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Discussion Starter #1
Well, grips for *sure* don't twist, if you use two-sided masking tape and mineral spirits.

But they also don't come off, and you seriously risk a trip to the ER if you use a box cutter or X-acto knife to 'whittle' the grips off. After spending almost an hour to get the left grip off, I brought out the dremel tool, then ended up using that and a hack saw to cut the bar ( you can see where I started the cut ). Man, Giant uses some seriously thick-walled aluminum in their bars.

Anyway, lesson learned. <sigh>

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Seriously? A hacksaw? Maybe shoulda stuck with golf?
 

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My grips have locking rings but long ago when I had friction type grips I used hair spray to install them. Wet the bar and slip them on. They never twisted and were not impossible to remove.
 

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If that's how you install golf grips, how does one remove them?

And for that matter, what didn't work about just splitting them lengthwise and peeling them off the bar? Those look like they might be ergons, and you tried to bypass the clamp? any reason for that?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If that's how you install golf grips, how does one remove them?

And for that matter, what didn't work about just splitting them lengthwise and peeling them off the bar? Those look like they might be ergons, and you tried to bypass the clamp? any reason for that?
With golf grips you *do* just take an razor knife of some sort, and cut parallel to the shaft and they more or less peel off, though I'm no expert. I only re-gripped my clubs once (which is why I had an enormous roll of double-sided tape left over).

These are (were) Ergon grips, and the rubber is so thick and dense it's very hard to peel off the bar, especially considering it's now chemically fused with the melted tape. There's also a plastic tube where the lock ring is, that has to be chipped off.

I didn't want to cut the bar, but I had already broken two box-cutter blades, and thought, 'screw it.' I wanted to ride the bike in the AM, and it was getting late.

I will readily admit this was not my proudest moment. The idea that I wouldn't be able to get the grips off had occurred to me but I figured I wouldn't need to, or could remove the bar with the grips attached and save it (thinking the lock rings for the shifters and brakes were like those on the FD, where one half folds back, after removing the locking screw).

Anyway, a good lesson. I have a new Eaton carbon bar on there, now, and I'm 1x10 with a RaceFace NW chain ring, so the end result is nice, albeit more expensive than necessary.
 

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Self Appointed Judge&Jury
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One word ODI Lock on grips. Oh wait that's more than one word.:madman:

Seriously though break into the twenty first century. They are so simple to use. Screw them on and take them off over and over and over and over again. I could install and remove them and reinstall them 100 times before you could glue those suckers on cut them off re-glue another set on. I'd be out enjoying riding my bike with my ODI Lock On's.
All this with ZERO slippage ever. Definitely in the top 10 of best improvements in mtbing.
 

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All that stuff you went through is still better than playing Golf. (Kidding, of course, I just don't play. Seems OK considering the beer and weed)
 

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Lock on grips, forget about double sticky tape, hairspray or any other product to keep them in place.
Those were lock on grips. No idea why all the rest was added.
 

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These are (were) Ergon grips, and the rubber is so thick and dense it's very hard to peel off the bar, especially considering it's now chemically fused with the melted tape. There's also a plastic tube where the lock ring is, that has to be chipped off.
Ergons have a 4mm bolt to tension the locking ring. If you can't get them to stay tight on your carbon bars after they get a little used and old change the bolt to a 5mm water bottle carrier bolt from any lbs. More torque and it will hold.
 

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Ergons have a 4mm bolt to tension the locking ring. If you can't get them to stay tight on your carbon bars after they get a little used and old change the bolt to a 5mm water bottle carrier bolt from any lbs. More torque and it will hold.
More torque on a carbon bar is how you trash a carbon bar. Use just enough to get the job done and do not exceed the manufacturers torque specs. An over-tight grip clamp and a hard landing is not a good mix. Friction paste will also help keep grips on a carbon bar without over tightening. I use ODI grips and paste and they stay put without cranking them down.
 

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Some carbon bars are not intended for lock on grips use. Second the not over torquing.
 

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More torque on a carbon bar is how you trash a carbon bar. Use just enough to get the job done and do not exceed the manufacturers torque specs. An over-tight grip clamp and a hard landing is not a good mix. Friction paste will also help keep grips on a carbon bar without over tightening. I use ODI grips and paste and they stay put without cranking them down.
Improper use of torque.
Yes tighten only enough to maintain grip. This is for grips when the original bolt is worn and you are stripping the head trying to install it. You don't generally need paste with Ergons at least on Easton bars. The 5mm is less likely to strip using the allen key.
 

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Self Appointed Judge&Jury
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Some carbon bars are not intended for lock on grips use. Second the not over torquing.
I've been running the same Easton Monkey Lite carbon bars and the same Lock On's for 11 years. As long as you use common sense and barely tighten them they work fine and never slip or loosen. But of course in today's society many people don't possess the common sense gene.

The bars are actually 13 years old but with Lock On's for 11 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Those were lock on grips. No idea why all the rest was added.
Yes...the irony is that probably the tape and solvent weren't necessary, but having been really irked by previous pair (not lock-on) twisting around, I decided to make really, really sure this set wouldn't move.

eta: fortunately, I was at least smart enough to stick the original grips in a drawer, so they're back on now, and...not bad. It's only been one ride, but the carbon bar seems 'softer,' though it might be my imagination, and I'm not rushing to get another pair of Ergons.
 

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Elitest thrill junkie
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And if you are not using lock-on grips, the traditional method to install and take off grips is via an air compressor. Makes quick work of grips.
 

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Big Mac
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Well, grips for *sure* don't twist, if you use two-sided masking tape and mineral spirits.

But they also don't come off, and you seriously risk a trip to the ER if you use a box cutter or X-acto knife to 'whittle' the grips off. After spending almost an hour to get the left grip off, I brought out the dremel tool, then ended up using that and a hack saw to cut the bar ( you can see where I started the cut ). Man, Giant uses some seriously thick-walled aluminum in their bars.

Anyway, lesson learned. <sigh>

View attachment 847734
Me thinks that you should never, ever touch another bicycle. Seriously.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Me thinks that you should never, ever touch another bicycle. Seriously.
That seems a bit harsh. Seriously.

Here, you'll like this picture. How would you have gotten the grip off? After struggling with one grip, I thought "screw it" and just cut the bar. (Granted, the cut isn't terribly clean, but that's because once I cut 2/3rds through, I just wiggled it until it snapped off).

An 'as-new' take-off Giant handlebar on eBay is around twelve bucks 'buy it now', and I wanted to use my new Eaton anyway.



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That picture reads like a twisted tale of psychopathic revenge, did you cut that bar with an axe?
 
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