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Raupe Nimmersatt
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there everybody!

I´m planning to switch the wheelset on my Mojo SL from a DT 240s/Comp/5.1D to a combination of tune hubs with NoTubes rims.

Do any of you have experience with riding the NoTubes "Arch" rims with 2.35 or 2.4 tires like Fat Albert or Mountain King?


I´d been checking out the NoTubes-homepage initially and thought that the "Flow" would be best for me since I ride 2.35 / 2.4 tires. On the other hand a professional wheelset builder (where I want to buy it) has recommended me to use the "Arch" instead. It would again save a considerable amount of weight and be just as stiff - simply a bit smaller - considering my own body weight of 70kg.
When I checked the Mojo-galleries here in order to see what kind of rims other people were using it seemed to me that most would use the "Flow".
19mm rims like the "Arch" were mostly from other manufacturers.
I don´t really want to "downgrade" to 2.25 tires in the future so I wonder if it would make any sense to ride those 19mm rims with fat tires.

Glad if some of you could give me a little input. Greetings!
 

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flow where ever you go
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I run the Stans 355 rim which is the same as the Arch but without the extra wall (if I'm remembering correctly). It loves 2.35/2.4 tires. No problem. I would go with the Arch myself. I've had NO problems with the 355 but the added strength with minimal weight gain seems worth it. I would only go with the Flow rim for regular use of 2.5+ tires.
 

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Raupe Nimmersatt
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cool, that would mean I could easily have a wheel set that´s around 300gr lighter than the DT wheels. Not that they´re bad though... Another step in building my perfect Mojo :cool:
At what pressures do you ride your tires?
 

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Why do you want to switch? If you are a 2.35-2.4 tire man the DT 5.1Ds are fantastic and give your tires just the right shape and space for maximum grip. I have got the same wheels and i am extremely happy with them. Just curious why you want to change. Is it just weight?
 

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I run narrower rims similar to the Arch (mine are XTR) with 2.35 Nevegal tires and the tires do roll a bit at lower pressures. Anything lower than 30psi and they get too sketchy on tight/fast turns for my taste (I'm 165lbs). But I like the lower rolling weight of narrower rim, and ~30-32 psi is fine for me, so I'm sticking with them for now.
 

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Raupe Nimmersatt
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The why is a good question. I´m also satisfied with the wheels in general but on the other hand I´m trying to improve the bike and I´d really like to have a lighter set of wheels. ~300gr will make a difference - from 1791gr to a projected 1470gr. Since I usually run the wheels at a little below 2bar (about 40psi) there shouldn´t be too much of a problem.
Of course it remains arguable if the operation itself is justified and necessary but then why even get a Mojo SL in the first place...;)

In any case I´m gonna keep the DT wheels so I can use them when needed.
 

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upupandaway said:
Of course it remains arguable if the operation itself is justified and necessary but then why even get a Mojo SL in the first place...;)

In any case I´m gonna keep the DT wheels so I can use them when needed.
Well there is no discussion about the Mojo SL, it is the best bike frame out there. And if it is not the very best it is the best looking bike frame ;) .

The 240s/5.1d wheels with 2.35 tires are great for winter conditions like we have up here in Scandinavia; wet, muddy and slippery. Those are very forgiving aggressive wheels. Of course for longer distances and less technical trails lighter wheels are preferable. A set of 240s/4.2ds would be nice. :thumbsup:
 

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Raupe Nimmersatt
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
SvenW said:
The 240s/5.1d wheels with 2.35 tires are great for winter conditions like we have up here in Scandinavia; wet, muddy and slippery.
Yep, that´s what I´ll keep them for. Or maybe for an alpine summer holiday. They originally came from another bike.

SvenW said:
Those are very forgiving aggressive wheels. Of course for longer distances and less technical trails lighter wheels are preferable. A set of 240s/4.2ds would be nice. :thumbsup:
I have those as well and i must agree that they´re good wheels. Still, don´t think that I need all the forgiveness that the 5.1s can offer. Not with the Mojo - possibly with the next bike I´m gonna build.
 

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Raupe Nimmersatt
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It´s been a while, but I´ve made my choice:
Last week, I ordered a custom wheelset made up of Acros A-Hub.74, DT-Aerolite spokes and ZTR Arch rims.
The DT wheels have seen some serious testing in the alps this year and I think a second and 200g lighter wheelsset does indeed make sense (while not being really lightweight but still suited for AM riding). Currently riding 2.35 Maxxis Minion and High Roller.
Total weight is 1550g - I´m really looking forward to the delivery. :D
 

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DWlink Fanboy
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enjoy the wheels!

