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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm thinking about getting a -2 degree works components headset for my 2013 Banshee Prime, switching my pike from 140mm to 160mm, and swapping my 780mm 15mm rise bar to 800mmX40mm bar.

How should these changes effect the way my bike rides? What I'm hoping for is a bike that can handle steeper, faster trails a bit better, I'm also thinking that by making these changes I can run the bike in the "high" setting to reduce pedal strikes compared to my current "low" setting.
 

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The bars are going to be substantially higher, and that's going to change the fit of the bike. The fork change will increase the stack of the frame to start with. Then you're adding 25mm of height from the bars. Plus you're lengthening the wheelbase and slackening the seat tube.

Thing is, though, that each change is going to have its own effects and if you make them all at once, you'll be in a rough spot to tease out how each change affected the big picture.

Assuming the fork change is within the range the manufacturer supports, I'd focus on making only a single change at a time so I could figure out what might be "too far" and back off on a single change if it exceeds that point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Harold: Banshee says I can go up to a 160mm fork, which I've done before when riding at the resort a lot. When I did that it made the bottom bracket slightly higher, but I couldn't really tell how much difference the bike felt because of it.

I feel like I don't notice changes to bike geometry as much as others do though, probably because I've ridden so many different bikes throughout the years that I adjust quickly??? But I have ridden DH bikes a few times and found them to dramatically change how big features "feel" when compared to my Banshee, I'm sure the travel had a lot to do with it, but I suspect the slacked out geo did as well.

The reason for taller bars is because I've always felt like my bars are lower than what I would like to have, the Prime was purposefully designed to have the same size headtube length across all sizes so short people who like long bikes could ride an XL if they wanted too. . .unfortunately it means I run a very long headtube spacer and my bars still feel low which causes some serious pain in my neck when I'm doing long climbs.
 

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The reason for taller bars is because I've always felt like my bars are lower than what I would like to have, the Prime was purposefully designed to have the same size headtube length across all sizes so short people who like long bikes could ride an XL if they wanted too. . .unfortunately it means I run a very long headtube spacer and my bars still feel low which causes some serious pain in my neck when I'm doing long climbs.
The reason I brought it up is because lengthening the fork will ALSO affect bar height on its own. So combining the increase in stack with the taller bars is a big change in bar height. Do one at a time and see if you need more.

There becomes a point, though, where trying to make too many changes to what you have to try to force an issue means that you probably ought to be on a different bike with a different fit/characteristics, anyway. If the mfr has no problem with that fork travel change, then I'm not so concerned about that by itself. But it sounds like fit is a bigger issue, and also possibly just the handling/ride characteristics, too.

Maybe the combination of raising the front end with the longer fork and higher rise bars will work for you. And with a bunch of steerer spacers, you have the ability to tweak things down if it goes too high. It's entirely possible that those changes will negatively impact the bike's ability to climb in a pretty serious way. The front end will probably be notably lighter, which means increasing the chances for things like front end wander, unwanted front wheel lifting on climbs, etc. How much climbing do you do on this bike?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I rarely shuttle, so I do a lot of climbing. I'm going to change the travel on the fork today to see how that effects the ride, which I did yesterday.

I'd love to get a new bike, but this bike is still in great condition despite years of mistreating it. I'd love to throw my leg over a Megatower, Bronson or Nomad to see how those ride with such long reach and slacked out HTA. . . but that's not going to happen.

I do wonder how these new enduro race machines ride being so long and slack, I feel like the Banshee Prime is a stick to the ground and roll over everything bike as is, I'd really like to have a bike that feels more playful, but it also stable at high speeds. . . but maybe those two attributes are mutually exclusive?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Clothing Tire Bicycle wheel Wheel Bicycle frame


Here is a pic of me on my bike, the fork is set to 140mm of travel and the dropouts are set to the "low" setting. Notice the 80mm headtube spacer and that the saddle, dropped 125mm, is the same height as my bars.
 

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Sounds like you are trying to make your existing bike into something it isnt designed for.
Sell it and buy new updated geo and suspension tech. Dont sink money into an old out of date design.
 

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Those are some drastic changes to make all at once. I would think the combination of all those would make climbing more work than it is now.

Can't really tell from your pic...but it looks like you have a large stack of spacers under the stem already.
 

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U sayin' Bolt ?
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If you are going for a position more like Peaty, which sounds right if you are aiming to attack steep downhills, notice how much more his knees are bent. Instead on trying to bring the bike up to you, drop your hips, lower you center of gravity and use all that space.

Be like Gwin.
 

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Going to have to agree with Harold and the others, doing all those changes at once will make a major difference and you won't be able to tell what, did what. I say if the fork can be internally changed, then do that first, see how it feels, then try the higher rise stem if the bar still feels to low and then the angleset if it still doesn't feel slack enough.

Personally, I find the Prime slack enough as is in the slack position with a 150mm fork, 2.3" rear/2.5" front, so about a 66.7-67* HTA, absolutely no lack of confidence on the reallllllly steep stuff we have here, but still let's you be the reason you make it down, not just a super raked out geo. Running the Prime like that doesn't effect climbing much, but it definitely does not climb as good as with a 140mm fork in the steep setting.
 
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