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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
what headset would allow a 66 to be mounted on the 6.6 with enough clearance for the fork?

I remember reading about problems with the Cane Creek headsets, would FSA zero stack work(if there is such a thing?)



ideally i would like a flush/integrated headset, but this might do well too..

 

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Hi, I just jest set up my as well. And I am still not confidence with the CC after reading the articles. As a result, i installed FSA Orbit Extreme Pro 1.5R on my Intense 6.6. On the other hands, u will also see a lot of 6.6 or uzzi owner are using CC headset. It depends on your decision.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
soona said:
Hi, I just jest set up my as well. And I am still not confidence with the CC after reading the articles. As a result, i installed FSA Orbit Extreme Pro 1.5R on my Intense 6.6. On the other hands, u will also see a lot of 6.6 or uzzi owner are using CC headset. It depends on your decision.....
hmmm i like CC, they're on all my other bikes. but as the 6.6 is 1.5" and the others are 1.125", doesn't make much sense in keeping with CC. sometimes my forks get swapped for one reason or another...anyway, this is the one i was actually considering....



called the FSA Orbit Z Internal Reducer Headset 1.5
shallower cups, seems like the 20+mm deep cups could have been part of the CC issue?
Anway it's cheaper too!
 

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TurnURComputerOff&GoRide
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Here’s my limited experience – which seems to be at odds with others – so take it as just 1 persons experience – and I really don’t know what I’m talking about – but what the hell, I will try and put down how the two headsets I used changed the feel of the bike….

With a Fox VAN36, I started off with the Cane Creek DoubleX – not flush/full size headset.
For me, the distance from Axle to crown race plus the headset had the head up just too high. It made the bike great for downhill, but on twisty single track with gullies and plenty of uphill components it was too hard to get over the front of the bike. i.e. after coming down through a tight gully, on the way out of the gully/up it felt like the front of the bike was getting away from me and very hard to get over the top to control it. It was even harder when coming to a sharp hairpin turn on an uphill section.
So I changed to the FSA 1.5R flush headset. Although this is really only about 15mm stack height difference, it lowered the front of the bike and noticeably changed the geometry. The upside is that it made the bike very comfortable to ride through the gullies and I could easily get up and around the hairpin corners I was previously struggling with. The downside was that the bike was not as “choppered out” making it slightly less confident on the downhill. But the difference was fairly slight. It’s also a bit quicker or “flighty” on the steering. For me the balance of the bike was a little better and it was easier to pop the front wheel up when I needed to.

To sum all that up, what I found…

- With a long stack height the fork was more choppered out and the bike was better for downhill, but difficult on sharp changing terrain when you hit the uphill parts. Obviously lots of people like this as that seems to be kind of what the new Slopestyle 6.6 is going for (hence the name).
- With a slight reduction in stack height the angles change by probably a degree and the single track changing gradient stuff felt more comfortable.

So… Flush headset or not – think about the height of the front of the bike, angle of the forks and how that will fit your riding style.

I guess the better way to go is an adjustable fork so that if you have a ride that you know you will struggle to get over the top of the front of the bike, then just drop the fork a little bit for that ride.

Then from my experience with FSA and CC.
I really liked the CC water and dust seal (compared to FSA) – that blue plastic ring. As long as when you install it, you get no grease or dirt into it, it then fits snug and works well. The FSA came with a rubber ring thing that doesn’t stay on all the time and comparatively offers little protection from dirt and water.
I liked the FSA headset cups – they were more solid than the CC.
The CC crown race was heavier duty than the FSA.
Both of them squeezed into my head tube without a problem and were very easy to install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
soona said:
If the rest of your bike are using 1" 1/8" Headset and Forks, you can consider the following ...
http://www.canecreek.com/double_x_flush.html
(Looking for One Point Five Conversion which is suitable for 1 1/8" Forks)

For the FSA, u must looking for the model which have 1.5R (R stands for reduce)
which is suitable for 1 1/8" forks.

Currently, i am using FSA Orbit Extreme Pro 1.5R
http://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=product&taxid=65&pid=244

I hope it will help you....
i've seen those but wouldn't this work?

http://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.aspx?layout=product&taxid=65&pid=246

i've searched the forum and haven't found anything more but the 'CC Syndrome'.
 

