 and 8663 DL are constructed with a long-aging, solvent resistant,
pressure sensitive acrylic adhesive that is protected with an easy release plastic liner.

As it is thicker, it is a little easier to work with than the thinner (automotive bra) tapes. One problem - it is ridiculously expensive. It is $300 a roll - I found a 4" x 36 yard roll on eBay for less than $100. Should last me a lifetime of bikes.

As to raw finishes, I have one and where I have it applied, it does cut down on the frequency of re-polishing if you are into that sort of thing.

I can also attest to the abrasion resistance - I hit the ground a lot on my DH bike and the stuff takes a licking and I just peel it off and put on a new slice and my surfaces still look shiny new. :thumbsup: