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Hail Satin!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It does and incredible job of stiffening the rear of my frame. BUT! For the love of Jibbers Crabst. WHY DID YOU POINT THE MOUNTING PATH DOWNWARDS. SO THE TENSION OF THE CHAIN WILL WORK AGAINST MOUNTING IT?
What's next. Spring assisted condom removal?
 

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Hail Satin!
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248 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's simple. I get the hole in the frame lined up with the hole in the hub, and blammo. The derailleur spits the wheel back out. If you are working on the ground you pick the whole damn bike up trying to over come the spring tension. If you are working on a bike stand the pressure needed to hold the wheel in place, will overcome the ancient lockdown mechanism of said work stand. And blammo! bike spins in the stand and both knocks your coffee and tiny bolts across the garage floor.
Yeah I guess I could flip the bike over so the saddle and bars are on the ground. But what am I a caveman? Dirty saddle indeed.
The "droop out" shouldn't be pointing down. It should be at a kinda angle. So the derailleur can hold it in place.
 

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There is thing called a box. I get a lot of them from amazon. Once in a while I flatten one and use it to protect my saddle on the garage floor.


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It's simple. I get the hole in the frame lined up with the hole in the hub, and blammo. The derailleur spits the wheel back out. If you are working on the ground you pick the whole damn bike up trying to over come the spring tension. If you are working on a bike stand the pressure needed to hold the wheel in place, will overcome the ancient lockdown mechanism of said work stand. And blammo! bike spins in the stand and both knocks your coffee and tiny bolts across the garage floor.
Yeah I guess I could flip the bike over so the saddle and bars are on the ground. But what am I a caveman? Dirty saddle indeed.
The "droop out" shouldn't be pointing down. It should be at a kinda angle. So the derailleur can hold it in place.
Sounds like your just a special kind of stupid. And just can't put smart it.

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I'm closing my eyes trying to figure out why the through axle is more challenging than the QR and properly seating the axle in the dropouts.

Okay, I give up. My eyes are open again. I suppose I get what he is saying about the chain wanting the pull the wheel forward, but I'm pretty sure the slot facing forward with a QR system also allows the wheel to move forward.

If you have a SRAM derailleur, are you using the lock feature?
 

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EAT MORE GRIME
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for the life if me I am trying to figure out what kind of wrong is being done here, 'cuz all my bike rear ends are a friggin breeze to work on. 10mm and 12mm super super easy and fast rear wheel removal and mounting.

OP, what the ever-living chicken biscuit ??
 

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Turn off the derailleur clutch & try again? IF Sram rear der. extend cage & use the built in lock to hold it out until wheel is installed.
 

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for the life if me I am trying to figure out what kind of wrong is being done here, 'cuz all my bike rear ends are a friggin breeze to work on. 10mm and 12mm super super easy and fast rear wheel removal and mounting.

OP, what the ever-living chicken biscuit ??
Agreed. But in addition to advise in post #9, you can minimize chain tension by removing chain from chain ring and gently placing on the small space on the end of BB.

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It's simple. I get the hole in the frame lined up with the hole in the hub, and blammo. The derailleur spits the wheel back out.
Chewy, have you tried doing this in the longest gear? I find it easiest to have the derailleur set for the smallest cassette cog (9, 10, or 11 T, depending on your cassette).

As others have mentioned, ensure that a Sram derailleur is using the cage lock function to eliminate chain tension, and a Shimano derailleur has the clutch in the Off position.

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Hail Satin!
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248 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well at least the old quick release gave you little nubs (the little black turney thing and the release handle) to pull up on. Just seems like there should be a simpler solution. I almost (almost) long for the days of singlespeed dropouts.
 

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Well at least the old quick release gave you little nubs (the little black turney thing and the release handle) to pull up on. Just seems like there should be a simpler solution. I almost (almost) long for the days of singlespeed dropouts.
Take a photo, because nobody knows what you're talking about.

I just put the wheel in the bike, side the axle in, spin it around, lock it down. I have done this in a stand, with the bike upright (on the trail repair), and upside down on the past ten days without issue.

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Same, I just pull the wheel into the dropouts, hold the wheel with one and thread the thru axle with the other, this while using the stand. On the trail I don't need to hold the wheel, I just let the frame's weight hold the wheel in place.
 

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Had my rear wheel removed yesterday and it was an easy install.

I think operator error?
I had the SRAM cage locked forward to allow chain slack, but I had no issues even lining p the axle threaded end with the thread insert on the drive size.
 

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aka bOb
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I agree with the OP!! I would like the slot for the rear hub to aim up and back. Maybe then when I case a jump instead of sending me out the front door it will shear the axle and send my rear wheel out the back door saving me from utter physical destruction.
 

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EAT MORE GRIME
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There are at least 2 of us who had to read this about twice the number of half the total times we together had to read this
 
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