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Redcoat
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I posted this in Brake time but no luck yet and i normally get better answers by the posters here...

Any who, Magura MT2 with BAT- I've just performed a bleed. I went to pump the brake once it was all back together, and then fluid started pouring out everywhere! I took off the lever completely and started to pump it again and i found there's a hole where the leaver connects to the handlebar, and when i pump the lever it bubbles and secretes oil. see pics below:

Not sure what to do next? Its definitely not leaking from any of the bleed screws, just the hole depicted below. The whole is supposed to be there so it must be leaking internally? Any help will be very much appreciated!





After i cleaned it:



cheers
 

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I would guess that you probably pushed the reservoir out of place when you finished the bleed so the fluid is getting out of the reservoir into the leaver body. This could happen in a few places, the master cylinder, the bleed port or the hose. I would guess the bleed port though since it is only coming out of the hole under the clamp. I am not super familiar with Magura brakes so not to sure how to go about fixing it. brakes are pretty easy just time consuming, and as soon as you sart pulling them apart I would recommend replacing all the seals (o-rings).
 

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Redcoat
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Well after looking closer here it is! A lovely crack in it.


Magura say it's from over tightening which should be 3 nm I did it to 4 so technically my fault but seriously 3 nm? That's hardly enough if at all to stop the lever moving on the bar. Lesson learned I guess.

Have had to order a new one at my expense. Found a good deal which actually included the caliper too. $72. Couldn't find just the lever and magura wanted 82 bucks for just a Lever.

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Redcoat
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Seen this before. The build quality on these magura brakes is so shockingly bad, I can't believe bike companies keep speccing them. I guess they're cheap and light.

- joel
What magura said...
"The alloy that the clamp nuts are made from is a lightweight alloy, it makes more sense to have your brake lever not extremely tight anyways, because if you happen to go down in a crash, it would be easier on the brake system to be able to move on the handlebars to save from damage. I am not saying loose, but at 2Nm, I guarantee you that it will stay in spot, and you will be able to pick the bike up by the brake levers with out them moving.

Other components are different than ours because our master cylinders are carbon, not alloy like you will see nearly everywhere else. That is why you can run our entry level brake, and still be just as light if not lighter than the competition, also the reason for having a carbotecture bleed screw over steel/ alloy (you physically cannot thread steel or alloy into carbon while keeping the threads clean).

My recommendation, and I think you will find it useful - don't use the torque wrench, snug the clamp nuts up by walking them back and forth. Tighten the top a few turns, than go to the bottom, back and forth. This will align the clamp evenly. As mentioned earlier, just snug them enough to where you can pick the bike up by the levers without them moving - they will stay put on a ride, trust me! With the bleed screw, just make sure it is about finger tight, and then maybe go another 1/8 of a turn of so. You are dealing with lightweight parts, not some big bulky chunk of metal! Just keep this in mind.

You mention brake strength as well, put these stoppers up against any other brakes on the market, and I promise you won't be disappointed, you are getting the best of both worlds with the MT brakes, super lightweight, and insanely powerful, all built in with the best modulation on the market."

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Just found cracks in the same area on my MTs's in the same area. Brakes are clamped to carbon bars and never tightened beyond a normal torque. How about the stress of hard braking over time, or the levers hitting something on the trails????

Mine are just a few months old with a couple of dozen rides.

They are for Mountain Bikes ... right ?
 

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Their advice to only tighten enough to be solid for normal usage, but still allow movement in the event of a crash is spot on. However, if over-tightening by a slight amount results in destroying the lever then I think you've just talked me out of ever considering running Magura brakes on my bike.
 

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Redcoat
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just found cracks in the same area on my MTs's in the same area. Brakes are clamped to carbon bars and never tightened beyond a normal torque. How about the stress of hard braking over time, or the levers hitting something on the trails????

Mine are just a few months old with a couple of dozen rides.

They are for Mountain Bikes ... right ?
was the same in my case, clamped to carbon bars. 3 rides old.i cant be sure but im thinking the cracks came from general use not the tightening theres no way 4-5nm could do that if they are built how they are supposed to be.

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