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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for the guesses but nobody wins a cigar. Sun-Ringle emailed me back today. Here is their response.

Max tension is 100-110kgf.

Eric

Technical Support l Hayes Bicycle
Phone 888-686-3472
Hayes Performance Systems l 5800 W Donges Bay Rd Mequon WI 53092 United States.

Brown Amber Black Technology Metal


I had it set at 120kgf according to my Park Tool tension meter. About seven of them did this.
 

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The Park tensio is good for relative numbers but not so much for absolutes.
I was in the market for a tensio meter and was looking @ the park unit. I asked a local builder (experienced) what he thought of the Park unit " it has numbers and maybe you can get numbers similar but what they actually relate to..." I think he was telling me it wasn't that accurate.
 

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As Mike said, it's good to check the relative tensions of the spokes to each other on a build, but not sure I really trust it - I have 2, they both read different. I bought it when I first started building and fixing my own and friends wheels about 11 years ago, haven't actually used it but to check relative tension sometimes of spokes to each other, set actual tension by feel, once I do my hard de-tensioning when it feels like it's up to proper tension and get no/maybe 1 pops/pings, then I'm right where I need to be for a strong wheel.

I was in the market for a tensio meter and was looking @ the park unit. I asked a local builder (experienced) what he thought of the Park unit " it has numbers and maybe you can get numbers similar but what they actually relate to..." I think he was telling me it wasn't that accurate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm also wondering if my choice of spokes could have contributed to the rim cracking around the spoke holes. I used Sapim Strong which are a single butted spoke with 13g head and elbows then straight 14g the rest of the way. I weigh 250-260# with hydration pack. This was the rear wheel. I just replaced the rim but re-used the same spokes. I'm wondering if I should change the spokes to Sapim Race DB spokes.
When I rebuilt the wheel I did set the tension at 107kg/f with my park tool tension meter. Am I over thinking this and will I be fine with the current spokes or should I change them? I see that Nobl wheels says not to use 14g straight gauge spokes because it will cause the to crack and it will void their warranty if you use them.
 

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Yeah. IMO, skinny spokes are more elastic so help distribute loads among themselves when a rim deflects. Since the large majority of spoke breakage is at the nipple, head, or bend, rims crack at the nipple, and hub flanges break, straight gauge spokes are addling material where it is actually counterproductive for spoke, rim and hub longevity.
 
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