I have been running 2.25" MotoRaptors on my ZTR Arch wheels for about a year now. The rims are really strong. But I'm pretty light - 62kgs. However, I do ride through alot of rough rocks, and I'm very impressed with how the rims have held up. I'm about to switch to 2.35 Nevegals, though. So unlike yourself, I'm upping the rolling weight on my wheels, but I think it will be worth it.

Albert
 

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I don't personally consider 50g per wheel a "considerable amount of weight" but that's the difference between the Arch and the Flow in 32h. For reference, I've run a Fire XC in 2.1 on Flows in the rear, and it was well worth the trade off in weight and reduced overall rotating mass. The Flow is plenty stiff but not harsh. (of course, I'm using plain old steel spokes, not aluminum) I've had no problems with seating or rim damage, as they don't stick out... the rubber still protects adequately.
 

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upupandaway said:
Since I usually run the wheels at a little below 2bar (about 40psi) there shouldn´t be too much of a problem.
Of course it remains arguable if the operation itself is justified and necessary but then why even get a Mojo SL in the first place...;)

In any case I´m gonna keep the DT wheels so I can use them when needed.
UpUp, are you running your wheels tubeless? If not, you should try it immediately, and drop your pressure.... you'll be amazed at the improvement in ride quality, traction, cornering speed. We weigh the same, and I run 2.35 Nevegals, Rampages, or various 2.3 Continentals, with 25-26 psi front & 29-30 rear..... very plush, and enough pressure to avoid rim damage in extremely rocky conditions. This is on 24mm wide rims.
 

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Raupe Nimmersatt
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
CrankMother said:
I don't personally consider 50g per wheel a "considerable amount of weight" but that's the difference between the Arch and the Flow in 32h. For reference, I've run a Fire XC in 2.1 on Flows in the rear, and it was well worth the trade off in weight and reduced overall rotating mass. The Flow is plenty stiff but not harsh. (of course, I'm using plain old steel spokes, not aluminum) I've had no problems with seating or rim damage, as they don't stick out... the rubber still protects adequately.
What kind of riding do you do with this kind of combination?
It may certainly work well this way, also in respect to the protection of the rims. I do prefer to ride at least on 2.35 tires for better control in combination with a relatively low pressure. The Maxxis 2.35 resemble more the 2.25 Nobby Nics I have on another bike and they´re doing great so far, but in order to have good traction - not any smaller, even in the rear.
For weight loss and for keeping the target range of the bike, I personally wouldn´t want to put a smaller tire on my rims. 100g per wheel is of course not unprecendented (mainly because I opted for more durable hubs than the tune), but otherwise it would be weight saved in the wrong place, because I´m not aiming for an absolute lowest weight of the bike.
Anyway, can there be a Mojo that is no fun? ;)
 

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Raupe Nimmersatt
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
newenglandrocks said:
I have been running 2.25" MotoRaptors on my ZTR Arch wheels for about a year now. The rims are really strong. But I'm pretty light - 62kgs. However, I do ride through alot of rough rocks, and I'm very impressed with how the rims have held up. I'm about to switch to 2.35 Nevegals, though. So unlike yourself, I'm upping the rolling weight on my wheels, but I think it will be worth it.

Albert
Hi,

one strange but cool thing I noticed was, that after switching to the 60a 2.35 Maxxis from 2.35 Fat Alberts I found that I had much more control over the bike at the front. The profile is a bit more aggressive and their slight difference in size has been no setback so far. I´m thinking about switching again to another Minion in the rear though, because in some situations I seemed that traction with the High Roller on wet ground was sometimes reduced (not in turns but when pedaling uphill in difficult terrain for example).

Martin
 

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upupandaway said:
What kind of riding do you do with this kind of combination?
XC to light DH in the Rocky Mountains... I have to say light, because a 140mm bike just isn't capable of plowing through boulder fields at speed. (at least not with me at the helm) I do enjoy pushing the limits of the Mojo just to find the edge of the envelope but I try to be realistic too. 18' gaps and no drops over 6', ladders, skinnies, and I love picking my way down gnarly non-trails. I always look for the hardest line just to better my abilities and the tires and the bike handle it well. (can't say I do every time though, I've been humbled by more OTB's than I care to remember)

I do run a 2.4 up front, however. I'm like Imelda Marcos, but with bike tires instead of shoes. Having tried so many over the years, I still love the traction, light weight, durability, and the price of the Fire XC's AND they play well with Stans. As with anything, there's trade-offs but for where/how I ride, they strike a very good balance.

Since this is about wheelsets, my Flows are laced to Kings and they inspire much more confidence than the flimsy XC set that I originally had on there. The bike really is capable of far more aggressive stuff than you would expect, that is, if you were to judge it's capabilities by the way people have been building them. I think 70% of Mojo owners should have just waited for the carbon Blur to come out. It seems to better suit what they intend to ride.
 

