I can appreciate at least the acknowledgement from a wheel builder. It's unfortunate that people aren't given the info that modern carbon wheels are much stronger than aluminum; I hear the same old "build 32h aluminum for hucking."
Here's a video of Danny MacAskill doing everything he can to break a set (try that with aluminum):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VfjjiHGuHoc
I'll repeat my own experience from which I feel subjectively like I have a lot of data on a 28h/24h carbon build:
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So one thing to collectively realize is that with the strength of carbon rims, especially wider, deeper rims, they hold their own shape without spokes. That's not necessarily the case with aluminum rims.
How to tell: generally carbon rims don't need much truing, if any. Aluminum rims always are needing truing.
2nd way to tell: there's only so much tension that an aluminum rim can hold before it gets pulled out of round, and ruined. Carbon wheels can perform well, even with poorly balanced spoke tension (from bad wheel builders like me).
Thirdly, spokes pull in, not push out. So ideally what you want is a very high tension, low spoke count with carbon rims. I was talked into building with Berd spokes and I'm currently in the process of building with them--they're actually lighter and flex more, which you'd possibly want with stiffer wider rims.
On my Notubes Valors, I've had to replace a couple rear spokes before getting inserts. I've never had to do anything to the front 24h rim, it has all the original spokes and has never needed truing. These wheels are Breck Epic, Wilderness 101, and Marathon Nats finishers, among many other races, to give you perspective.
Last point: try foam inserts! You'll love them. They'll save you thousands of bucks when you rim strike, and in my experience they'll also save you from broken spokes. Haven't had a single rim ding, broken spoke, nor truing issue since I went to Nube inserts (1.5" closed cell foam).
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