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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm tired of the 20 minute drive to my lbs just to have adjustments made that I could do myself if I owned the right tools, so I'm buying things as I need them. (I just ordered an ultimate stand and have a few other essentials that I've picked up along the way) My '03 Jekyll has the shimano 4-taper bottom bracket and I also own a '98 F400 (not sure what the bb is, but it's probably a shimano as well). What tool would do the job for me here?
Any suggestions on what to be careful of when tightening/adjusting a bb would also be helpful - I know this can be a sensitive area that can be screwed up easily.-
Thanks

Tate
 

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Park BBT-2 works on most cartridge bottom brackets, square or splined.

Do a dry fit first, only using your hands. Lubricate the threads with a light oil and screw it in just to ensure everything is smooth, nothing damaged.

Once you're satisfied, use anti-sieze on the bottom bracket shell threads. Optionally, wrap a couple wraps of teflon pipe thread tape around the cartridge threads. Carefully thread everything in start it by hand until you're sure it's threading properly. To finish it off, torque first the flanged side, then the adapter side, to 50 ft-lbs.

I personally subscribe to the "lube the tapers" theory and coat mine in anti-sieze prior to torquing the crank arms to 35 ft-lbs.

The torque wrench isn't absoultely required, but for $20 for a Craftsman beam wrench from Sears, I believe every tool box has room for one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks

Thanks for the technical info. I'll add the torque wrench to my list - it sounds like it will come in handy for some other jobs as well.
 

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chasing BB threads?

Along those same lines, is there an inexpensive tap for chasing the BB threads? Since I don't plan on cutting the threads myself, I'd like to get away with something simpler and cheaper than the Park unit.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Speed�b Nate said:
Park BBT-2 works on most cartridge bottom brackets, square or splined.

Do a dry fit first, only using your hands. Lubricate the threads with a light oil and screw it in just to ensure everything is smooth, nothing damaged.

Once you're satisfied, use anti-sieze on the bottom bracket shell threads. Optionally, wrap a couple wraps of teflon pipe thread tape around the cartridge threads. Carefully thread everything in start it by hand until you're sure it's threading properly. To finish it off, torque first the flanged side, then the adapter side, to 50 ft-lbs.

I personally subscribe to the "lube the tapers" theory and coat mine in anti-sieze prior to torquing the crank arms to 35 ft-lbs.

The torque wrench isn't absoultely required, but for $20 for a Craftsman beam wrench from Sears, I believe every tool box has room for one.
 
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