[msiddens]

I recently purchased a WI ENO SS crank for my Santa Cruz Chameleon. I also bought a RaceFace Taperlock in a 113mm. I was bummed to find it's barely too short to clear the lizards chainstays. In looking for anther RaceFace BB I was shocked to only find a 120MM available. I'm concerned this is too much and was wondering what other riders thought?

I pinged Lynette at WI and she seemed to agree with a shorter size being more appropriate. Now I'm left searching for a BB that will fit but the only maker that comes to mind is Phil.....a beauty but $$$.

Thoughts???

 

[mtbdirteater]

I recently purchased a WI ENO SS crank for my Santa Cruz Chameleon. I also bought a RaceFace Taperlock in a 113mm. I was bummed to find it's barely too short to clear the lizards chainstays. In looking for anther RaceFace BB I was shocked to only find a 120MM available. I'm concerned this is too much and was wondering what other riders thought?

I'm curious, what is your chainline now with the ENO cranks and that 113mm square taper BB? You would be talking 3.5mm wider chainline with the 120mm BB, but could find others that are in between. You may need that 3.5mm on each side to clear your chainstays though. I really like those cranks, but I'm concerned about the one peice chainwheel for spacing purposes and doesn't look like I could bolt a bash onto it.

If you do go with a Phil BB, you will love it, but you need a special tool to install or remove it, or a shop that has one.

Cheers,

Dave

 

[xrmattaz]

Spindles

ENO cranks equal 118mm's on my Surly/Momma's Retrotec. 122mm on the Vulture.

 

[mtbdirteater]

OK, answered my own question...

... by looking on the White Industries website. Looks like chainline is 47.5mm with a 113mm BB spindle, go with a wider BB to adjust Q-factor (and chainline) accordingly for your frame clearance:

Chainline offset: 47.5mm from the center of the BB shell to the chainring

Bottom bracket: The ENO crank is designed with an extremely low Q factor. With a 68mm BB shell we recommend a 113mm square tapered bottom bracket, however, some frames have wider chainstays and need a longer BB.

By simply taking a few measurements on your frame you can determine a suitable BB spindle length for your frame.

First measure from the center of the BB shell back along the chainstay 180mm. At that point measure across the stays. Your measurement should be from the outside of the stay to the opposing outside stay. If the measurement is 135mm or less, use a 113mm BB.

If your measurement is higher than 135mm, then add the difference to the base 113mm to determine you BB length. For instance, if the chainstay measurement is 140mm then the BB length would be 118mm.

So out of curiousity, I just measured my (2005, 110mm rear spacing, steel) Monocog. The stays are (only) 100mm wide (apart) at the 180mm back point. Sure seems like I could reduce the Q-factor and get a perfect chainline on that bike with a narrower BB spindle if I ever put some Eno cranks on it someday. The rear hub chainline measurement on my 110mm spacing Phil Wood hub (the original Redline hub was the same) is 43mm.

Uh, thread hijack in progress... so with White Industries numbers (47.5mm chainline with 113mm spindle width) and my math (47.5mm - 43mm = 4.5mm... x 2 = 9mm accounting for both sides, so 113mm - 9mm = 104mm spindle width...), I can tell that I would need a 104mm wide square taper BB spindle to get a 43mm chainline on that bike... there is about 12mm of chainstay clearance to spare now (with a 47.5mm chainline) with a 32T chainring on the inside of my crank spider, 4.5mm of which would be eaten up by narrowing the Q-factor... and (135mm - 9mm = 126mm, - 100mm = 26mm /2 = aprox. 13mm chainstay clearance on each side of this Monocog chainstay... I have 26mm on the left and 21mm chainstay clearance on the right now @ 47.5mm chainline from two 2.5mm BB spacers on the left, one on the right with these worthless Sh!tmano XT M760 cranks that have a wider Q-factor by comparison than any 100+mm wide BB DH bike that I ever rode... did I ever mention that I hate Shimano? ...the last Shimano part on that bike.

Very interesting...

You know all this measurement and math occurred with only one beer?

Should be easy to figure what you need to do on your Chameleon with ENO cranks now based on all this though, easier still if you can adjust your rear chainline with spacers.

Screw the spell-check, you get the idea.

Cheers,

Dave

 

[msiddens]

Hey Dave,

I'm confused but very entertained Thanks for the good read.

Marc

 

[mtbdirteater]

Hey Dave,

I'm confused but very entertained Thanks for the good read.

Marc

Hey Marc, you need a wider bottom bracket.

You may have to drink more to compensate for your offset chainline, however.

Dave

 

[DMFT]

- What Hub are you going to use? I hope you don't say White Ind. It won't work because the hub carries the freewheel 4 - 5 mm further inboard than every other hub out there, and with the wide BB you'll need to clear the fat chainstay's the chainline will not line up. * Unless White has changed something in the last year....
I'd say a cassette style hub will be your best bet to attain a perfect chainline.

 

[msiddens]

It's a Paul WORD hub with a White Industries Freewheel. I've already tried a 113mm BB and it almost clears with good chain alignment. I can't seem to find a decent 116 or 118 out there unless I bump to Phil which I'm considering doing! The RaceFace Taperlocks I've found are all either 113 OR 120. Stinking Lizard chainstays are jut SOOOO massive!

 

[DMFT]

I'd go for the......

Phil Wood.
Shimano still has the good ol' UN72 I believe.

- Yes, the stays are so stinkin' massive I couldn't run a White Hub/Crank/Freewheel combo, the chailine was WAY whacked. You'll be Ok with the Paul hub, though things
will be a little tight with your crankarm/chainstay/heels.