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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got a 98 trek Y5 to do some cross country and trailriding. It is near mint and hasn't had much trail use. I have been reading that the front fork that came on the bike sucks (manitou spyder R). I will not be doing any riding heavier than the occasional 6' drop, mostly just trail riding and morning rides. I want to know what the best bang for my buck would be for a new fork. I would like 100mm of travel and also need to have posts for the cantilever brakes, although I would like to swap to discs later. I really would rather not spend more than about 200-250 US $ since it will be installed on such an old bike. I also don't mind getting something used off ebay (don't worry my ebay buying skills are top notch). Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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All 26.5" all the time!
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A closeout 2006 Marzocchi MX Comp is your best bet. 85/100/120mm travel options are available.

Your Y5 came with a 70mm travel fork, so going to 100mm will slow the steering and might make the front end wander while climbing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK so I really want to stay with no more than 85mm for the geometry of the bike. But I would like the 100MM of travel for some hard hits. The MX comp looks like a good fork but I would spend the extra for the MX Pro ETA if it would do what I want. I am under the impression that the ETA will lower the front of the bike for climbing. Is this correct and would this fork work better for me or should I just save the extra money and get the MX Comp?
 

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All 26.5" all the time!
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The MX Pro gets an external rebound adjuster, as well as travel adjust and ETA. All that stuff is nice to have, so if you're willing to pay the extra cash, go for it.
 

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It's the Trek Y5

Hi,

I also have the 1998 Trek Y5, I am the original owner, so yes I have had this bike for almost 10 years.

I have heavily upgraded this bike, and let me tell you, you may think it's old, but man do I love to see this "old" machine blow away many many of the new machines in its class.

I run 100 MM in the front, and the difference is incredible, please do not get discouraged by other people telling you about quirks they "think" will happen if you use 100MM, because it is not true.
As a matter of fact, I'm considering going for the full 130 MM that my front fork is capable of. My fork is a Rock Shock 318 Tora, you can see the review here at mtb.com, and you will see the high score for this low priced fork. I recommend you this fork with my eyes closed.

With 100MM your handling, feel for the road, are greatly enhanced, also your back will feel the difference too. For an ever further enhanced experience, I recommend you switch to a rised handel bar. With this combination, you will be instantly capable of raising the front of your bike higher with much great ease, and so you will be able to jump higher, go up straiways with minimal effort, and control your down hill descents with a sports car like precision.
I'm sure someone will want to point it out, so I will say it instead, on uphills just make sure you lean forward across the handelbar, since your front will be higher with this setup, this will make it easier for the front wheel to perhaps lose traction, so just keep this in mind and you'll be fine when you are going uphill.

Actually, just 5 days ago I changed out my original Fox Vanilla rear shock with the 2008 Fox RP23 rear shock.
Let me tell you and everyone in the entire world, all those complaints about the Y bikes having heavy "bob" issues?, with this rear shock are simply, "NON-EXISTANT".
Critics have no more valid claims, so much that Trek should really consider briging back the new generation of Y bikes, because these bikes are truely incredible.

Well, I'm getting off the topic here, going back now. With this new rear shock, on the uphills you just click on the pro-pedal level 3 function, lockout your front fork with the remote, and just like magic, bob is gone for ever!, your Y5 turns into a super effcient machine, more efficient than a Hardtrail Voodoo or than a 8500 Trek hardtrail.
It's just amazing.

Get to the top, flip down the gravity dropper seat from the remote, turn off the fork lockout and turn off the Fox RP23 pro-pedal setting, and again just like magic, you have a mean DH machine ready for even the steepest of the hills, big jumps ( 12 feet or less )!

And yes, I am talking about a 10 year old Bike, get it everyone??

If anyone says anything about the age of the bike, the only and only place where it shows it, is on the rear link. You can't install a rear disc break. Atleast not without an adaptor, which I would not recommend really. The V-brake XTR do a pretty darn good job, and if you really want disc, you can install front disc and rear V. This setup would be still better than having a rear adaptor, I'm just not a fan of having such an essetial part of the bike not being attached directly on the bike frame.

Well, I think I'll post a picture later on of my bike, so you can see it.

Cheers! and make no mistake, you have an amzing bike on your hands!! It's a dimond on the rough, never get rid of it.
 

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