The site says so you can run road or mtb hubs. But the frame doesn't have disc brake mounts so why would you want to run mtb hubs? If you're building from leftovers and have a mtb wheelset it's not going to have brake tracks needed for the rim brakes. There's got to be something clever here that is going over my head.
What's with the 132.5 spacing on the Cross-Check?
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Joined
·
580 Posts
versality, breh.
it's what surly is all about.
and since when do "leftover mtb wheelsets" not have brake tracks?
it's what surly is all about.
and since when do "leftover mtb wheelsets" not have brake tracks?
Joined
·
385 Posts
Not all mtb wheels are disc only. I used xt hubs when i built mine for the better seals (and price). The new ones come stock with deore hubs too.
Joined
·
580 Posts
Joined
·
1,801 Posts
You can use a flipped disc hub with a bolt-on cog for fixed riding.
Joined
·
580 Posts
Joined
·
143 Posts
Why not just use XT centerlock hubs without the rotors? Am I missing something?
Joined
·
1,212 Posts
Joined
·
2,943 Posts
And I thought I was the only one who cared. It's getting tougher to find high quality 135mm hubs without disc mounts. Which explains why Surly used 132.5 spacing. There is no shortage of 130mm high end road hubs.
Joined
·
1,212 Posts
Surly has been using the "gnot right" spacing for years. I think the idea was to make the bike as versatile as possible and easier to build up with spare parts. But yeah, it's getting harder to find those hubs. Or rather, cheaper ones. Hight end 135mm hubs from Paul and Phil Wood are still available but those hubs cost as much as a Surly frame. XT hubs were a great deal.
Years ago, Grant Petersen at Rivendell Bike Works talked about wanting to produce a 132.5mm rear hub that could be used in 130mm or 135mm spaced frames.
In my experience, you gotta run a pretty strong QR if you try to use road hubs on the Cross Check. I had problems with the rear wheel pulling out of the dropouts when I tried to run 130mm hubs. Horizontal dropouts plus 132.5mm spacing and a 130mm hub is not a good combo in my opinion. Sometimes versatility comes at a price.
Joined
·
580 Posts
i ran an ultegra rear hub for about 3yrs on my old xcheck....never had it slip once.
i weigh 260, so i wasn't exactly easy on it either.....
i weigh 260, so i wasn't exactly easy on it either.....
Joined
·
2,943 Posts
You should be able to use extra spacers on the axle to get it at 132.5mm That way the QR isn't doing all the work. Or you could just get a replacement axle for a 135mm MTB and space it at 135mm either way will work.
I've had my CC, with a 105 rear hub, for almost a year now with no rear wheel slipping problems. I also weight about 260 (maybe a little more with Christmas here and all 
), and I hammer out-of-the-saddle pretty hard going up hills. Shimano QR skewers are pretty good. I like the internal cams. Maybe that's why I don't have problems. But really, any decent skewer should hold, as long as you put it on properly (imprint on your hand, and all that).
), and I hammer out-of-the-saddle pretty hard going up hills. Shimano QR skewers are pretty good. I like the internal cams. Maybe that's why I don't have problems. But really, any decent skewer should hold, as long as you put it on properly (imprint on your hand, and all that).1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Join the discussion
