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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The site says so you can run road or mtb hubs. But the frame doesn't have disc brake mounts so why would you want to run mtb hubs? If you're building from leftovers and have a mtb wheelset it's not going to have brake tracks needed for the rim brakes. There's got to be something clever here that is going over my head.
 

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Amen to versatility - the CC's forte. The flexibility in the steel stays allow for the 'tweener spacing, so why not? CCs can be built up anyway you want - roadie, trailbike, single speed, fixie, racer, commuter, tourer. Maximum hub choice is nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks guys, these are things I didn't think of...

non-disc mtn hubs, rim brake mtb wheelsets, bolt-on fixed cogs

I guess those aren't common setups but that is why they call it versatile.
 

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Shimano no longer makes XT non-disc hubs. They still make Deore and LX.
 

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And I thought I was the only one who cared. It's getting tougher to find high quality 135mm hubs without disc mounts. Which explains why Surly used 132.5 spacing. There is no shortage of 130mm high end road hubs.
Surly has been using the "gnot right" spacing for years. I think the idea was to make the bike as versatile as possible and easier to build up with spare parts. But yeah, it's getting harder to find those hubs. Or rather, cheaper ones. Hight end 135mm hubs from Paul and Phil Wood are still available but those hubs cost as much as a Surly frame. XT hubs were a great deal.

Years ago, Grant Petersen at Rivendell Bike Works talked about wanting to produce a 132.5mm rear hub that could be used in 130mm or 135mm spaced frames.
 

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It's worth noting that other makes, like Cotic, have been doing this for ages as well, taking advantage of the "one size up or down" advantages of steel and 132.5mm spacing, for the same reasons mentioned by dfltroll.
 

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In my experience, you gotta run a pretty strong QR if you try to use road hubs on the Cross Check. I had problems with the rear wheel pulling out of the dropouts when I tried to run 130mm hubs. Horizontal dropouts plus 132.5mm spacing and a 130mm hub is not a good combo in my opinion. Sometimes versatility comes at a price.
 

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In my experience, you gotta run a pretty strong QR if you try to use road hubs on the Cross Check. I had problems with the rear wheel pulling out of the dropouts when I tried to run 130mm hubs. Horizontal dropouts plus 132.5mm spacing and a 130mm hub is not a good combo in my opinion. Sometimes versatility comes at a price.
You should be able to use extra spacers on the axle to get it at 132.5mm That way the QR isn't doing all the work. Or you could just get a replacement axle for a 135mm MTB and space it at 135mm either way will work.
 

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I've had my CC, with a 105 rear hub, for almost a year now with no rear wheel slipping problems. I also weight about 260 (maybe a little more with Christmas here and all :D), and I hammer out-of-the-saddle pretty hard going up hills. Shimano QR skewers are pretty good. I like the internal cams. Maybe that's why I don't have problems. But really, any decent skewer should hold, as long as you put it on properly (imprint on your hand, and all that).
 
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