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Discussion Starter #1
I looked, and didn't see this, so..............

Has anyone tried this ??

It seems that one could purchase a 135 hub ... Especially a used one, and widen, or have it widened, for much less than the cost of a new hub, in a required width.

Two methods come to mind, a press-fit sleeve, and a welded in spacer.

Thoughts ?
 

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If you do it symmetrically, the cassette will be much too far inbound than will work. I suppose you could do all the widening on the NDS.

I don't think it'll be cheaper than getting a new hub...the Salsa Mukluk3 rear hub is $115 and is purpose built.
 

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Not worth the hassle IMHO. Can it be done? Probably. But if this is a cost saving measure, your end result will be much lower in quality than the cheapest 170mm hub. I'm assuming you wouldn't hack up a high quality hub to start with.

If you want to save (make?) some money, modify skewers to 170!
 

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Bikeabuser, All my hubs have been done this way. I don't have time now but will post again with details later. I usually use WTB Lite hubs, can be done economically and comes out at about 500g for the pair. I have several thousand miles and no issues so far. Steve
 

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Spacers are a bad idea but could work if well executed. Not worth the time IMO.

Buy the right parts. They are worth it and not that expensive. How much money do you think you'll actually save after all the time modifying?

If you want to use a cheap 135mm hub then you should be riding a 135mm offset frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Bikeabuser, All my hubs have been done this way. I don't have time now but will post again with details later. I usually use WTB Lite hubs, can be done economically and comes out at about 500g for the pair. I have several thousand miles and no issues so far. Steve
Awesome !!!
I'd love to see some pics :cool:
 

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If you do it symmetrically, the cassette will be much too far inbound than will work. I suppose you could do all the widening on the NDS.
That is not true. If you cut the hub in half between the spoke flanges and widen it, the cassette will be in exactly the same position relative to the dropout as a factory 170 hub.

Like he said above, sryanak has done it, and Sandman has done it as well with Shimano XT hubs.
 

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There is also a picture of some XTR hubs I widened in the Latest Fatbike Purchase thread from 11/12/2011. Unfortunately I can't find any during the build photos. I will be doing a WTB front within the next couple of weeks I'll try to document that.

I've basically done the hub shells two ways, split it somewhere between the flanges and extend it with either an oversize carbon sleeve, pictures 3 and 4, or cut it the same way and then machine flanges onto the end of a thick walled aluminum tube and then bond that into the gap. Pictures 1 and 2 and the XTR's were done that way. (Ok so the picture order got messed up but you can figure out which is which I bet) I do all the machining on an old metal lathe. I bond with Gougeon G Flex epoxy. You just have to find tubing that matches the diameter of whatever hub shell you are using. The front and rear WTB's can use the same sleeve with a little bit of shimming on the front for the external sleeve. Same with the XTR's
For the axles I have had to split them as well and sleeve the middle, both the XTR and WTB axles lend themselves to this but it would be way better to just get a longer aluminum tube of the correct diameter. I have not been able to find one to date. WTB has spare parts for their axles which lets me easily buy the pieces I need to extend the axles. I do try to put the splice in a part of the axle that is not heavily loaded. I can tell you from experience don't put it right at the base of the cassette. Pretty obvious after the fact but that was a perfect spot for economical use of material.
I also did this with a pair of Rotaz hubs but the clutch mechanism on them is not at all durable so I wouldn't go there again.
The WTB's can sometimes be found on E Bay for around $100.00 for the pair. The XTR's were in that range as well but are harder to find. If you want to try another hub it helps if the hub shell is the same diameter all the way across but it isn't necessary, the XTR's are not.
I'll post a bit more as I get into the front hub. It only takes me a couple of hours and is fun if you are into that sort of thing. The first ones did take a bit longer. And where else can you get a 500 gram fatbike hubset for $200.00?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
sryanak,
Thanks Much !!!

Bonding ... Yea, I can see it working well.

I once worked for a guy making bonded together motorcycle rims ... Sounds crazy, I know. The man worked for 3M adhesives division, and introduced me to an adhesive that created a bond which was stronger than the base material (6061-T6). He broke it in a hydraulic press to prove the point.

Again, thanks ... I'll keep an eye out for a future installment, but yea ... I got the idea :thumbsup:
 

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Good work Syranak !!!
 

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I love homemade solutions. :)

Especially when they're as neat as this.
 

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I forgot how simple the WTB front was. No splicing on the axle since it is just a 15mm id sleeve that the end caps fit into. It butts the inside of the bearing race. I made a new sleeve out of some tubing I had laying around. Had to mill the inside ends to 15mm since it was not a metric tube. I then cut the hub shell in half. And then cut the carbon tube to length and shaped the ends to match the hub shell. Both of the latter with a dremel tool and cutoff wheel since the regular cutter on the lathe doesn't play nice with unidirectional carbon tubes. All told about two hours but I still have to glue it all together.

The last shot is the pair, rear at 295 g and front at 190 g.
 

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This is very interesting, thanks for the photos and description, sryanak.

I have a 36h rim and would like to try and widen a front hub for it. Do you know of any 36h hubs that would work for this? I'd like to use a XT m756 hub, but I'm afraid the straight section in the middle might be too short.
 

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Yeah, most likely it's not worth the trouble, but homemade frames aren't really either, and tons of people build frames as a hobby. Personally I love tinkering with stuff like this and a result that actually works is much more rewarding than clicking buy online.

Plus it's not easy finding 135mm front disc hubs in 36h (there are some rear ones for freewheel that have almost symmetrical flanges, most likely I'll just get one of those).
 

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Discussion Starter #20
For the tinkerer, I see it as well worth the trouble, as I don't see a lot of trouble to do such a thing ... YMMV

Thanks again, Syranak !!
You've moved this limited budget a bit closer toward a vision.
 
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