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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm giving my '07 Asta a winter cleaning and have a few questions.

Rear shock/suspension:
  • Ario 2.2 - How do I rebuild it? Is this guide the right one to follow? Also where to get the kit to rebuild it?
  • It looks like there are 4 608RS bearings in the linkage points for the rear triangle. Would these bearings (scroll down to the "608 RS Enduro® "Blue Seal" Premium Quality Sealed Wheel Bearing") be a good replacement? The bearings do need to be replaced as they are not moving freely and with much grinding (like a pepper mill).

Also, cables? Never replaced one, it's been 3 seasons is it worth doing now? I'm going to be putting a new crankset, likely a Stylo 3.3, is there anything else I need to be checking? Front forks, easy? worth doing? possible to do myself w/ out some special tools?
 

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Also, cables? Never replaced one, it's been 3 seasons is it worth doing now? I'm going to be putting a new crankset, likely a Stylo 3.3, is there anything else I need to be checking?
If all the drivetrain is the original:
When you change out the cranks do the chain / cassette / cables and housing..


~Jake
 

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That looks to be the correct instructions. The rebuild kit can be ordered from BTI through your LBS but they are out of stock right now. The MSRP on the kit is $45. :cornut:

BTI Part Number: RS-4010
RS Part Number: 11.4310.641.000

Those bearings will work just fine, be sure to pop the seals off and pack the bearings with grease if there is not enough on them new. :thumbsup:

Definitely past due to replace cables and housing, Jagwire is a excellent choice. :yesnod:

http://www.spadout.com/c/cable-kits-brake-derailleur/

If you have never replaced the fork fluid this is the time to do it, but buy your suspension fluid at a motorcycle dealership it's much cheaper and you get way to much so you can replace your friends fluid plus lubricate your shock with the same fluid. My personal favorite fluids are Maxima synthetic or Red Line. :rockon:

Replace the brake fluid since your on a roll. :devil:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
dogonfr said:
That looks to be the correct instructions. The rebuild kit can be ordered from BTI through your LBS but they are out of stock right now. The MSRP on the kit is $45. :cornut:

BTI Part Number: RS-4010
RS Part Number: 11.4310.641.000

Those bearings will work just fine, be sure to pop the seals off and pack the bearings with grease if there is not enough on them new. :thumbsup:

Definitely past due to replace cables and housing, Jagwire is a excellent choice. :yesnod:

https://www.spadout.com/c/cable-kits-brake-derailleur/

If you have never replaced the fork fluid this is the time to do it, but buy your suspension fluid at a motorcycle dealership it's much cheaper and you get way to much so you can replace your friends fluid plus lubricate your shock with the same fluid. My personal favorite fluids are Maxima synthetic or Red Line. :rockon:

Replace the brake fluid since your on a roll. :devil:
If the bearings are sealed I assume that I wouldn't want to open them? Do you happen to have a guide for the fork fluid, also I assume that you can do this w/ the fork on the bike yes? Mechanical brakes otherwise I'd drain and bleed them as well.

Jake Pay said:
If all the drivetrain is the original:
When you change out the cranks do the chain / cassette / cables and housing..


~Jake
The drivetrain is hardly original ;) I'm on my 2nd casette, 3rd derailluer (upgraded to an X9), 2nd chain, and 3rd derailluer hanger. The casette is fairly new, will I have the same issues with a new crank as you do if you don't replace a chain with a new casette, slipping, etc?

Also I suppose that no one has replaced the bearings on the rear suspension? If you have how did you manage to remove the old one? I think I'll need to call Ibex to see what they suggest.
 

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RCook said:
If the bearings are sealed I assume that I wouldn't want to open them?
You can get the seals off most sealed bearings..I use an icepick to remove the seal and re-pack with grease..As of late I've been using (click>) Phil-Wood-Waterproof-Grease
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The drivetrain is hardly original ;) I'm on my 2nd casette, 3rd derailluer (upgraded to an X9), 2nd chain, and 3rd derailluer hanger. The casette is fairly new, will I have the same issues with a new crank as you do if you don't replace a chain with a new casette, slipping, etc?
If your chain has over 150 miles on it, I'd change it when the new crank gets installed

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Also I suppose that no one has replaced the bearings on the rear suspension? If you have how did you manage to remove the old one? I think I'll need to call Ibex to see what they suggest.
I've only had my ASTA for 9mos. So I've not had to mess with them..

