[Stanceslao]

So I ordered a Shimano MF-TZ500 7 speed from amazon, got it and installed it yesterday. I was having shifting issues, like when shifting from 7th gear to 6th gear, the chain hesitates, so i adjust the barrel adjuster, then it will shift fine, but the problem goes to the other cogs.

I noticed there is a varying gap between the cogs, especially the gap between the 6th and 7th gear. I asked my local bike shop if it was designed like that and they told me the gaps should be uniform. I also called Shimano and i was told the gaps should be the same and the guy on the phone said they have been receiving reports of counterfeit items.

Anyway, i am still looking for a new MF-TZ500 & speed because my local bike shops have none.

Looking at amazon, there are lots of the model above, but they are labelled with a name before the actual part number... and the picture looks the same as the OEm... are these counterfeit items, or the name in from just signifies who manufactured the part for Shimano?

Please see attached picture:

Here is mine, it doesn't look as bad here, maybe it's the angle I took the picture in.

 

[Stanceslao]

There is also a similar complaint on the internet and actually looks the same as what i have:

Freewheel cog spacing not even, causing chain rub. - Bike Forums

Bicycle Mechanics - Freewheel cog spacing not even, causing chain rub. - I have an older Shimano 600 hub I just bought a new 7 Speed freewheel for (Shimano TZ510 14-28t). It seems the distance between cogs is irregularslightly different distance from one cog to the next. I attached a photo but...

www.bikeforums.net

 

[DeeCount]

Those listings on Amazon are ALL aftermarket cassettes. There would be no prefix naming on an actual Shimano part. 👍

 

[richj8990]

So I ordered a Shimano MF-TZ500 7 speed from amazon, got it and installed it yesterday. I was having shifting issues, like when shifting from 7th gear to 6th gear, the chain hesitates, so i adjust the barrel adjuster, then it will shift fine, but the problem goes to the other cogs.

I noticed there is a varying gap between the cogs, especially the gap between the 6th and 7th gear. I asked my local bike shop if it was designed like that and they told me the gaps should be uniform. I also called Shimano and i was told the gaps should be the same and the guy on the phone said they have been receiving reports of counterfeit items.

Anyway, i am still looking for a new MF-TZ500 & speed because my local bike shops have none.

Looking at amazon, there are lots of the model above, but they are labelled with a name before the actual part number... and the picture looks the same as the OEm... are these counterfeit items, or the name in from just signifies who manufactured the part for Shimano?

Please see attached picture:
View attachment 1959648

Here is mine, it doesn't look as bad here, maybe it's the angle I took the picture in.
View attachment 1959650

The DNP will be fine, I had a couple of those. But...for about $100 you can get a new rear wheel and 7- or 8-speed cassette...so...

Do you have a solid bolt-on rear axle? I (and about a million other people) have broken freewheel axles. If you have not broken the axle yet, you'll often eventually break the hub casing around the axle. You'll take off the rear wheel for something and the whole hub will suddenly fall apart, even if it rode OK before. So really, long-term a cassette & freehub-based rear wheel is for sure the way to go and not a freewheel. Plus you'll have much better range, you can still use a 7-speed shifter if you want. Some on here will suggest you convert your current bike to 10/11 speed but really for a QR bike I don't think it's worth it, just an opinion...but I'd for sure get a cassette. They make 11-42t 8-speed cassettes now. You will however need a 9-speed rear derailleur to handle that so maybe $125-150 total for the conversion but you'll have a buttload of range with 3x. Again, someone else reading this will say do a 10/11 speed for $200 but trust me it's not a $200 conversion, it's more than that, especially if your crankset is riveted and not removable chainrings.

 

[mtnbkrmike]

The smart money is that it’s knock off trash.

 

[Sparticus]

The DNP will be fine, I had a couple of those. But...for about $100 you can get a new rear wheel and 7- or 8-speed cassette...so...

Do you have a solid bolt-on rear axle? I (and about a million other people) have broken freewheel axles. If you have not broken the axle yet, you'll often eventually break the hub casing around the axle. You'll take off the rear wheel for something and the whole hub will suddenly fall apart, even if it rode OK before. So really, long-term a cassette & freehub-based rear wheel is for sure the way to go and not a freewheel. Plus you'll have much better range, you can still use a 7-speed shifter if you want. Some on here will suggest you convert your current bike to 10/11 speed but really for a QR bike I don't think it's worth it, just an opinion...but I'd for sure get a cassette. They make 11-42t 8-speed cassettes now. You will however need a 9-speed rear derailleur to handle that so maybe $125-150 total for the conversion but you'll have a buttload of range with 3x. Again, someone else reading this will say do a 10/11 speed for $200 but trust me it's not a $200 conversion, it's more than that, especially if your crankset is riveted and not removable chainrings.

Solid advice right here.
=sParty

 

[Stanceslao]

This bike is only a walmart cruiser bike for my kid. She's only using it around our neighborhood. And she isn't complaining, but I am not happy with how the bike shifts that's why I have replaced the derailleur, chain, and hopefully I will find an OEM Shimano 7 speed free wheel... if anyone can point me in the right direction, it will be greatly appreciated.

Edit: if the hub breaks, then I will replace it with something as suggested above.

 

[127.0.0.1]

all those amazon pictures are counterfeit aftermarket trash
shimano is shimano, period.

 

[noapathy]

If it's a Wally World bike, I'd go over the "assembly" to make sure it was at least put together right. 10 times out of 9 they're not. Also, unless she's had it quite a long time I wouln't bother with replacing the freewheel - it won't change how it shifts unless it's seriously worn on a 7 speed. The original should last a looooong time with a kiddo riding as long as it's looked after. Assuming it's properly adjusted, all the parts you swapped...that's like stage 2 to get better shifting.

