[kapusta]

Physics would actually tell a very different story. It all comes down to the amount of leverage the rider has over the opposing force of the front wheel. The pivot point of the shorter stem is lower and closer to the fulcrum (head tube/steer tube) providing significantly more leverage over a longer and higher stem with a flatbar.

The fulcrum is on an imaginary line that goes through the center of the the steer tube and extends infinitely from both ends of the steer tube, so IF if the hand position is the same (I'll take your word from that example that it is, I can not do the calculation myself because there is no angle given for the 70mm stem ), then the relationship to that fulcrum is also the same.

The mistake you are making here is the same one that lead to power curve cranks.

 

[LCW]

 

[Axe]

"Physics would back up the notion that the handling would be the same regardless of how you get the grips where they are. My experience backs this up as well"

Seriously???

So you are saying that a bike with a 70mm 1" angle rise stem + 1" of headset stack + flatbars will handle the same as 50mm no rise stem + no headset stack + 2" riser bars? Are you nuts?

Same bike, but they would handle very different even though resting hand position would be nearly identical.

Physics would actually tell a very different story. It all comes down to the amount of leverage the rider has over the opposing force of the front wheel. The pivot point of the shorter stem is lower and closer to the fulcrum (head tube/steer tube) providing significantly more leverage over a longer and higher stem with a flatbar.

Umm. No. The pivot is from the grip to the steerer. It only matters how they are connected for vibration absorption and such. Brush up your mechanics.

Common mistake: look up Z-cranks discussion, so as not to repeat arguments.

There are no exactly equivalent set ups as all flat bars have no upsweep. Slightly different hand position.

 

[Fuglio]

Umm. No. The pivot is from the grip to the steerer. It only matters how they are connected for vibration absorption and such. Brush up your mechanics.

Common mistake: look up Z-cranks discussion, so as not to repeat arguments.

There are no exactly equivalent set ups as all flat bars have no upsweep. Slightly different hand position.

Just find a 40mm stem with some rise and youll be good.


I reject the OP's premise and apparently so do many others . Theres plenty of lovefor high rise bars.

<a href=https://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d141/mrpea9999/?action=view&current=0308140854e.jpg target=_blank><img src=https://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d141/mrpea9999/0308140854e.jpg border=0 alt=></a>

 

[Axe]

Just find a 40mm stem with some rise and youll be good.

Wut?

 

[cmc4130]

3" rise Black Market Bada Bing, older Race Face stem with 10 degree up rise, plus 1" of spacer...

I understand that the flat bar thing has a look.... but to me it's all about your height and where your stance feels comfortable.

I feel like having a taller front end helps me center my stance back, is better for declines and jumping. No OTB!

 

[FireinMTB]

I'm rocking some riser bars ATM, and I love them. I went for the rise bars because my steerer tube length was too short to run spacers+the flat bars I have, so i invested in some 2" risers.

Bike rides fantastic now, and looks fine imo.

 

[abeckstead]

Spank spike 777's had them on my other bike and kept them for my RM altitude. I did one ride with the stock flat bar and pulled them. Makes the bike feel much like a dirt bike which I like. But I'm also 6'4" on a XL frame and a lot of wheelbase. For really really retarded steep stuff I stand anyways.

 

[D Bone]

I just bought a 19" 2013 Jamis Dakar XCR Comp 29 that came with a 110mm/6* stem and 20MM rise bars. I am 6' tall and have had a 2 level lumbar fusion - plus I'm an old moto guy - so I just ordered a white 80mm 8* Answer Rove G2 stem, plus white Answer 2" Pro Taper Expert 720 bars to get me where I need to be on the bike........... Will post pics as soon as I can.