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If running a SMALL frame if you want fork clearance you NEED to use a NO FLUSH headset, we've done a number of the frames and never had an issue running a Cane Creek as far as the frame goes. Grease the head tube before installing the headset and it will slide in fine. If you want to keep your bars low you can go for a headset with a flush top bearing and an external for clearance of the fork and downtube. Here's a photo of mine done that way. Look at these heasets http://www.competitivecyclist.com/z...RD&PRODUCT.ID=1997&CATEGORY.ID=553&MODE=&TFC= and this one works too http://www.competitivecyclist.com/z...RD&PRODUCT.ID=2753&CATEGORY.ID=548&MODE=&TFC=

Someone makes a heaset that comes as a flush top and a bottom external there is a thread here somewhere that has a link to it. If going with a flush heaset the crown (or adjusting knobs) will contact the downtube, on our demo small 6.6 we installed a CC lower headset cup that was external to allow for clearance on the FOX 36Talas, the mediums clear just fine with a flush headset.
 

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On my wife's small 6.6 we were able to get away w/ the flush lower cup. She is running an Allmountain1 and the adjuster knobs 'just' clear the dt. With a wider stance fork (ie Marz 66 etc) there would be no clearance and the crown would hit the dt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
1soulrider said:
On my wife's small 6.6 we were able to get away w/ the flush lower cup. She is running an Allmountain1 and the adjuster knobs 'just' clear the dt. With a wider stance fork (ie Marz 66 etc) there would be no clearance and the crown would hit the dt.
thanks all, i'll look around for the external bottom/internal top headset and post it when i find it :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
misctwo said:
thanks all, i'll look around for the external bottom/internal top headset and post it when i find it :thumbsup:
so here's my plan, if it's doable?

use the Cane Creek ZS2 Zero Stack Headset for the top race:



install the Wheels Manufacturing Headset Reducer:



and finally install the Cane Creek Double XC Headset 1.5 to 1 1/8 for the bottom RACE only:



i'm guessing the CC Zero Stack will NOT work in the headset reducer...is there a headset reducer that would make the 1.5-1.125 reducer use an integrated headset? :confused:
 

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Are you talking about my post on Reset headset? I'm still waiting for mine to come in. My combination with Double XC of the bottom and Double XC Flush top is working to get the clearance on the crown and making the bar low.



If running a SMALL frame if you want fork clearance you NEED to use a NO FLUSH headset, we've done a number of the frames and never had an issue running a Cane Creek as far as the frame goes. Grease the head tube before installing the headset and it will slide in fine. If you want to keep your bars low you can go for a headset with a flush top bearing and an external for clearance of the fork and downtube. Here's a photo of mine done that way. Look at these heasets https://www.competitivecyclist.com/...RD&PRODUCT.ID=1997&CATEGORY.ID=553&MODE=&TFC= and this one works too https://www.competitivecyclist.com/...RD&PRODUCT.ID=2753&CATEGORY.ID=548&MODE=&TFC=

Someone makes a heaset that comes as a flush top and a bottom external there is a thread here somewhere that has a link to it. If going with a flush heaset the crown (or adjusting knobs) will contact the downtube, on our demo small 6.6 we installed a CC lower headset cup that was external to allow for clearance on the FOX 36Talas, the mediums clear just fine with a flush headset.
 

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Naw, don't do the reducer if you a rough rider.

The long travel single crown forks likely to make the headset creak, so you wouldn't want any extra pressed fit parts. I also wonder about it too, but the experienced member here didn't recommend.

misctwo said:
so here's my plan, if it's doable?

use the Cane Creek ZS2 Zero Stack Headset for the top race:



install the Wheels Manufacturing Headset Reducer:



and finally install the Cane Creek Double XC Headset 1.5 to 1 1/8 for the bottom RACE only:



i'm guessing the CC Zero Stack will NOT work in the headset reducer...is there a headset reducer that would make the 1.5-1.125 reducer use an integrated headset? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OneBikeGuy said:
Naw, don't do the reducer if you a rough rider.

The long travel single crown forks likely to make the headset creak, so you wouldn't want any extra pressed fit parts. I also wonder about it too, but the experienced member here didn't recommend.
i didn't realize that the reset headset was flush top and external bottom! is that correct? thanks for the heads up about the reducer....
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
OneBikeGuy said:
Are you talking about my post on Reset headset? I'm still waiting for mine to come in. My combination with Double XC of the bottom and Double XC Flush top is working to get the clearance on the crown and making the bar low.

i'd like to see how you like that once you get it! i'm expecting an invoice from them tonight..
 

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misctwo said:
so the WAN.5 is $217 US which includes 60 euros for shipping to California!!! insane.
I'm glad there's a distributor in Japan, so I don't have to pay for the shipment then!
I here they do special sizing (the custom stack height), so for that amount of money, we should buy as the optimized stack height of your choice!
 
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