[abroadaw]

Hello Everybody,

Well, after being out of cycling for a couple of years and putting on, um, a little weight, I really want to jump back into mountain biking. I have a basically brand-new 2000 Specialized Enduro Comp which suits me really well, except I feel like the suspension doesn't perform very well under my weight. I weigh 240 without my gear and I eat up most of the suspension travel just sitting down. The bike has a bone-stock Manitou SX LT on the front (which I really suspect is a piece of crap) and a Fox Float R in back, which I keep filled with 250 lbs. The sag on the bike is really disheartening, but I am not even sure where to start with correcting the problem. I don't have the money to get a new bike, and the components, wheels, disc brakes, and frame are all great, so do you all have any suggestions what to do with the suspension?

I have been reading your posts about PUSH and wonder if they could do anything worthwhile with the rear shock, but is it to old to even mess with? Should I look into getting a new front fork or look into getting stiffer springs (is that even possible)? I have been out of things for long enough to not know what is really out there as far as forks for heavier guys, so any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm not looking to get into racing, but I really love riding trails and singletrack and think biking will be a great way to loose weight. Money is definitely an issue, so I would like to stay on the inexpensive side, as long as things work well.

Thanks so much for your help, and I look forward to hearing from you!

AB

 

[Mellow Yellow]

Your preloads are not set correctly. I weigh 240 as well and rode an Enduro just last week as a rental. The bike was absolutly plush. That's because the bike techs preloaded the shocks fit my weight. Look at Fox Shocks website to see how much air presure is supposed to be in the shock and forks.

 

[No I'm Spartacus]

Should I look into getting a new front fork or look into getting stiffer springs (is that even possible)?

I found the 2000 SX Manual on the Answer website, and there IS a preload adjustment on it -
"Note the 2000 SX LT, SX, and SX R uses compression spring systems in the left leg only. Only the left knob on top of the crown adjusts preload. Rotating the knob clockwise will firm the ride, adding preload to the compression stack. Rotating the knob counter clockwise will soften the ride."

http://www.answerproducts.com/serviceguides.asp?function=64&guideid=104

This may or may not be enough, but I'm pretty sure you could modify the internals a little if you needed to.

 

[debaucherous]

Manitou SX

You need a spring upgrade. If you are on a budget get an extra firm spring installed in the fork. You should be able to have an LBS install one for under $50. The knobs will fine-tune the ride, but can't make up for a softer spring. Most stock Manitous come with a medium spring which is probably good for riders up to about 170.

That said, in my opinion the SX is a little undersized for clydes - but if you don't jump or ride really hard it will be fine. don't get me wrong, I am a huge fan of their stuff and have Manitous on almost all my suspension bikes. I have a Sherman on my ride now.

I don't know a lot about the float R, but unless it doesn't hold air it should be OK.

Good luck.

I found the 2000 SX Manual on the Answer website, and there IS a preload adjustment on it -
"Note the 2000 SX LT, SX, and SX R uses compression spring systems in the left leg only. Only the left knob on top of the crown adjusts preload. Rotating the knob clockwise will firm the ride, adding preload to the compression stack. Rotating the knob counter clockwise will soften the ride."

http://www.answerproducts.com/serviceguides.asp?function=64&guideid=104

This may or may not be enough, but I'm pretty sure you could modify the internals a little if you needed to.

 

[FSRslug]

The Float will handle 300psi without issue, unless seals are bad. That should be enough to handle you. Sag should be 15-25% of total travel, but is all personal preference.

The SX series is not a bad fork, but nowhere near as stiff as others. I rode mt SX-r for a few years without problems. I changed my stock(med) springs/elastomers to the firm and noticed a huge difference. Parts for these are getting harder to find, most suspension manufacturers stock enough spare parts to last an average of 5 years after production ends. I got my set for about $20. A shop shouldnt charge for than $20 to install them($15.99 at mine), but it is a relatively easy change. Topcap unscrews and pull the stack out, grease up the new one and put back in. The is only one leg that the spring stack is in so it will take 10 minutes or less.

hope that helps

 

[BrandonJ]

I'm 250lbs and I have a Manitou Six on my old hardtail. The stock springs for Mantiou forks are only rated for 150-170 pound riders. Preload can only do so much. You really need to go with the spring upgrade. It made a world of difference my me. It cut my number of endos way down.

 

[Soupboy]

I know you have a limited budget

but I'd scour the classifieds for a used Float fork (100-130) or something similar. What was the travel on the 00 Enduro - 100mm?

I also don't remember Speshy ever spec'ing the Manitous on the Enduros...

Per the other posters, unless your seals are trashed the rear Float should be fine for your weight. PUSH changes the damping characteristics but that is a separate discussion.

 

[abroadaw]

Thanks!!! One more question...

Hey Everybody...

Thanks for all of your replies...they have been very helpful. I too found out that even with the preload all the way, the fork was way to soft. Based on reading recommendations here, and the fact that I found a new one for $220, I just bought a new 05 Reba SL, so I really hope that it lives up to its reputation. As far as the rear shock goes, I will try upping the air pressure. I'm not sure how to tell if it is holding air, as every time I put my pump on, it seems to lose a bunch, but I think that is normal?!? Also, it is possible my Supergo shock pump isn't very accurate, but I have no way of knowing.

One more question, if I change the 4-position shock mount, will it change the spring rate and be more effective for my weight? Currently it is at the 69 degree 4.8 inch (I think) setting. Should I set it for the shorter travel setting?

Thanks a bunch!!!

AB

 

[bear]

Hey Everybody... As far as the rear shock goes, I will try upping the air pressure. I'm not sure how to tell if it is holding air, as every time I put my pump on, it seems to lose a bunch, but I think that is normal?!?

Yes, the shock losing pressure is normal as when you attach the pump you're getting air from the shock chamber into the pump chamber. Losing 5-20 lbs is easy, maybe more.

You actually don't tend to lose much when you take the shock off though, so making sure the pressure is right with the shock on is the thing to focus on.

A different shock pump can be a lot more accurate. Some of them have a separate screw to release the pin in the shock valve, before removing the shock. This let's you isolate the air chambers and pre-pressurize the shock when putting it on. Can be very accurate. I got one like this from Performance Bike for like 20 bucks ( Hurricane shock pump I think ) which I am happy with.

The Fox rear shock can take a lot of pressure and abuse. I had an '02 enduro with a Float R on it that got wacky abused out in Moab ( me == 235 w/o gear ) and it never lost a beat or one PSI.

 

[Soupboy]

Yes, you will lower the leverage ratio by dropping to a lower travel setting. This should allow you to run slightly lower PSI but again I really don't think you should be concerned about the shock in the longer travel setting.

One more question, if I change the 4-position shock mount, will it change the spring rate and be more effective for my weight? Currently it is at the 69 degree 4.8 inch (I think) setting. Should I set it for the shorter travel setting?