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Raupe Nimmersatt
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
CrankMother said:
XC to light DH in the Rocky Mountains... I have to say light, because a 140mm bike just isn't capable of plowing through boulder fields at speed. (at least not with me at the helm) I do enjoy pushing the limits of the Mojo just to find the edge of the envelope but I try to be realistic too. 18' gaps and no drops over 6', ladders, skinnies, and I love picking my way down gnarly non-trails. I always look for the hardest line just to better my abilities and the tires and the bike handle it well. (can't say I do every time though, I've been humbled by more OTB's than I care to remember)

I do run a 2.4 up front, however. I'm like Imelda Marcos, but with bike tires instead of shoes. Having tried so many over the years, I still love the traction, light weight, durability, and the price of the Fire XC's AND they play well with Stans. As with anything, there's trade-offs but for where/how I ride, they strike a very good balance.

Since this is about wheelsets, my Flows are laced to Kings and they inspire much more confidence than the flimsy XC set that I originally had on there. The bike really is capable of far more aggressive stuff than you would expect, that is, if you were to judge it's capabilities by the way people have been building them. I think 70% of Mojo owners should have just waited for the carbon Blur to come out. It seems to better suit what they intend to ride.
Interesting. I´ve read of the Blur once in a magazine, but have no actual knowledge of its characteristics. You may be right - there is a good number of builds that point very much into a marathon direction while the Mojo is more fun the more technical it gets. I´ve also been doing some small drops and what you refer to as non-trails and while you can easily get somewhere around the bike´s limit as a whole while it´s still fast and feels very good. If it is that you can´t plow over everything in your path, the agility of the Mojo has you waltz your way through.

Already with drops like this I´m not sure if I´d like to go with a bike as light as the Mojo. The one´s the Mojo´s seen are not much lower though. Thought about using it but ended up with a freerider for that day.


I reweighed the DT-wheels and the difference in weight is even a bit bigger. 1830 vs. 1540 gr. with tape. The DT whels will certainly be used in the future. On rugged alpine trails they, as well as the Flow, provide more stability. The Arch are probably gonna feel more like the DT 4.2D from my other bike I had tried on the Mojo once. But still - on such a tour I´d certainly go for a bigger wheel at the rear. Doesn´t really suit my personal imagination of the Mojo as you refer to a balance. ;)

What does your build look like?
 

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Raupe Nimmersatt
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63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
doismellbacon said:
UpUp, are you running your wheels tubeless? If not, you should try it immediately, and drop your pressure.... you'll be amazed at the improvement in ride quality, traction, cornering speed. We weigh the same, and I run 2.35 Nevegals, Rampages, or various 2.3 Continentals, with 25-26 psi front & 29-30 rear..... very plush, and enough pressure to avoid rim damage in extremely rocky conditions. This is on 24mm wide rims.
Hi,
thanks for the hint. I already changed this in the alps during the summer. Now I´m riding stronger tubes on 1.5bar (~35psi). You´re absolutely right about this.
 

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upupandaway said:
Interesting. I´ve read of the Blur once in a magazine, but have no actual knowledge of its characteristics. You may be right - there is a good number of builds that point very much into a marathon direction while the Mojo is more fun the more technical it gets. I´ve also been doing some small drops and what you refer to as non-trails and while you can easily get somewhere around the bike´s limit as a whole while it´s still fast and feels very good. If it is that you can´t plow over everything in your path, the agility of the Mojo has you waltz your way through.

snip

What does your build look like?
I'm supposing a picture is what you want but until I can get one, here's a list of components: (some that you normally don't see on a Mojo)

1x9 w/ 34t (removed front shifter and derailleur)
Talas 32 150mm (thru axle)
Sunline V1 50mm stem
Wellgo MG-1 flats (though, I'm looking to go to a thinner design, even if they're heavier)
Fox RPL shock (originally had the RP23, I prefer the RPL but I can't get it Push'ed)
e.thirteen chainguide
Kings/Flows w/ 2.1 Fire XC rear, 2.4 Mutanoraptor front
Gore Ride On cables
XTR drivetrain rear w long cage (tried a Saint short cage but may have had chain too short, as it binded and I haven't had time to get another chain to try)
Magura Marta brakes w different rotors (180mm/160mm) these have wider contact area and not only feel better and are stronger, they don't wear out my pads nearly as quickly. They don't give me any fading issues with my weight. (72kg)
Ritchey bar, Control Tech post, plain old Oury grips
Matte clear Large SL frame
 
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