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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I need some sage advice from the wrenches in this forum.

I have a Sun Ringle Charger Expert wheelset 29er. The rear axle broke a while back and Chain Reaction/Sun Ringle changed it out under warranty. :thumbsup:

Only ridden a handful of miles and the shifting under load is bad in the 28 and 32 (11-36 cassette). Can't get it to do it on the work stand.

It is fine in the 36 and other gears. I have adjusted the der and no luck. Last time it did this the axle was broken. Checked the axle and it is fine. The freewheel also seems to stick (think fixed wheel :eekster:) even with an SLX Shadow+ rear der. .

I have a "road" wheelset (for this MTB) with the same cassette setup and no shifting issues. Only happens on the dirt rear wheel.

Help, please :cryin:
 

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It shifts fine with a second wheelset though. That along with the freewheel issue makes me think it is the hub somehow.
On one bike I have had a problem with hub axle eating into the dropout resulting in wheel setting askew (which in my case caused rotor rub). Worked fine with another wheelset with through bolts. Did not notice WTF is going on until I flipped the bike to inspect the dropouts. Check it sits all the way in and dropouts are not worn. ...just throwing suggestions out there.
 

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The freewheel also seems to stick (think fixed wheel :eekster:) even with an SLX Shadow+ rear der. .
When I had that symptom, it was because I used some old cassette lockring, and it rubbed against freehub when tightened. Also resulted in a cassette not sitting tight (not detectable by wiggling it, as cogs sat in notches on aluminum freehub body). Different lockring fixed that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
On one bike I have had a problem with hub axle eating into the dropout resulting in wheel setting askew (which in my case caused rotor rub). Worked fine with another wheelset with through bolts. Did not notice WTF is going on until I flipped the bike to inspect the dropouts. Check it sits all the way in and dropouts are not worn. ...just throwing suggestions out there.
Cool...I appreciate it. I will take a look. Hoping to find the solution is simple versus needing a new hub/wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When I had that symptom, it was because I used some old cassette lockring, and it rubbed against freehub when tightened. Also resulted in a cassette not sitting tight (not detectable by wiggling it, as cogs sat in notches on aluminum freehub body). Different lockring fixed that.
Using a new cassette/lockring. Switched out cassette and lockring and still did the same thing.

Thanks for all the suggestions as this is driving me nuts and I can't ride the dirt with it like it is. The sooner it is fixed, the sooner my sanity returns.
 

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Cassette worn or a bent sprocket? Weird it would on;y happen after you got the axel replaced but if you were riding with another cassette the chain could have worn quicker. Think it would be happening in other gears as well but if you use those sprockets quite a bit who knows.

Also would assume if you were replacing the axel you would have replaced any worn bearings because some play in the hub could be causing issues somehow too (would have to be quite a lot of play though...).

Second thing, if the freewheel is sticking try a lighter oil (eg. triflow, bit noiser but alot less likely to run into engagement problems), and really take a look at the freewheel and make sure the pawls, springs, freehub body where they attach and the engagement teeth are all in good shape. I've seen a few aluminum freehubs where the hole (indentation?) where the pawl or spring sits start to deform and grind into the hubshell (note: haven't taken apart a charger specifically but assuming it's like most sun hubs using a basic pawl system and AL freehub). Or it's possible a tooth is broken inside the hub and is dragging/scoring the hub shell.

Probably checked all these things but those mystery problems a lot of times always seem to have simple solutions (that often involve a bit of money :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Cassette worn or a bent sprocket? Weird it would on;y happen after you got the axel replaced but if you were riding with another cassette the chain could have worn quicker. Think it would be happening in other gears as well but if you use those sprockets quite a bit who knows.

Also would assume if you were replacing the axel you would have replaced any worn bearings because some play in the hub could be causing issues somehow too (would have to be quite a lot of play though...).

Second thing, if the freewheel is sticking try a lighter oil (eg. triflow, bit noiser but alot less likely to run into engagement problems), and really take a look at the freewheel and make sure the pawls, springs, freehub body where they attach and the engagement teeth are all in good shape. I've seen a few aluminum freehubs where the hole (indentation?) where the pawl or spring sits start to deform and grind into the hubshell (note: haven't taken apart a charger specifically but assuming it's like most sun hubs using a basic pawl system and AL freehub). Or it's possible a tooth is broken inside the hub and is dragging/scoring the hub shell.

Probably checked all these things but those mystery problems a lot of times always seem to have simple solutions (that often involve a bit of money :)
The cassette is new and couldn't find any bent teeth. I switched the cassette to another wheel and it worked fine. Shifting is only an issue wuth this wheel.

The internals of the freewheel seem to be in good order from a visual inspection.
 

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shop didnt reinstall the freehub correctly and its not straight. this leads to the binding during coasting and makes the gears wobble slightly which has more effect on the shifting of the larger diameter gears. put a dial indicator on the largest cog and measure the runout
 

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^^ This. My bet: your freehub is out of alignment, which may indicate a bad install, bad bearings, or bad hub shell -- I am not sure. Since it only mis-shifts under load, the problem seems likely to be in the bearings that are supposed to keep the freehub in a near-perfect circle around the axle. This might be fixable without replacing the hub, although it seems more likely you will need a new hub (there should be no play in there and moving things around under load likely has damaged more than bearings). Significant runout observed in the cassette when freewheeling would be a giveaway, and you might test by looking to see if the hub moves when under load in one of the problem gears when the bike is stopped/braked. It sounds like you can disassemble the hub if you previously took an axle out, so why not take a look inside there also?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I had that hub and junked it.

The axle flexed so badly under pedaling torque that the cassette spuder would hit the spokes.

Any hub that flexes this badly is sure to cause shifting problems.
The more I am investigating, the more I think that this is the issue. Lots of what you are describing along with what rox and Jfloren mentioned are what seem to be happening with my hub.

Time to start saving for a new hub/wheelbuild :( but I'll eventually have a new wheel :thumbsup:
 
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