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IFSDlxSS IFTiFLWMtb GFAdv
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any suggestions please? Reasons for choosing some over others? I know people have mentioned DT Swiss or Wheelsmith. Which exact spoke model? I know some are lighter, thicker, thinner, double butted, etc.

I'm building my first dedicated SS wheelset so any input is much appreciated.

Til now, I've been using my geared wheelset that I converted 9 to 1. I'm using DT Rev's which are very light but I'm worried about durability for SSing purposes. I'd like the wheels to be durable but I also don't want them to weigh 10lbs. What is a good balance between durability and weight?

Thanks in advance.
 

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mudnthebloodnthebeer
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Another vote for the DT Revolution 1.8/1.5/1.8. I've got about 1500 miles on a pair of 29'er wheels that I haven't had to touch since day one. I was a bit aprehensive building them that light given my considerable bulk (200 lb. of rider and 20 lb. of energy reserves stored in metabolized beer deposits) but a local wheelbuilder whose opinion I value assured me that they'd work just fine in a tight, evenly tensioned wheel. The rest of the story is: Salsa Delgado disc rims laced 3X to King ISO disc hubs, brass nips, and tension at the upper end of the recommended range (away from my shop so I don't have the numbers).

My objective was to overcome the sluggish wheel syndrome that seems to be a fairly common perception of new 29'er riders. The wheels are considerably livelier than the stock equipment, but there's a notable lateral flex in them cornering hard at speed. I'm not sufficiently experienced with 29er's to know if this is just a function of the larger diameter of the wheel. Bottom line is that they do what I built them to do without being the least bit fiddly. When I rebuild my 26" wheels this summer I won't hesitate to replace the 2.0 DT Comps with the Revolutions.
 

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Stick with the Revos . . .

Spidey-Lag said:
Any suggestions please? Reasons for choosing some over others? I know people have mentioned DT Swiss or Wheelsmith. Which exact spoke model? I know some are lighter, thicker, thinner, double butted, etc.

I'm building my first dedicated SS wheelset so any input is much appreciated.

Til now, I've been using my geared wheelset that I converted 9 to 1. I'm using DT Rev's which are very light but I'm worried about durability for SSing purposes. I'd like the wheels to be durable but I also don't want them to weigh 10lbs. What is a good balance between durability and weight?

Thanks in advance.
The biggest advantage of having a SS specific hub over converting a 9v hub is the wider flange spacing, which makes for a wheel with less dish, which makes for a stronger stiffer wheel.

If the Revos work well for you on your current setup, they should work even better on the low-dish or no-dish SS wheels.
 

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...
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eggraid101 said:
What's so great about alloy nipples?
They break a lot more often than brass nips, they're more prone to chemically bond to alloy rims, and they're easier to round out.

What's not to like about alloy nipples?
They save a couple of grams. If you want lightweight, they're great. If you don't plan of trashing your wheels in a couple of years, stick with brass.

And to whoever is using Alpines, awesome.
 

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Harrumph
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I’d recommend double butted spokes from any of the big companies: DT/Wheelsmith/Sipam. Make sure the threads are rolled, not cut. 2.0-1.8(or1.7 depending on brand)-2.0 is the best balance IMO. Having the bend and threads at 2.0 are more valuable than the 30-40 grams per wheel you would see with a 1.8-1.6-1.8. And the same goes for Al nipples, 30-40 grams per wheel comes with a hefty trade off in reliability. I’ll admit that 120 grams of rotating weight is substantial. But the build quality and the eventual ride quality will suffer in the long run. I’ve built up MTB wheels with a light hub/rims/2cross/Al nipples/and thin spokes. Sure they were light, but I found I had to pick my way through terrain and the tension had to be pretty high to make the wheel acceptably stiff. And when you run a bunch of thin spokes at a high tension with Al nipples it’s a time bomb-especially on an MTB. If you bend the wheel or lose one spoke, it’s going to implode. So trading that few grams for a no worry’s wheel is going to be worth it, especially on for fun SS. Save the funky wheels for the road.
 

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viva la v-brakes!
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I have been riding DT comp with Al nipples all around without too much trouble really. I think the DT nipples are much less prone to rounding then some others I've tried.

But I want a tougher, stiffer, tubeless wheelset so I'm building up a pair with Mavic 819 rims. I plan on putting brass nipples in back for easier tweaking and Al nipples up front. In my experience it takes a pretty hard hit to knock the front wheel out of true, but the rear wheel needs tuning once in a while, and thus the more durable brass back there.
 

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As with anything your mileage may vary . . .
If you do go with the Revo's, I would definitely recommend the 2.0/1.5/2.0 over the 1.8/1.5/1.8s that others have mentioned here. G-reg, in his post above, has it right about the higher reliability of having 2mm of material at the bend and at the nipple.

The question of Alloy vs. Brass nips is one of tradeoffs. Me? I go alloy for weight savings. But I only weigh 140lbs, and use V-brakes. I know that Im going to wear down my sidewalls in two years (on the long end), and need to rebuild the wheels anyway. If I were running discs and could reasonably expect longer rim life, brass nips might hold more allure for me.

The type of brakes you use should probably play a role in your decision too. If you're running discs, you should probably not go with the Revo's. I think the DT Supercomps would be a better way to go.

The Alpine III spokes that a couple of people here have mentioned? That's crazy talk. They are total overkill, and will make your wheels pig-heavy. WAAAYYY overkill.
 

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Keep on Rockin...
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You're missing a big point...

One of the joys of SS is building dishless wheels (both front and rear if V brake and at least the rear with disk hubs). That allows you to build an equally strong wheel with lighter rims and spokes. One of the big benefits of SSing is having a lighter bike and wheelset. Trust me, you'll need it if you want to push a real gear on real climbs. IMO anything heavier than 2.0-1.8 butted spokes on a dishless wheel is overkill for SS riding.
 

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IFSDlxSS IFTiFLWMtb GFAdv
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242 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thank you for all your replies!

Thanks for the replies everyone. I think for my purposes I'll be able to use wheelsmith XL14s. They are the same size as DT revs but almost half the price.

Now, to alloy or not to alloy is my remaining decision to make.

I've used the current setup since september 2006 with no problems so I think I'll try to replicate the setup but this time with a dedicated SS hub. I even raced it in a short track race with no issues at all back in December.

Since it will be dishless as was mentioned earlier, the wheel should be stiffer.

I'll be lacing the wheels this weekend as soon as my rims come in. Pics of the completed SS wheel project to follow...

Thanks again for everyone's input!

SS Wheel build:
rims - XC 717 Disc
Hubs - CK iso disc front/SS disc rear
spokes - Wheelsmith XL14
nipples - alloy or brass???
 

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spokes

I use DT Comps 14/15/14 That said, wheel strength really depends on rim section. When I raced I use alloy nipples, because my wheels did last that long. But in regard brass nipples allow the builder to bring the spoke tension high without nipple failure. Its a good reason to use brass nipples.

vtw
 
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