 

[D Bone]

Subscribed

 

[spirit4earth]

Sorry to drag up and old thread but I'm looking for a super high riser bar for a build I'm doing. I really want virtually a BMX type bar, though if it could be light weight and carbon than great. It also has to be 31.8 or 25.4. That that actually means that most BMX bars are out because they use 22.2


The highest standard MTB carbon riser bar I've found is the Answer Protaper 720 with 50mm rise (2")

View attachment 876730

The highest standard bar I'd found is 100m (4") NS bar
NS Bikes District Bars 2013 | Chain Reaction Cycles

It is actually 22.2 but says it comes with shims. I just realized then if I can get shims it does open me up to using standard bmx bars.

these bars are pretty light too with a 25.4 clamp and 75mm rise
Deity Components Villain 3 Handlebar 2014 | Chain Reaction Cycles



And Box has some BMX bars that have a 30.8 clamp. These come in 5.5" or about 135mm. But they are really heavy. » Maximus Handlebars | Box Components - Cycle Group Inc.


I'd really like to try a carbon bar with 100mm rise if anyone spots one? But there may be a few options for aluminum too, especially if I can get ahold of some shims.

I also just found this great UK page with some other high rise bars: Top 10 HandleBars

There are also the Azonic World Force Rizer bars, in 2" and 3" models. I'm considering the 3".

 

[scottzg]

There are also the Azonic World Force Rizer bars, in 2" and 3" models. I'm considering the 3".

I've had a pair of the 2" for probably 5 years. I like them and would get them again.

30mm of spacers doesn't look so wierd when the bottom spacer matches the headset and the rest are black.

...tall people problems...

 

[Terp]

I'm rocking 3" risers... on my dirt jumper. That's a different beat though. I'm 6'3 and it's a tiny bike. The rise helps me get the front end down for landings and I'm not all crunched over when rolling around. Unfortunately my experiences with riser bars are only helpful for 6-7 seconds of an average mtb ride...

 

[Betarad]

Center of Gravity. Haven’t seen it mentioned in the various pro vs. con arguments made thus far. May be minimal, but riser bars help lower C of G, the way I see it.

 

[bigrobpage]

i want more 50mm 29+ bar choices. only ones right now are deity and answer.

i AM a tall rider. and most all of it is in my legs so seat has to be higher. would like bars up a bit so i dont have to crank my neck so much.

no taller than 60mm. 40-50mm juuuust right for alot of us.

Here are some options.
TORSION
RIVERA

 

[djjohnr]

Hi/low rise handlebars are just one tool to help you get the optimal bar height/reach for a particular frame/fork/wheel/body geometry combination. The same person may have one bike that requires a high rise bar and another that requires a low rise bar. There are some problems that only a higher rise bar will solve - if you need to squeeze every last mm of reach out of a bike, running 0 headset spacers will put the handlebar the farthest out possible; at which point your only tool left to get the optimal height is handlebar rise.

 

[kapusta]

if you need to squeeze every last mm of reach out of a bike, running 0 headset spacers will put the handlebar the farthest out possible.

What about just using a longer stem?

 

[djjohnr]

What about just using a longer stem?

That at may work in some cases, it depends on how far forward you want to move the bar; stems generally come in 10mm increments which can be way too much. Sometimes even 5mm is more then you want.

 

[kapusta]

That at may work in some cases, it depends on how far forward you want to move the bar; stems generally come in 10mm increments which can be way too much. Sometimes even 5mm is more then you want.

With 10 mm increments, you are never more than 5mm from your "optimum" fit (which usually is a range greater than 10mm, anyway), and I am highly dubious of anyone that claims to be able to detect a 5 mm difference in stem length. Heck most people would be hard pressed to notice a 10 mm difference.

And if they are that sensitive about 5mm, they are going to loose their minds trying to find a bar that fits right.

 

[djjohnr]

With 10 mm increments, you are never more than 5mm from your "optimum" fit (which usually is a range greater than 10mm, anyway), and I am highly dubious of anyone that claims to be able to detect a 5 mm difference in stem length. Heck most people would be hard pressed to notice a 10 mm difference.

And if they are that sensitive about 5mm, they are going to loose their minds trying to find a bar that fits right.

5mm is huge to me. If you don't have the skills to feel that difference...well, that's on you.