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Ridin' dirty!
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2,284 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While working from home last year and surfing the web a lot more than usual, I came across a review of a cheap fat bike on YouTube (Mongoose ALX). Went ahead and searched the web to learn more about fatbikes and found a bunch of videos of how much fun they are and what not. Figured I could give it a try, but didn't want to spend a lot in case I didn't like it. But as everything then and now, most places where and are still out. Was stoked to get a notification e-mail from Framed bikes only a few days after I looked at the Minnesota.
Bought it, received it within mere days. (To Georgia!) and was pretty surprised about the quality at this price point.
Took a little getting used to it, played with tire pressures a lot.
It was getting more attention than any of my other bikes. Which sucked.
Started upgrading, realized that 100bsa bb 135/170qr drop outs are pretty much obsolete standards. So is the non tapered headset. This really sucked!
Scored 2 NOS Ringle' Mulefut rear wheels and a Carver front hub. Rebuilt the front wheel, Carver hub flanges are the same as the Ringle' rear hub, was able to re-lace using the same spokes.
Looked for new tires. Wanted to go tubeless. Only place that had Schwalbe Jumbo Jims in stock was in Great Britain…this sucked!
After an almost year long journey, everything on the bike has been upgraded, only thing that's stock is the frame and fork.
Well, I find myself always using an excuse to ride it….thinking like "that trail has a 2mile gravel road climb, maybe I should take the fatty" or "It's just a quick 15mile ride after work, maybe I should take the fatty".
Yeah, this really sucks!

Here she is in all of her glory. She weighs in a little over 28lbs. with parts focused on strength not weight.
Excuse the dirt, I mostly just maintain the driveline and only clean the whole bike like every couple of months or so….




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Ridin' dirty!
Joined
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2,284 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Measure the I.D. of the head tube... 44mm and you can taper fork the bike all day long.7
That's what I thought too, but the head tube has this hourglass type shape which might prevent it.
Also, it might be too slack with a suspension fork.
Next one will probably be a lightweight built with suspension.

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Rippin da fAt
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11,871 Posts
That's what I thought too, but the head tube has this hourglass type shape which might prevent it.
Also, it might be too slack with a suspension fork.
Next one will probably be a lightweight built with suspension.

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Look into the correct headset for 44mm head tube/taper steer. External lower and internal upper. Stop into a bike shop and have a look at a taper steer fork to get fitment sorted. Again, all is based upon 44mm head tube internal measurement.
As for becoming too slack, that shouldn't be much of an issue with a 100mm or 120mm travel fork. Frankly, it might slacken by 1-1.5 degrees which may bring the bike to life over the original configuration in terms of ride feel, quality and playfulness. That is due to the longer axle to crown of a squishy fork vs. rigid. Rigid forks are typically 470-490mm axle to crown and the squishy will be 525-540mm. BB clearance is a bonus! Raise that Jeep so you can go rock crawling without the AAA being on standby!!
 
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