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What size Mojo for 6'2"-6'3" Rider?

1720 Views 15 Replies 10 Participants Last post by derby, Dec 16, 2008

iheartbicycles

Discussion Starter · Dec 15, 2008

No other info given on purpose. I want to see overall/average views.

I think I bought the wrong size Mojo!:madman:

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YZF571

· #2 · Dec 15, 2008

In spite of the fact that most advise a L, or even a M for me at 6', 185# with a 33"(ish) inseam I went with an XL. It is a tad smaller than my 21.5" Trek Liquid, the Trek feels a bit large for me but not as bad a the 19" felt as it was just to small. Anyway based on that I went with the XL Mojo, and man am I glad I did. It is absolutely perfect for me. Even with the XL I have the seat pretty far back, and I think the best set-up for is going to prove to be 90mm neck with Hi-Rise Bars.
I must say though everythng I read, and am told points toward a smaller bike for me, I just like them big. Maybe because of my Moto background?

d-bug

· #3 · Dec 15, 2008

iheartbicycles said:
No other info given on purpose. I want to see overall/average views.

I think I bought the wrong size Mojo!:madman:

I think you're about the same size as me, I've got an XL.
I demo'd a L, then XL, then L again. Each time I was on the L I had bad downhill experiences. I felt like I was going to go OTB all the time, and almost did a few times. I never felt like that on the XL. Standing and pedaling on the L also felt like the front wheel was too close to me. Although since it was a demo bike, I never did get to set it up like I would have liked. The steer tube was cut too short, which probably added to the OTB feeling.

The L felt great for everything except the steeper downhill stuff, and for that reason alone I went XL.
I have no regrets getting the XL. I'm pretty sure I would have regrets if I went with the L.
I've been thinking about getting a L and building it up light for those long rides, like the Skeggs to HMB ride, and endurance races. But I really don't think I need it.....

If you're ever in the area, let me know and you can take a spin on my XL.

-Dan

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Lelandjt

· #4 · Dec 15, 2008

I'm 6'2" and got an XL. Every dimension is almost identical to my large Yeti 575.

AussieRider

· #5 · Dec 15, 2008

I'm 6'2" and got an XL, 100mm stem & zero setback post & very happy

Scott from Ibis actually recommended a L but LBS said XL

LyNx

· #6 · Dec 15, 2008

I'd say you definitely bought the wrong bike, should have been one of the many 4,5 or 6" travel 29ers

XL of course.

sadgit

· #7 · Dec 15, 2008

I'm 187cm and got an L.

I think body configuration is more important than absolute height. I have a 100mm stem and am thinking I could go 90mm.

When you ride the bike do you find it too small - or are you spooked to even try it?

I would argue you are only possibly and not definitely XL size.

Ro.nin

· #8 · Dec 15, 2008

sadgit said:
I'm 187cm and got an L.

I think body configuration is more important than absolute height. I have a 100mm stem and am thinking I could go 90mm.

What he said.

I'm 187cm too and got an L. Running a 90mm stem and thinking of getting an 80mm for certain trails.

But yeah, body config is crucial - I got most of my height in my legs - got a 35" inseam.
So, shorter top tubes work for me and the bike is wonderful for throwing it around. I'm killing on downhills on that bike.

I've tried a buddy's XL, with a 100mm stem, and it was like steering a bus.

I wasn't a fan of smaller bikes - but I think the skiing rule applies here too: when in doubt, go smaller.

Lelandjt

· #9 · Dec 15, 2008

I notice that a lot of people on this forum use 90+mm stems. Have you ever ridden a bike with a short stem? The reason play bikes have 40-50mm stems is they feel so much better. Get a long top tube to stretch yourself out on and a 80mm or shorter stem and your bike will be more fun to jump, decend, and even turn on. I use a 70mm on my Mojo XL with a Maverick DUC32.

iheartbicycles

Discussion Starter · #10 · Dec 15, 2008 (Edited)

Lelandjt said:
I notice that a lot of people on this forum use 90+mm stems. Have you ever ridden a bike with a short stem? The reason play bikes have 40-50mm stems is they feel so much better. Get a long top tube to stretch yourself out on and a 80mm or shorter stem and your bike will be more fun to jump, decend, and even turn on. I use a 70mm on my Mojo XL with a Maverick DUC32.

