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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2010 Specialized Rockhopper Comp Disc and I would like to upgrade my wheel set. I don't know what the current (Alex RHD) weigh, but if possible, I would like to lose a little weight in the process. Can anyone recommend a few to look at?

I found these, below, through searching this topic - any thoughts on them?

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/WH298A03-Dt+Swiss+X1800+Wheel.aspx

Thanks for any help you can give.

Randy
 

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Check out Bicycle Wheel Warehouse, for upgrades in your price range. They offer hubs (both their proprietary and also nonproprietaryones), rim and spoke alternatives.
 

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You wanna go ridin?
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Check out Hope Pro2s at Chain Reaction Cycles. They have allready built ones or you could do the custom thing. I cyber built a set of Mavic 819s with the Hopes for ~$420. Free shipping also but shipping to US you will be boned by customs fees. I just picked up a $400 fork and got bent over with $52 customs fees.
 

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jeffj said:
You'll have to buy some centerlock rotors for that wheelset from Jensonusa, so that will add to the cost.
Says they're included
-Center-Lock disc brake hub (Includes 6-bolt adapter)
They're a good wheelset...the hubs are basically the Onyx/370 hubs which are quite durable (but not light) and use a steel FH body so you won't have to run an expensive cassette. Standard spokes and rims too...good deal for $263 a set!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
frdfandc said:
They aren't bad. But I found these that are at the top of your price range.

I currently run these and absolutely love them. Only downside is the proprietary hub.

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/WH402A09-Easton+Xc+One+Disc+Wheelset+08.aspx
I like these. Why is the proprietary hub a downside? I'm new to upgrades and bike maintenance, so please forgive the remedial question.

Also, would I need anything special in the way of tools to covert old to new?

Thanks,
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
92gli said:
BWW hubs
BWW, mavic 717 or dt 4.2 rims
dt comp spokes
alloy nipples

Any of those combos will be $400 +/- $20 and about 1600grams. They build very nice wheels. Read up on them.
Thanks for the idea. Which size spoke do I need? There were two listed by the description you listed. If it is a weight support issue, I'm 5'10" and weigh 180 lbs.

thanks
Randy
 

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randy m said:
Thanks for the idea. Which size spoke do I need? There were two listed by the description you listed. If it is a weight support issue, I'm 5'10" and weigh 180 lbs.

thanks
Randy
Make sure to budget in a $100 cassette (might find one on sale for as low as $65) into any wheelset using an alloy freehub body on the rear hub...as the BWW hubs do
 

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randy m said:
Thanks for the idea. Which size spoke do I need? There were two listed by the description you listed. If it is a weight support issue, I'm 5'10" and weigh 180 lbs.

thanks
Randy
Well, I'm about 170 with my gear and all my wheels have 1.8/1.6 spokes and I've never had one fold over on me or anything. I do have to do some minor truing here and there. 2.0/1.8 will give you a marginally stiffer but very slightly heavier wheel. Either way, you'll be knocking a good bit of weight off your bike. If you're in doubt it might be wise to go with the thicker spokes.

As for the cassette, don't be alarmed by mtnbiker72. You CAN run your current cassette on a hub with an aluminum freehub body. It WILL make little gouges in the aluminum from the force of you pedaling. It WILL NOT destroy the freehub body. A better cassette like an XT will make gouges as well but only on the end of the freehub body. A better reason to upgrade your cassette is because it would be like putting ketchup on filet mignon. If you're getting nice wheels a nice cassette should be the next upgrade but you don't need to do it right away. You can get brand new XT cassettes on ebay for about $60 shipped and it will be over 100 grams lighter than the one that came on your bike, maybe more.
 

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Wrong

92gli said:
As for the cassette, don't be alarmed by mtnbiker72. You CAN run your current cassette on a hub with an aluminum freehub body. It WILL make little gouges in the aluminum from the force of you pedaling. It WILL NOT destroy the freehub body.
If you use your current cassette long enough it most certainly WILL destroy your freehub body...I saw many an alloy freehub body ruined by running standard cassettes in my 8 years as a bicycle mechanic...how many years have you been working on them:nono:

This is "minor" damage...I've seen much worse
 

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By the way, those DT wheels are priced very well. They won't be as light as what I suggested but if I was in your shoes I might get those. Your stock wheels are probably 2000 grams, maybe more... you'd still be way ahead.
 

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mtnbiker72 said:
If you use your current cassette long enough it most certainly WILL destroy your freehub body...I saw many an alloy freehub body ruined by running standard cassettes in my 8 years as a bicycle mechanic...how many years have you been working on them:nono:

This is "minor" damage...I've seen much worse
Thanks for waving your finger at me like a child. I appreciate your crusade, we all need something to cling to. Once again you grab the pic off sheldon brown's site but you still haven't explained to anyone how that cassette body is functionally DESTROYED. It may be cosmetically damaged but from what I can see a solid 75% of the width of those splines is intact and still attached to the body, so what again are we talking about ? I have a DT 240 on a friends bike right now that I had an lx cassette on for 4 years. It didn't look that bad (mostly because mine was clean and not filthy for drama's sake), but it was similar. I filed down the gouges and his Xt cassette slid right on. He's been riding it for a few months now on his trainer with no complaints.
 

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92gli said:
Thanks for waving your finger at me like a child. I appreciate your crusade, we all need something to cling to. Once again you grab the pic off sheldon brown's site but you still haven't explained to anyone how that cassette body is functionally DESTROYED. It may be cosmetically damaged but from what I can see a solid 75% of the width of those splines is intact and still attached to the body, so what again are we talking about ? I have a DT 240 on a friends bike right now that I had an lx cassette on for 4 years. It didn't look that bad (mostly because mine was clean and not filthy for drama's sake), but it was similar. I filed down the gouges and his Xt cassette slid right on. He's been riding it for a few months now on his trainer with no complaints.
I wave my finger because you are giving bogus advice. You are giving advice based on ONE experience, not many years of experience with many, many hubs. The photo is a perfectly good example from Sheldon Brown, whom by the way would have (if he were still alive) more experience than almost everyone on MTBR. You are going to run into several problems. First off, getting the cassette off the FH body when it needs to be replaced (BTW-if you had a LX cassette on your bike for 4 years...you don't ride much). Once it digs into the splines, it can be a b!tch to remove. I removed several for customers over the years after they gave up. Continuing to then run the cassette will further cut into the splines until they go thru them thus destroying the FH Body. Yes, you were able to file down the gouges and put the PROPER cassette on and salvage the FH Body. This is what I often did for customers too...it's called corrective action.

But if your so confident that you can run lower cassettes...why don't you remove that XT and put another lower end cassette on and get back to us in four years
:thumbsup:
 

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The Punk Hucker
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mtnbiker, you're paranoid... Before you go through the whole FH body chances are it needs replacement anyways. If it didn't well I bet you got a hell lot of miles out of it so it's no big deal. It's not as if it's a pricey replacement anyways compared to higher end cassettes that get destroyed by chains so much faster...

And to say it's hard to remove a digged in cassette is probably because you don't use that very simple trick : use a rubber mallet, give a quick whack on the cassette in the "freewheeling" direction and it comes out very easily.
 

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randy m said:
I like these. Why is the proprietary hub a downside? I'm new to upgrades and bike maintenance, so please forgive the remedial question.

Also, would I need anything special in the way of tools to covert old to new?

Thanks,
Randy
Proprietary parts - must purchase from the manufacturer direct or from a LBS that sells their product. Just can't stop in any LBS and get replacement parts.

But OTOH, I've had zero issues with the wheels after a full year of use which included some XC racing.
 
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