Forgot to mention that I want to be tubeless. Also I now see there is a wheel forum so maybe I should take this question over there? Of course they may not understand the lefty hub requirement? Let me know if I should take my question elsewhere.
Second.nathanbal said:Crossmax SLR, I9 Ultralite or custom setup with Stans rims (Olympic or 355).
Nope, not at all....I'm 5'10'', 155 with a helmet and camelbak. No such thing as a dumb question...kec123 said:amillmtb - thanks now I'm thoroughly confusedAfter checking out the notubes site I'm now leaning towards the ztr olympic wheelset instead of I9. Curious if you don't mind me asking how much do you weigh? Also somewhat related I noticed on the website them recommending running really low tire pressure. Am I going to feel it wiggling around in the turns running mid to upper 20s? This tubeless thing is new to me so pardon the dumb questions.
Definetly, feel a difference in handling. But I thought the biggest difference was in the acceleration. When you get them, weigh them on an acurite gram scale, then weigh the stock XM117 wheelset. There is a huge difference. That difference is all rotational weight, which can attribute to much faster acceleration. Cutting rotational weight is very important to a good racers bag o tricks. Another thing that I noticed when I made the switch was how easy the wheels spin compaired to the other hubs. The lefty hub was the same because it is the same hub, but the difference between the free ball bearings in the shimano compaired to the carteridge bearings in all the hubs on stans website was incredable. The wheel spins for so much longer than a traditional bearing set up, its very nice to know that you never have to repack the bearings either.kec123 said:amillmtb - your bike looks great. It is now clear to me that Santa is going to bring me a notubes olympic wheelset. I don't expect to be much faster but surely I will notice some different handling characteristics right? I guess since I'm about to throw money down on these I want to hear someone tell me that there is a big difference!I'll post up a picture of my bike once I get them switched over. Thanks again for the info.
You dont need the rubber rim tape along with the stans yellow tape. The yellow tape is all you need to seal with any stans rim. Looks like a really great wheel build. From what I have heard, the 240s is a great hub. I know someone who runs the 190 ceramic and says its fantastic. The DT hubs use their ratchet system, which has a nice click.kec123 said:right now I've got this in my cart:
ZTR Olympic 347 Disc Wheelset
- Accessory Front Rubber Rim Strip with Yellow Tape & Valve Installed
- Accessory Rear Rubber Rim Strip with Yellow Tape & Valve Installed
- Front Pattern 2-3 Cross (Not Rec'd over 170Lbs)
- Front Wheel Cannondale Lefty Hub 32 Hole
- Nipples Front Black Nipples
- Nipples Rear Black Nipples
- Rear Pattern 2-3 Cross (Not Rec'd over 170Lbs)
- Rear Wheel DT Swiss 240s (6 bolt)
- Spoke Front 2.0/1.5 Black Double Butted Not Rec'd over 175Lbs (3X Only)
- Spoke Rear 2.0/1.5 Black Double Butted Not Rec'd over 175Lbs (3X Only)
- Weight 161 - 175
Anything obviously wrong that I'm missing with this setup? I'm researching rear-hub information before I proceed to check-out because that DT Swiss 240 has a substantial price tag so not sure if it is worth it or not. I do know that I want a quiet hub (is it hope that makes the clicking sounds?). Thanks for the rotational weight and acceleration thoughts that makes perfect sense to me.
The Flow 26'' is pretty beefy for XC at 470g, about 120-130g heavier than the Olympic.RiskEverything said:I'm planning on some Chris King hubs with Stans Flow rims for a more all-mountain oriented bike. For XC I'd say look into the Flow rims.