That's the issue. When I test rode the Mojo I rode a large with a Vanalla 32 on it. 140 mil in the front with a 110 mil stem.

The bike fit.

When I built mine, I built it with a 36 TALAS with 160 mil and a short 90 mil stem.

Now in order for the bike to fit me, I've had to run the seat all the way back in the rails. This means my butt is way over the rear wheel and it upsets pedalling dynamics quite a bit.

I could skoot the seat forward to where it's comfortable for my lower body, but then my top tube would be cramped.

I just talked to Tom at Ibis he said to run a longer stem. This doesn't seem like a good option given the way I built the bike. - big heavy fork, heavy build.

The other option he gave wasn't very good either. I may be looking for a new frame, again, in the near future.

Thanks to all who posted. You all confirmed what I was thinking.:madman:

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getbusyliving

· #11 · Dec 15, 2008

Keep in mind that the Mojo was designed around a suggested 90-110 stem length sweet spot. This has been mentioned by Ibis in several discussions here. Not that you can't/shouldn't run shorter (or longer) stems, but just something to keep in mind. Shorter stem certainly provides benefits, but there are costs as well. The "right" answer obviously depends on your riding style/personal preference.

Lelandjt

· #12 · Dec 15, 2008

I don't see any "costs" to a shorter stem so long as you've planned in advance and bought a frame with a long enough top tube to get comfortably stretched out on climbs. I also can't see why a manufacturer would "recommend" a particular stem length. That's like recommending a handlebar width or height. If you try bikes with different cockpits you'll feel the different handling traits. I'm not the only one who is running wide bars and short stems on XC bikes these days although I am in the minority in that I still like a low bar.

Lelandjt

· #13 · Dec 15, 2008

iheartbicycles, Mojos command a pretty good resale price. It will cost you but I recommend selling your frame and getting a X-large SL. You'll like the ride better.

getbusyliving

· #14 · Dec 16, 2008

Lelandjt said:
I don't see any "costs" to a shorter stem so long as you've planned in advance and bought a frame with a long enough top tube to get comfortably stretched out on climbs.

I'm not really qualified to debate physics, and I'm not even arguing that the OP shouldn't go with larger frame---but I would argue that there is indeed a tradeoff to be considered. With longer TT and shorter stem, I certainly agree that you can easily achieve the same reach (vs. shorter TT / longer stem).

But assuming your seat rail position is fitted properly on both, you are weighted further back behind your front wheel w/ long TT/short stem. This generally provides benefit of more controlled feeling on the descent, but at the cost of a lighter front end on steep climbs. You also have longer wheel base w/ longer TT, which is better for straight-line descents, but not as nimble on the tight 'n twisty.

Neither setup is better or worse, just different and depends on personal preference.

Lelandjt

· #15 · Dec 16, 2008 (Edited)

True, longer wheelbases don't take tight corners as well. If you're over 6'1" and want a comfortable climber you gotta get length somewhere though. When I ride my old XC bike that is now a towny I can't imagine how I trail rode it with that 110mm stem. Feels like a tiller. The handlebars swing back and forth rather than pivoting in the middle. XL frames require leaning forward and loading the fork to get around tight turns (feels like a moto) but the benefit of the long front-center (the distance from the BB to front axle) is less endo action with the same height fork/handlebar.

P.S. My dirtjump/slalom bike is a medium with a 40mm stem but it feels so cramped when I climb on it.

derby

· #16 · Dec 16, 2008

iHeart - before spending a lot of time and money on a different frame, try lowering the stem/bars 1/2 inch to get your upper body weight lower like the longer stem does. Yes you have to bend your elbows a little more when steep climbing than using a longer stem or longer TT with shorter stem.

I’m 6’1 and shortened my original 90mm stem to a 60mm and bumped the seat back ½ inch from post centered and lowered the stem/bars ½ inch. The Mojo climbs so easily there was not much loss there, and I don’t mind hiking those killer steep ups. And now hard braking and steep downhill are much improved. I’ve got a quick drop seat post and adjustable travel fork up to 160mm (Nixon coil130-160).

I could see going to an XL with this short stem, especially if I did more wide open high speed, but my backyard trail loop has 44 tight switchbacks that a longer wheelbase wouldn’t like. Also the Lopes Link with a stiff fork makes high speed more precise and easier with the shorter wheelbase.

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