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pwn3rator
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3,640 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i'm building new wheels for my new bike and have some questions...

1) should i use my 32 hole rim for the rear or buy a new 36 hole rim? i know it will be strong with the 32 hole rim but i was thinking a 36 would be better.

2) can anyone tell me where i can find 12 gauge spokes?

3) should i go for a 3 cross or 4 cross lace?

the rims are these pivot ones from my haro and the hubs are stealth (rear is 150mm). if i got new rims they would either be double tracks or big fat mammoths...
 

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rollin
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2,646 Posts
scabrider said:
i'm building new wheels for my new bike and have some questions...

1) should i use my 32 hole rim for the rear or buy a new 36 hole rim? i know it will be strong with the 32 hole rim but i was thinking a 36 would be better.

2) can anyone tell me where i can find 12 gauge spokes?

3) should i go for a 3 cross or 4 cross lace?

the rims are these pivot ones from my haro and the hubs are stealth (rear is 150mm). if i got new rims they would either be double tracks or big fat mammoths...
1. 36 is stronger and stiffer, but if you allready have the stealth hubs, i would use what you got. how many holes are in your stealth hubs?

2. 12 gauge? straight gauge is what you want. go to velo and get some straight gauge dt swiss. also, check the dt swiss website, they have a spoke calculator to help you determine the proper length.

3. 3 cross is fine, and easier to build. 3 cross is more common.
 

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pwn3rator
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3,640 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
12 gauge and 14 gauge are sizes (diameter). the term gauge is used when measuring the thickness of wire, the smaller the gauge the thicker it is. the front hub is 32 hole but i need to order the rear (i waited to get a frame before i got the rear hub). a 3 cross wheel is more common but a 4 cross is laterally stiffer, with a 1 cross wheel you could run into curbs and rocks at full speed and never break it, but if you landed sideways it would explode. with a 3 or 4 cross wheel you could land comeplete ly sideways and not break it but when you run into stuff it will break more easily. i wanted a 4 cross wheel for the reason that i am constantly knocking my wheels so far out of true i can no longer pedal...
 

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N* Bomber Crew
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4,271 Posts
Double Tracks? Mammoths? Why?.....Single Tracks will do just fine and keep the weight down.
 

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19 Posts
scabrider said:
12 gauge and 14 gauge are sizes (diameter). the term gauge is used when measuring the thickness of wire, the smaller the gauge the thicker it is. the front hub is 32 hole but i need to order the rear (i waited to get a frame before i got the rear hub). a 3 cross wheel is more common but a 4 cross is laterally stiffer, with a 1 cross wheel you could run into curbs and rocks at full speed and never break it, but if you landed sideways it would explode. with a 3 or 4 cross wheel you could land comeplete ly sideways and not break it but when you run into stuff it will break more easily. i wanted a 4 cross wheel for the reason that i am constantly knocking my wheels so far out of true i can no longer pedal...
With the 12 gauge you might have to open up the spoke holes to accomadate the larger diameter spoke. Most MTB hubs were designed for 14 or 15g spoke diameter. Good luck.
 

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Less yappin, more Brappin
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789 Posts
ummm...

as an afterthought, i dont have time to explain why to use this, that or the other, or why i do it this way. i have been building wheels for 7 years or so and have had excellent results and customer approval. too many semantics and opinions. i learned from the best in the industry

do this => Wheelsmith DB13 spokes, 32 hole, 3 cross, wheelsmith spoke prep and have a professional built it.

on a 4 cross wheel the crossing spoke actually only crosses over (touches)one spoke, just like a 3 cross wheel: it crosses over one, over another, and under the last spoke, where the spoke gives the wheel strength. the spokes dont weave through each other like over, under, over, under. on a 4 cross wheel you would have over, over, over, under. i wish i could draw a frigging picture. get "the bicycle wheel" book by jobst brand or something.

4 cross is heavier (longer spokes to make the 4 cross) and only slightly laterally stiffer than a 3 cross. you wont notice a difference. lots of people who do bicycle touring and heavy load riding use a 4 cross out of tradition, but they are wierdos like recumbent riders. I used to work at the Wheelsmith shop in Palo Alto, CA and Phil Wood so dont f-ing flame me with your opinions.

as for spokes. Wheelsmith makes a DH13 spoke. 13 gauge at the head and elbow, and 14 gauge the rest of the spoke. lightweight and strong. have you ever seen a spoke break in the middle or at the thread? spokes break at the elbow because of the 90 deg bend they make, and when bad derailier adjustments are made and the chan drops on the spokes and damages them.

you would have to make sure that a hub is drilled big enough for a 12 gauge spoke, as well as be able to get nipples big enough. you might have to drill out the spoke holes larger on the hub and rim and thats just stupid.

good luck, maybe instead you could get a spinergy, an old spin, a mag wheel, or a solid aluminum wheel. that would be blingin.
 

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Premium Member
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48,238 Posts
scabrider said:
12 gauge and 14 gauge are sizes (diameter). the term gauge is used when measuring the thickness of wire, the smaller the gauge the thicker it is. the front hub is 32 hole but i need to order the rear (i waited to get a frame before i got the rear hub). a 3 cross wheel is more common but a 4 cross is laterally stiffer, with a 1 cross wheel you could run into curbs and rocks at full speed and never break it, but if you landed sideways it would explode. with a 3 or 4 cross wheel you could land comeplete ly sideways and not break it but when you run into stuff it will break more easily. i wanted a 4 cross wheel for the reason that i am constantly knocking my wheels so far out of true i can no longer pedal...
You have been sold a huge load of BS about the reasons for crossed spoke lacing.

Semi tangental spokes are used to transfer torque loads - drive and braking (with hub brakes). It has a minor affect on the lateral strength of a wheel at best.

Radial lacing is very strong laterally (though not much if any more than tangental) but can not deal rotational loads well. The main reasons to use radial are weight and aerodynamics.

Either will deal with a head-on curb shot equally well (or poorly).

Using 3X or 4X has more to do with the spoke count. You usually can not use 4X with 32 spokes because of interference at the hub. You can use 3 or 4X with 36 spokes. The tangental spokes angle of a 36/4X will be about the same as a 32/3X.

Sapim makes a 2.3mm (13g?) straight spoke and a 2.3/2.0 single butted spoke. Better use a very beefy rim as you may be more likely to crack rims using the burly spokes (less resilient to absorb impacts).
 
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