A few months back when I talked with Jack he mentioned he had some bushings in stock..I didn't need any so I didn't order, you may want to check into it..Call Will (ibex tech) at 770-569-0606 or e-mail [email protected]


~Jake
 

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RCook said:
If the bearings are sealed I assume that I wouldn't want to open them? Do you happen to have a guide for the fork fluid, also I assume that you can do this w/ the fork on the bike yes? Mechanical brakes otherwise I'd drain and bleed them as well.
Bearings are mass produced and it's not uncommon for them to have insufficient amount of grease. As Jake suggested ice pic or a safety pin will work. :thumbsup:

Here is the full rebuild instruction sheet from RS, I would suggest removing the fork this will be much easier to pour the fluid out and gives you a chance to grease the headset. You dont need to do the full disassembly just remove the top cap and empty the fluid be sure to stroke the lowers to purge all the fluid out and after adding fluid reassemble stroke the lowers again to burp any air out. :cornut:

http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/95-4310-745-000 2006 Tora Service Guide.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
dogonfr said:
Bearings are mass produced and it's not uncommon for them to have insufficient amount of grease. As Jake suggested ice pic or a safety pin will work. :thumbsup:

Here is the full rebuild instruction sheet from RS, I would suggest removing the fork this will be much easier to pour the fluid out and gives you a chance to grease the headset. You dont need to do the full disassembly just remove the top cap and empty the fluid be sure to stroke the lowers to purge all the fluid out and after adding fluid reassemble stroke the lowers again to burp any air out. :cornut:

http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/95-4310-745-000 2006 Tora Service Guide.pdf
Thanks for the guide, that is perfect. So after reading the guide it would appear that I could alter the travel of the fork by adding/removing spacers. I don't remember the stock travel but assuming it's 100mm would I see any gain or loss by going to 130mm of travel, I am a bit of a clyde 260lbs so keep that in mind.

Also dumb question, how does one go about removing the fork? Just remove the handlebars and stem and presto?
 

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RCook said:
Thanks for the guide, that is perfect. So after reading the guide it would appear that I could alter the travel of the fork by adding/removing spacers. I don't remember the stock travel but assuming it's 100mm would I see any gain or loss by going to 130mm of travel, I am a bit of a clyde 260lbs so keep that in mind.

Also dumb question, how does one go about removing the fork? Just remove the handlebars and stem and presto?
I wouldnt go past 120mm, it's designed around 100mm fork. I built mine up with a 120 and it was great. :thumbsup:

You got the right idea on the fork removal, remove stem leave the bars on, the Park Tool web site is helpful. :D

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=65
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Chains are cheap in the long run so it will get replaced, that settled on to other issues...

Ok I removed the bearings from the frame linkages, prior to removing them I got very little rotation and when they did rotate it felt like I was working a pepper mill all kinds of grinding. Once I had the bearings removed of course the started to rotate quite nicely with little to no binding at all. Further I noticed that there was little if any grease in them.

So the question is this, for the bearings that I have removed they will get replaced. For the remaining 2 bearings in the 'triangle' portion of the suspension I'm considering just removing the dust caps and cleaning and repacking them as it will be a right ***** to get them out. Is that a fair trade, clean/repack vs. replace especially given the difficult location?

RCook
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Finished the cleaning and rebuilding last night with some help from my most excellent LBS. Went in after work and we removed all the bearings and replaced them, of the 6 bearings 4 of them wouldn't turn at all. Tore down the rear shock and front fork, fork had a blown o-ring and was leaking so this was great timing. Everything went back together including a new Stylo crankset. I'm going for a ride today at lunch so we'll see how she works after being all cleaned up.

Big thanks to Ibex and the tech department, I couldn't find some of the bearings online so they sent me two free! Also big thanks to my LBS for helping me out, if your in Des Moines, Ia check out Rassmussen's Bike Shop!

RCook
 
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