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smell my finger
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Who lubes their Switch's main pivot? I see there is a grease fitting on the bottom of the main pivot on my 2004 Switch. The swing arm pivots on 2 plastic bushings. What type of lube should be used? I don't think automotive grease is the right thing to do. Obviously whatever is to be used must be readily available for grease guns, hense the fitting. I guess I could take the pivot apart and use something like Judy Butter, but there has to be a better way. Thanks -- Joe
 

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smell my finger
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey, thanks for the recent replies. The reason I ask is because I notice a creak every now and then and think it's getting a little dry. Another thing, what are your experiences with seat post length? How much exposed seat post over the shock is too much? The shock doesn't seem to move up and down too much, but I know there will be a clearance problem at some point. Before I go tearing the shock out and removing the spring..... just thought I'd ask first.
 

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In my experience you can't have ANY post sticking out if you're bottoming out the suspension. You can probably have about an inch of post sticking out without hitting the shock but the real danger is that the actual frame bar just clears the frames when the shock bottoms out. If there's any post sticking out when you bottom then the frame will hit. I'm talking about the end of the top bar hitting...atleast this is how it is with my 2005 Switch.
 

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The 2006 is a complete redesign so it makes sense that it would be difference with regards to both the grease port and the clearance. I think the 06's use a different type of bearings which explains the lack of the grease nipple.

Anyways, joemamad, check if your frame will hit the seatpost, take the coil off your shock (or ditch the PSI if you have an airshock) and bottom out the suspension. With my 2005 Switch SL the rear triangle passes just millimetes under the seatpost frame tube when the suspension bottoms out...it's not the shock that hits but rather it's frame on seatpost.
 

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smell my finger
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290 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I just cut off a little more of my new seatpost off so it will not be too long. I didn't even think that the seatstay yoke area would be the clearance problem. Thanks for the eye-opener. Funny thing is my mechanic at work and I were just talking about the plastic bushings and replacing them with needle bearings. He is a former motorcycle mechanic. I wonder if there are standard sized caged needle bearings for this fit. I think the nylon bushings are made by Igus. I have been contacting this manufacturer looking for bushings for my old Schwinn. I could probably find out the size of the bushings, this is the hard part for me because I don't own calipers and measuring such small things exactly is difficult. I guess if the noise gets too bad I'll just have to take her apart for the first time.

The '06 Switches look awesome! 7" front and rear and burlier too. Well I just picked up my '04 2 months ago so it's my "new" ride, I'll have wait to upgrde.
 

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This is my seatpost (below) but since this pic I cut it on an angle so it matches the angle of the frame tube. I think even this would hit the post if I bottomed it out hard. One idea (that is probably a bad one) is to swap in a 7.875x2.0 shock instead of a 7.5x2.0 which would prevent the frame from hitting but it would do some tweaking to your wheelbase and ride height. I imagine RM designed it so that the rear triangle would stop before the post but I think they just cut it a smidge too close so when you bottom out hard and things like frame flex become a factor then they end up hitting. I wasn't aware of this until I noticed a tiny scuff in the paint on the rear triangle and then I put two and two together.

A better idea is to buy one of those titec telescoping seatposts or just put a clamp around your seatpost so you don't have to cut it all the way down because you'll know not to slam it down too far.

 
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