Stage 1: Check cables/housings for kinks/sticking and make sure the derailleur hanger (or frame if it doesn't have one) is straight.

 

[Arm&Hammer]

Most Wally bikes use brake housing not derailleur housing on the shift cables and the shifter sometimes needs replacement as well. The pull amount is incorrect, as a a mechanic I have had to change shifter, housing, cable and derailleur but never the cassette or freewheel.

 

[2021Mach6]

Those listings on Amazon are ALL aftermarket cassettes. There would be no prefix naming on an actual Shimano part. 👍

I order a ton from Amazon, but bike components aren't included. I don't know why, but the few times I did, something seemed off. I'll order grips and stuff like that, but cassette, brakes, etc I don't trust.

 

[wschruba]

It's the lure of free money. Amazon literally does not care if someone puts "Not Shimano" [xxx] in front of something. Maybe Shimano complains, maybe they take it down. The next day, there will be 10 new ones.

Those of us around for some time remember a similar thing with eBay. They barely survived the blow to their credibility, where a search for something like 'Shimano' or 'Sram' would lead to mountains of crap that were neither--and calling them 'compatible' would be a stretch.

Just for shits and giggles, go to ebay (or Amazon) and search for 'bike tools'. See how much crap you have to wade through before you find something reasonable.

 

[twowheelmotion]

This is a Google search result here, but there was a more official press release from Shimano published recently that addressed counterfeit parts, and the need to verify all purchases from authorized retailers. Shimano takes their stuff very seriously, and offers warranties on all parts, some, like XTR even carry multi-year warranties. The message is to never buy any Shimano parts off the web unless they are coming from a verified shimano dealer. The basic message is to visit the Shimano website and search for a dealer or approved online retailer, etc...

Shimano steps up efforts to beat counterfeiters

Hard-to-copy packaging design and unique QR codes among measures being taken to beat the fakers

road.cc

 

[Stanceslao]

If it's a Wally World bike, I'd go over the "assembly" to make sure it was at least put together right. 10 times out of 9 they're not. Also, unless she's had it quite a long time I wouln't bother with replacing the freewheel - it won't change how it shifts unless it's seriously worn on a 7 speed. The original should last a looooong time with a kiddo riding as long as it's looked after. Assuming it's properly adjusted, all the parts you swapped...that's like stage 2 to get better shifting.

Stage 1: Check cables/housings for kinks/sticking and make sure the derailleur hanger (or frame if it doesn't have one) is straight.

Yes, I have done the 1st stage... and I had problems with the original freewheel . Eventhough I managed to get the slack, the thing skips when on the 7th gear ( there is a new thread about a similar issue on here somewhere, posted a few days ago, be it with a "proper bike" ) so I want to replace it. Though I can just adjust the H screw so it won't use the 7th gear, the "not so perfectionist" in me always kicks in .

===============

Most Wally bikes use brake housing not derailleur housing on the shift cables and the shifter sometimes needs replacement as well. The pull amount is incorrect, as a a mechanic I have had to change shifter, housing, cable and derailleur but never the cassette or freewheel.

Yes Sir, I have changed the derailleur and hanger too... and you are right, the lowest model Shimano shifter doesn't have the correct "pull amount" 9in my case), especially when I keep shifting.. it will act erratic and will not shift properly. I will have to wait a few minutes for it to recover it's "cable tension", then it will do it's job. I have a shifter on order.

 

[Arm&Hammer]

Did you replace the housing?

 

[idividebyzero]

They are just low quality cheap cassettes from China, the first word of the listing indicates that they arent made by Shimano so they arent passing them off as "counterfeit". I cant say I see enough of a difference in the spacing that should be causing any issues considering how much slop there is in 7 speed chains, the 7 speed cassettes dont need very precise setup, so something else is probably wrong, maybe a bent derailleur hanger.

 

[Stanceslao]

Did you replace the housing?

do you mean the cable sleeve? If yes, no the cable moves smoothly on the sleeve, no grittiness and no kinks/bends. Am I missing something?

 

[r-rocket]

The reference to shimano in all of those only means they tried to copy shimano gear spacing measurements instead of trying to copy Sram gear spacing, or Campagnolo gear spacing.

 

[Arm&Hammer]

do you mean the cable sleeve? If yes, no the cable moves smoothly on the sleeve, no grittiness and no kinks/bends. Am I missing something?

Yep, the sometimes use a compression housing and every time to pull the shifter the housing compresses and the result it change the cable pull and it will never shift right, sometimes the only thing needed is new housing to fix the shifting on those bikes.

Just like with cables, housing comes in two different types: brake and shifter. From the outside they may look the same - but they are in fact very different.
Brake housing is built around a wire that coils down the length of the cable. This structure gives the great strength needed for the power generated by the brake lever.

Shifter cables see different forces so the housing is built differently. Shifter housing is built around many length-wise running cables that make the housing 'compressionless' which aids in the crisp feel of shifting

Shifter housing also comes in two different outside diameters, 4mm and 5mm. New bikes and shifter sets typically come with 4mm housing. Most 4mm housing will have plastic ferrules at the ends while 5mm housing uses metal ferrules.

Other variations of housing include housing made from many aluminum segments, like Nokon housing. On the positive side the aluminum housing is stiff, lightweight, and reusable. On the negative side there is a lot more set up time, cost, and care must be taken to be sure that the frame is protected as aluminum housing will rub paint off where it contacts the frame.
Please Note: Due to their construction, brake housing should always be used with brakes and shifter housing should always be used with shifters. Shifter housing could fail if used on a brake (not good when you want to stop), brake housing could make that shifter feel a little dead.

 

[Stanceslao]

@Arm&Hammer - great info, I never knew that... big thanks