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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is for everyone. What is on your bike that you know a die hard weight weenie would say something like, "dude why don't you dump that banna seat".
So what can you not part with? Streamers, fenders?
For me I'm running lock on grips I just seem to twist everything else up.
Some may say my fork is almost 200 grams on the heavy side. But I'm fine with it.
I even have a set of slick Ti pedals that I've only run for a month because I would have to switch cleats and I've got 520's on one bike and 540's on the other so I'll probably only switch for the big races. even with a few of my oddities I'm under 20 lbs for a pretty good price.
So let's hear it I can't wait.:p
 

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A wheelist
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Milkman said:
This is for everyone. What is on your bike that you know a die hard weight weenie would say something like, "dude why don't you dump that banna seat".
So what can you not part with? Streamers, fenders? So let's hear it I can't wait.
My disc brakes, lock-on grips, ting-ting trail bell, two spare tubes, oh yeah and the streamers. :rolleyes:
 

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Durability. I would never be able to race a hardtail with ZTR rims. WCS stems are flexy for me as 70 kg of pure muscle. :rolleyes: Real tires that actually grip into the earth :skep: Maxxis Flyweights :nono:
 

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All good answeres. I have to say I agree with many . . .

Lock On Grips
Fork (PUSHed Fox F100RLT)
UST Tires (Weight means very little when I'm walking it out)
Brakes (Hope Mono Minis)
Hubs (Chris King ISO)

I know I just made some folks crings with the idea of these heavy parts. The Racer X is currently 24.9 pounds.
 

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For me it isn't about sip. I am a confessed gear junky, I'll change parts out one month. I don't want to mess with hairspray or compressed air just to get grips off. 2 little bolts and the grips slide off easily. Maybe not a great reason for everyone but my best reaosn none the less.
 

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Music & Bikes
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There is two things on my bike that are sacrifice for weight , other things are light weight stuff.
These are my seat ,the best thing I have on my 4 bikes , wish I have money to buy 4 of 'em : Brooks Ti

Rohloff Speedhub, heavier than my ex XTR/cross max setup but so much better/troubleless......
 

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I wouldn't sacrifice my dog for weight. Otherwise, every part is fair game if I can shave grams off. However, the rules maybe different for someone heavier (I'm a lightweight).
 

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Maromero
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My DT XR 4.1 are heavier than a lot of rims, but they stay true, so even if they mean 120 gr over ZTR they are ghoing to be on my bike, as well as the Nobby Nic-Racing Ralph combo over the Maxxlite's 310's, which don't give me enough grip over most of the trails I do.
 

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For me a good tire is better than a light tire. What good is the lighter tire if it grips less that than heavier one that you'll ride faster on? I also have a heavier fork (Marathon XC), but it provides for a very confortable ride and is very versatile in the types of riding conditions I can tackle with it.
 

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Weight Weenie Shop Owner
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Things I won't give up....

  1. Disc Brakes
  2. UST rims (until something comes out that is truly better.)
  3. Saddles that are comfortable
  4. Fox Forks
  5. Real tires for real condtions
  6. Drivetrain items and gearings that work for me
  7. UST tires for 80% of my riding.
My MTB is 19.42lbs and could go lighter if I sacrificed a few itmes for the sake of it. The things is bombproof in almost every area.

The Roadie is 13.62lbs and I really don't have many options left that are not too pricey. I could get lighter bars, by I will not give up my ZIPP Flat top bars or my Look Kéo pedals. Only place I can truly drop weight is the seatpost witha Ax-Lightness, but I don't wnat to spend $300 on a post.

Bike is very light and DURABLE!!!
 

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To me, in racing everything is a compromise. If you save 30 seconds on a climb just to lose two minutes on the descent, you've done something wrong in your build. But I see no reason to haul a triple-ply 2.5" tire on a steel rim to the top of the hill either. I try to find the tire with the lowest weight and least rolling resistance for the terrain I'm riding in. For most XC courses, a 450-520g tire is adequate, for some super fast, non-technical courses, I don't hesistate to pull out the 335g Fast Freds, but for epic, rocky course I'm looking at a 550-620g tire. You need the right tool for the job to get across the line in first.

For forks, I'm not willing to go with something too flexy to save grams, but again, compromise comes into play. If the course is technical with lots of challenging downhills, out comes the Talus. If it's a lot of climbing with fairly non-technical descents, the RC-39 does just fine.

Most everything else is consistently the lightest thing I can find that works and doesn't let me down. Magura brakes, Easton bars, EB ti pedals & XTR cranks. Nothing record settingly light, but light and able to get me both up and down the hills fast.
 

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Recovering couch patato
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-Grip, to a degree
-Rolling resistance/roll-over. Like smaller wheels would sacrifice :)
-Comfortable seat (grams are nog worth pain)
-Eggbeater ease of engage/release
-Increasingly so as I get spoiled : wide and swept handlebars, like 25º+. Broomsticks are light, and nothing else, ergonomically totally wrong. A good bar makes you faster.
-Using too little tubeless sealent (I've done that more than once)
-A bottle cage that actually holds a botle.
-Also, drilled water bottles are not worth it to me anymore.
 

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Recovering couch patato
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New addintions after today's experiences :
- seat clamps with small allen bolts that can't take the the torque and strip heads, or the post slips.
- alu cassettes that don't allow more than 300W input without the chain skipping.
- rear hubs with semi-engagement after each time you coasted.
- alu bolts that brake before they reach optimal torque to clamp a V cable. I broke 2 in a week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
now you tell me

Cloxxki said:
New addintions after today's experiences :
- alu bolts that brake before they reach optimal torque to clamp a V cable. I broke 2 in a week.
Funny you mention that. I came up with the idea for this thread while I was removing and measuring bolts for both of my bikes getting ready to make the plunge into the bolt swap. I think I might pass on the whole ordeal but I've got some stock bolts that rusted in a year and look like crap so I figured if I'm going to be replacing bolts I'll upgrade to some ti and al.:madman:
 
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