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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's wrong with my rear hub??



I need some sage advice from the wrenches in this forum.

I have a Sun Ringle Charger Expert wheelset 29er. The rear axle broke a while back and Chain Reaction/Sun Ringle changed it out under warranty.

Only ridden a handful of miles and the shifting under load is bad in the 28 and 32 (11-36 cassette). Can't get it to do it on the work stand.

It is fine in the 36 and other gears. I have adjusted the der and no luck. Last time it did this the axle was broken. Checked the axle and it is fine. The freewheel also seems to stick (think fixed wheel :eekster:) even with an SLX Shadow+ rear der. .

I have a "road" wheelset with the same cassette setup and no shifting issues. Only happens on the dirt rear wheel.

Help, please :madman:
 

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Vassago Bandersnatch, Motobecane HAL Comp 27.5+
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Have you pulled the freehub body to determine why it sticks?

Check the pawls and the ratchet and make sure the bearings in the freehub are good (when I had a set of experts the freehub body bearings wore out quite fast and I got some play, replacing them solved any issues I had).
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you pulled the freehub body to determine why it sticks?

Check the pawls and the ratchet and make sure the bearings in the freehub are good (when I had a set of experts the freehub body bearings wore out quite fast and I got some play, replacing them solved any issues I had).
Thanks for the reponse. I did pull the freehub body and there doesn't seem to be an issue when the hub is pulled apart. When the wheel is not mounted, the freehub/cassette seems to spin fine etc. When it is mounted and under load is when the problems surface. Almost like the skewer squeezes things together too tight and locks things up (if that makes any sense).
 

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With frame alignment tools. Any shop worth its salt will have a pair of "candlesticks" to check alignment with, and if need be, bend back.

Also, check your b-tension setting on the derailleur, as it can cause hesitant shifting if the pulley is dragging on the cassette.
 

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mtbpete
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I've seen this before. It looks like there's not enough clearance between the freehub and the hub body. There's a spacer that fits between the freehub and the hub body and sometime it's a hair too short. Notubes uses hubs from the same factory and they've had this same problem. They have .2mm shims that you can insert in this area and it will solve the problem. Call them up and ask for one.

Sometimes this can also be solved by pushing the freehub bearings deeper into the freehub. So, if the freehub bearings are not bottomed out in their shell then the gap between the freehub and the hub body will be to large. You can try this trick first. - Set the freehub, pawl side down on a wooden table, then put a socket over the outer race of the top bearing and tap the bearings deeper with a plastic mallet. You may have to remove a seal first to do this. You can also tap on the inner race of the bearing - it's not recommended, but these bearings are so large that it rarely does any harm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've seen this before. It looks like there's not enough clearance between the freehub and the hub body. There's a spacer that fits between the freehub and the hub body and sometime it's a hair too short. Notubes uses hubs from the same factory and they've had this same problem. They have .2mm shims that you can insert in this area and it will solve the problem. Call them up and ask for one.

Sometimes this can also be solved by pushing the freehub bearings deeper into the freehub. So, if the freehub bearings are not bottomed out in their shell then the gap between the freehub and the hub body will be to large. You can try this trick first. - Set the freehub, pawl side down on a wooden table, then put a socket over the outer race of the top bearing and tap the bearings deeper with a plastic mallet. You may have to remove a seal first to do this. You can also tap on the inner race of the bearing - it's not recommended, but these bearings are so large that it rarely does any harm.
Gave NoTubes a call earlier today and they are sending a spacer out to me. No charge :cool:. Thanks for the super awesome tip. I hope it works and I can be on my way with such little fuss.

If not, I'll be checking out Pete's Wheels for a new build to get me back out on the trail. Thanks again for the info. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Got the shim but can't seem to get where it fits. There is a space between the freehub and the hub body that is too large for the shim to matter. Would you happen to have a pic of what you are describing as the area that the shim should be placed in to make it work?


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mtbpete
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There is already a 10 to 12mm spacer between the freehub and the hub body. You need this shim in addition to that. The best place for it is over the axle on top of the main hub drive side bearing. Then place the spacer on top of that, then place the hub body back on. You may have missed this spacer when disassembling the hub. It's either still on the axle, inside the freehub (stuck by grease) or you dropped it on the floor.

You can check out the Notubes hub service manual here:
http://www.notubes.com/help/a/literature/Hub-Manual.pdf

Figure 4 - Hub disassembled shows a the main spacer and the small shim right below the freehub body. These both go over the axle before reinstalling the freehub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There is already a 10 to 12mm spacer between the freehub and the hub body. You need this shim in addition to that. The best place for it is over the axle on top of the main hub drive side bearing. Then place the spacer on top of that, then place the hub body back on. You may have missed this spacer when disassembling the hub. It's either still on the axle, inside the freehub (stuck by grease) or you dropped it on the floor.

You can check out the Notubes hub service manual here:
http://www.notubes.com/help/a/literature/Hub-Manual.pdf

Figure 4 - Hub disassembled shows a the main spacer and the small shim right below the freehub body. These both go over the axle before reinstalling the freehub.
:drumroll: We have a WINNER!!

When I got the wheel back from CRC, the spacer you mentioned and was in Figure 4 was packed in the same bag as the broken axle.

I mistakenly assumed it was part of the broken axle. Put the hub back together and thought I was good to go. Thankfully, it doesn't seem I've done any irreparable damage.

With the proper spacer, I was able to get the hub back together and it seems to be in good working order. I will test it out later tonight after work.

Thanks for all your help on this one. :thumbsup: When I do have the funds saved up for another rear wheel, I will definitely be sending my business your way.
 

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What's wrong with my rear hub??

I need some sage advice from the wrenches in this forum.

I have a Sun Ringle Charger Expert wheelset 29er. The rear axle broke a while back and Chain Reaction/Sun Ringle changed it out under warranty.

Only ridden a handful of miles and the shifting under load is bad in the 28 and 32 (11-36 cassette). Can't get it to do it on the work stand.

It is fine in the 36 and other gears. I have adjusted the der and no luck. Last time it did this the axle was broken. Checked the axle and it is fine. The freewheel also seems to stick (think fixed wheel :eekster:) even with an SLX Shadow+ rear der. .

I have a "road" wheelset with the same cassette setup and no shifting issues. Only happens on the dirt rear wheel.

Help, please :madman:
I have a rear hub from a black flag wheelset that i got for free. I was thinking i would crack it open to see in what shape it was in.

Buuut just by handling it and looking at it i deemed it too low quality to even crack it open.

Get an slx hub instead. those are quality hubs.

However its probably not your hub causing your problems here. They still make **** hubs though.

edit: ahh i see you got it solved. :)
 
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