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NOTE - Warning blatant 700c content.
I've been planning a new wheelbuild for a Ti road bike I picked up over Christmas. After hassling Bianchi4me about rims and spokes over several phone calls I placed an order and began plotting for a spare 4 hours to build up the wheels. Fortune came this afternoon when the wife picked up a copy of the DaVinci Code and the kid visited a family friend. First I consulted the dog-eared guides I had used in the past.
<img src=https://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/builddirections.jpg>
Next I started prepping out my tools on the kitchen island (Mike T. you'll appreciate the glob of anti-sieze). I'm a pretty simple guy so I use a couple of old spokes to put the nipples in the rim. A stripped q-tip works to apply the anti-sieze to the threads. Finally a stanley screwdriver does the job to turn the nipples.
<img src=https://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/buildtools.jpg>
Not sure if anyone else does this but I typically mark my spoke holes to help guide the build. I have gotten to the point where I really don't need to do this anymore but it gives me a little added security against mistakes. They talk about this in the Barnett's manual.
<img src=https://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/markingwheels.jpg>
Everything starts going together once I figure out the key spoke. The Corian countertop holds up pretty well to this kind of abuse (good thing Mrs. Steve-O is in the other room).
<img src=https://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/build1.jpg>
Now things are coming together. The front wheel is a Hugi 240 with Wheelsmith AE15 bladed spokes laced 2x.
<img src=https://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/build3.jpg>
The rear hub is a Hugi 240 with the AE15's 2x on the NDS and Wheelsmith DB14's 3x on the DS. My wife passes though about this point and sees the wheels prior to being tensioned and comments on how funky they look...
<img src=https://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/build4.jpg>
The finished product after getting trued and tensioned. Gotta love the Airborne Ti skewers. Not bad for $15...
<img src=https://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/build5.jpg>
Here's the rear where you can see the 2x / 3x pattern. This seems to make the tension a little more balanced...
<img src=https://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/build6.jpg>
The finished product ready for a spin!
<img src=https://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/Guru.jpg>
Here's the specs:
Hubs: Hugi 240 28h front, 32h rear
Rims: Velocity Aerohead front, Fusion rear (no stickers for the stealth look)
spokes: Wheelsmith AE15's, DB14's
nipples: Sapim aluminum
Estimated weight on our crappy, non-digital kitchen scale. Front wheel no skewer 750 grams, Rear wheel no skewer 1000 grams.
Thanks for viewing....
I've been planning a new wheelbuild for a Ti road bike I picked up over Christmas. After hassling Bianchi4me about rims and spokes over several phone calls I placed an order and began plotting for a spare 4 hours to build up the wheels. Fortune came this afternoon when the wife picked up a copy of the DaVinci Code and the kid visited a family friend. First I consulted the dog-eared guides I had used in the past.
<img src=https://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/builddirections.jpg>
Next I started prepping out my tools on the kitchen island (Mike T. you'll appreciate the glob of anti-sieze). I'm a pretty simple guy so I use a couple of old spokes to put the nipples in the rim. A stripped q-tip works to apply the anti-sieze to the threads. Finally a stanley screwdriver does the job to turn the nipples.
<img src=https://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/buildtools.jpg>
Not sure if anyone else does this but I typically mark my spoke holes to help guide the build. I have gotten to the point where I really don't need to do this anymore but it gives me a little added security against mistakes. They talk about this in the Barnett's manual.
<img src=https://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/markingwheels.jpg>
Everything starts going together once I figure out the key spoke. The Corian countertop holds up pretty well to this kind of abuse (good thing Mrs. Steve-O is in the other room).
<img src=https://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/build1.jpg>
Now things are coming together. The front wheel is a Hugi 240 with Wheelsmith AE15 bladed spokes laced 2x.
<img src=https://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/build3.jpg>
The rear hub is a Hugi 240 with the AE15's 2x on the NDS and Wheelsmith DB14's 3x on the DS. My wife passes though about this point and sees the wheels prior to being tensioned and comments on how funky they look...
<img src=https://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/build4.jpg>
The finished product after getting trued and tensioned. Gotta love the Airborne Ti skewers. Not bad for $15...
<img src=https://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/build5.jpg>
Here's the rear where you can see the 2x / 3x pattern. This seems to make the tension a little more balanced...
<img src=https://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/build6.jpg>
The finished product ready for a spin!
<img src=https://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/Guru.jpg>
Here's the specs:
Hubs: Hugi 240 28h front, 32h rear
Rims: Velocity Aerohead front, Fusion rear (no stickers for the stealth look)
spokes: Wheelsmith AE15's, DB14's
nipples: Sapim aluminum
Estimated weight on our crappy, non-digital kitchen scale. Front wheel no skewer 750 grams, Rear wheel no skewer 1000 grams.
Thanks for viewing....