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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About 8 months ago I laced up a new DT Swiss EX511 rim to a used 350 classic rear hub. I then had the bike shop dish and tension it. I have had it trued a few times now and at different shops and it still makes spoke noises while I ride. According to both shops it is laced in the correct 3 cross pattern. I used the nipple washers. So why is my wheel making noise while I ride?
The craziest part is I just laced up a new XM481 to a used 350 classic front hub and it's making the same noises!!!!! FML
Both built with DT Swiss brass nipples and normal single butt spokes.

I used spoke prep.
I used the DT Swiss spoke washers.
I used DT brass nipples.
I used standard DT spokes
 

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Did you already do an aggressive stress relieving technique? As a standard procedure, the wheel builder at the shop where I used to work would lay wheels down sideways on a rubber mat and have me stand on the rim with all my weight, and shift to work my way around the wheel, flip and repeat. They would creak like crazy at first, but it got all the creaks out and after that the wheels ran silent. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you already do an aggressive stress relieving technique? As a standard procedure, the wheel builder at the shop where I used to work would lay wheels down sideways on a rubber mat and have me stand on the rim with all my weight, and shift to work my way around the wheel, flip and repeat. They would creak like crazy at first, but it got all the creaks out and after that the wheels ran silent. Just a thought.
I am going to try this.
It has also been suggested that I push on the spokes at the hub flange to make sure they are bent at the flange and not pointing away from. The flange.
 

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Before you do, I should give the disclaimer that I weighed 135 lbs at the time. Not sure what the weight limit is for that technique, so make of that what you will.

Good luck and keep us updated!

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
 

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Two shops adding tension to the spokes is not the same as the spokes being properly tensioned.
I would like to see what the actual tension is with a tensionmeter. I have had shops do more bad work than good on wheels, one reason I build my own now as well as my friends. I remind people that most shops don't build wheels, they may true periodically, but few build more than a few sets a month. I can't tell you the number of wheels I have worked on that the shop trued, but keep coming out. It is obvious when you throw them in the stand and spoke tensions are +/-50%. At that point the only solution I have found is to fully detension, and then bring back up evenly.

For the OP, if it were me, I would get a tensionmeter and check and see where the tensions are and how even. If you have a third party do it, have someone who builds wheels regularly do it (there are people who do nothing but build wheels like Mikesee).
 

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When I used to work at a shop, we had a high school kid that loved playing with wheels. Despite knowing nothing about wheel building or tensioning, he'd always grab the wheel tickets when they came through.

My point is that I agree with Mikesee. If a wheel isn't tensioned properly, it will come loose pretty quickly.
 

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Did you already do an aggressive stress relieving technique? As a standard procedure, the wheel builder at the shop where I used to work would lay wheels down sideways on a rubber mat and have me stand on the rim with all my weight, and shift to work my way around the wheel, flip and repeat. They would creak like crazy at first, but it got all the creaks out and after that the wheels ran silent. Just a thought.
Standing on the rim will do nothing. Stand on the spokes with the wheel on the rubber mat with soft soled shoes. Probably what you meant, but just gotta be clear.

Of course after this it'll need to be re-tensioned and/or trued a smidge (or a lot if the thing was off and rode a lot with it messed up).
 

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About 8 months ago I laced up a new DT Swiss EX511 rim to a used 350 classic rear hub. I then had the bike shop dish and tension it.
Poor victim of capitalism :) Bike shop wages are too low for people of any skill to make wheels. So people working there are a random assortment of wage slaves whom give 0 effs about their job. Blame customer's drive to seek cheapest price coupled to inability to judge quality of work performed.

I have had it trued a few times now and at different shops and it still makes spoke noises while I ride.
A wheel that has been built properely does not need adjustment from birth up to it's natural death. Neither does it emit any sounds. At this moment - all of the spokes in this wheel are garbage bin material. I'd suggest you buy your own truing stand and a $30 chinese tension tool.

There is also a selection of online courses and materials about building wheels ( plug: my Youtube channel, link below ) and books. "The bicycle wheel" by Jobst Brandt is a good start.
 

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Poor victim of capitalism :) Bike shop wages are too low for people of any skill to make wheels. So people working there are a random assortment of wage slaves whom give 0 effs about their job. Blame customer's drive to seek cheapest price coupled to inability to judge quality of work performed.

A wheel that has been built properely does not need adjustment from birth up to it's natural death. Neither does it emit any sounds. At this moment - all of the spokes in this wheel are garbage bin material. I'd suggest you buy your own truing stand and a $30 chinese tension tool.

There is also a selection of online courses and materials about building wheels ( plug: my Youtube channel, link below ) and books. "The bicycle wheel" by Jobst Brandt is a good start.
Unless the spokes have physically damaged in some way, there is no reason they need to be replaced.
 
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· high pivot witchcraft
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Unless the spokes have physically damaged in some way, there is no reason they need to be replaced.
My spokes sound more like a ukulele. Or a guitar above the first fret, up by the tuning pegs. We Are One is replacing them as I type. Well, maybe not on a Saturday, but you know what I mean. CXRays. According to We Are One, they need replacing after 4 years of riding. I'm going with non-bladed Races this time. No physical damage apart from lots of mileage.


Post #66 from the thread above nails the sound from my rear wheel.
 
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