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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Question for anybody who can help me out.

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna just go with the Truvative Descendant 7k DUB crankset. Upon searching around, I can only find the Descendant 170mm cranks in SuperBoost (my bike is boost). Is the SuperBoost offset only determined by the chainring? I plan on reusing my current chainring that is offset for Boost spacing on the new cranks.
 

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Question for anybody who can help me out.

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna just go with the Truvative Descendant 7k DUB crankset. Upon searching around, I can only find the Descendant 170mm cranks in SuperBoost (my bike is boost). Is the SuperBoost offset only determined by the chainring? I plan on reusing my current chainring that is offset for Boost spacing on the new cranks.
Those look great. Forged arms!

Best I can tell on short notice is that the SB spindle is longer and uses the same 3 mm offset chain rings as boost.

Check out page 18 here:


Edit: The manual above only shows using the 3 mm offset chain ring. I suspect you could use the 6 mm offset chain ring to move the chain line in from 56.5 mm to 53.5 mm. This is 1.5 mm wider than boost chain line at 52. But I bet you can play with some spacers and move it in the additional 1.5 mm. This is all speculation on my part.

Here is a link to the BB/Crankset manual. It shows the spacers required on page 7

 

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Holy crap. Is that crank press-fit from two halves? No wonder it broke. No part of that assembly is any stronger than the half of what it should be.
You do know bonding is used in a ton of industries and the bonded joint is stronger than the material?
 

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Question for anybody who can help me out.

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna just go with the Truvative Descendant 7k DUB crankset. Upon searching around, I can only find the Descendant 170mm cranks in SuperBoost (my bike is boost). Is the SuperBoost offset only determined by the chainring? I plan on reusing my current chainring that is offset for Boost spacing on the new cranks.
We're not here to give you advice, man!
We're here to argue about our individual sample size of one.

Honestly, most cranks are pretty swell sorted these days. Personally I'd stick with a 30mm spindle unless I had a PF92 frame.

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
We're not here to give you advice, man!
We're here to argue about our individual sample size of one.

Honestly, most cranks are pretty swell sorted these days. Personally I'd stick with a 30mm spindle unless I had a PF92 frame.

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk
My current setup uses the DUB as well. It's a 175mm Turvativ 6k. I'm interested in going 170mm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Those look great. Forged arms!

Best I can tell on short notice is that the SB spindle is longer and uses the same 3 mm offset chain rings as boost.

Check out page 18 here:


Edit: The manual above only shows using the 3 mm offset chain ring. I suspect you could use the 6 mm offset chain ring to move the chain line in from 56.5 mm to 53.5 mm. This is 1.5 mm wider than boost chain line at 52. But I bet you can play with some spacers and move it in the additional 1.5 mm. This is all speculation on my part.

Here is a link to the BB/Crankset manual. It shows the spacers required on page 7

Thanks a bunch for the response. I finally found one with Boost spacing in stock, so I should be good.
 

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I've only noticed cheap road cranks flex. Like really cheap old square tapers on lowest end bikes.

Even a $80 slx crank is crazy stiff. I bought my x01 mostly because I wanted an x01 crank. I can't feel a difference between it and any Shimano crank, but the price was right and I wanted a cool crankset.

High end cranks are a pretty colossal waste of money.
I never felt a crank flex. Any frame flexes way before the cranks anyway.
 

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Elitest thrill junkie
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You do know bonding is used in a ton of industries and the bonded joint is stronger than the material?
Well, that's what we hope, but this isn't Airbus...
 

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What do people think about the Truvativ Descendant Carbon Eagle Dub crankset for $260? I know the weight savings aren't there. Any tangible differences for the minor price increase over the Dub 7k's? Is carbon that cheap is even worth it?
I have a set and haven't had a single issue in the past 2 years. I got them because the pedal threads in one of my aluminum NX arms decided to rip out one day, ~2mo into ownership. Had to wait on warranty and wanted to ride so I bought them (a week or so later SRAM sent me a GX crankset).

I can't speak for differences over the Dub 7k's, but I can tell you I ride my bike pretty hard (6'+ drops and lots of big jumps) and I've not had a single issue, despite them being a "cheap carbon crankset."
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
I have a set and haven't had a single issue in the past 2 years. I got them because the pedal threads in one of my aluminum NX arms decided to rip out one day, ~2mo into ownership. Had to wait on warranty and wanted to ride so I bought them (a week or so later SRAM sent me a GX crankset).

I can't speak for differences over the Dub 7k's, but I can tell you I ride my bike pretty hard (6+ drops and lots of big jumps) and I've not had a single issue, despite them being a "cheap carbon crankset."
"Cheap" is probably a bad term. I mean more like "reasonably priced" carbon. 😉
 

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THe material is not as important as the design. SRAM carbon cranks have been refined over a 15yr period and are very solid products. Cannondales Hollowgram SL has been the benchmark aluminium crankset for nearly 20years.
RF carbon cranks have always been problematic while their alloy cranks were once the value leader in the market ahead of Shimano XT.
The best crank Shimano produced was their M960 XTR crank. yet they have to fit chainings made of cheese and use a 102mm bcd for the middle ring. Annoying and expensive, cynical even.
Hope now produces a fantastic alloy crank.
Shimano's latest crank offerings leave much to be desired with the cranks arms prone to splitting apart.

I'll stick to my SRAM or Hollowgram cranks thanks
 

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Elastic deformation, sure.

Doubt a human pedaling can cause permanent deformation.

I figure that anyone in the MTB crank-making business should consider designing them to withstand getting caught on a rock with a ton of inertia (the kind of high-speed pedal strike that causes a crash). Not sure what other kind of abuse compares from normal riding.
 
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