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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, I want to let you all know this is the best forum on MTBR by far. You guys are all rock solid and full of great info. On to the question. . .

I'm building some disc wheels and am about to order spokes but I need to know if there is any reason I should avoid aluminum nipples, or brass nipples?

I am also planning on using Wheelsmith DB14 2.0 - 1.7 - 2.0's . Any issues there?

I have the rims and hubs and I am just trying to verify that I am building a soslid set of wheel for my conversion to disc. The wheels will be used for cross country exclusively, I'm 165lb.
 

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darkmatter said:
First off, I want to let you all know this is the best forum on MTBR by far. You guys are all rock solid and full of great info. On to the question. . .

I'm building some disc wheels and am about to order spokes but I need to know if there is any reason I should avoid aluminum nipples, or brass nipples?

I am also planning on using Wheelsmith DB14 2.0 - 1.7 - 2.0's . Any issues there?

I have the rims and hubs and I am just trying to verify that I am building a soslid set of wheel for my conversion to disc. The wheels will be used for cross country exclusively, I'm 165lb.
Its a personal preference. I hate aluminum nipples and dont like building with them.
If you've ever read Schraner, you'd know he does not like them either and wont build a rear wheel with them. Alot of people here love them since you can save 40 grams a wheel or some other insignificant number. I think they deform way too easily under stress and are easily mangled by people who dont know what they are doing and expect you to fix it.
If you want solid, then use brass. WS makes excellent spokes and i've never had any trouble with them.
What kind of rims and hubs did you go with?
 

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I Like Them

darkmatter said:
First off, I want to let you all know this is the best forum on MTBR by far. You guys are all rock solid and full of great info. On to the question. . .

I'm building some disc wheels and am about to order spokes but I need to know if there is any reason I should avoid aluminum nipples, or brass nipples?

I am also planning on using Wheelsmith DB14 2.0 - 1.7 - 2.0's . Any issues there?

I have the rims and hubs and I am just trying to verify that I am building a soslid set of wheel for my conversion to disc. The wheels will be used for cross country exclusively, I'm 165lb.
Sory I couldn't resist.
 

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I usually use aluminum nipples. I like the color choices and the slight weight drop is a bonus.

I have had no more issues with aluminum nips than with brass and use them on any of my bikes except the tandem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
rims and hubs

I'm actually going on the cheap to start. WTB Speeddisc rims and freaky formula OEM hubs (XT quality) This is going to be an experiment for me to cheaply feel my way into disc brakes. I have been a total v-brake nazi but I got some disk brakes on the cheapy cheap and thought it would be an interesting on my hardtail.

I am also looking to buy some synergy rims from velocity but they seem super hard to get ahold of. I want to build them up with some AM classic hubs for my v-brake racer X. QBP doesn't carry them, which I find odd. Anyone know why that is?
 

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darkmatter said:
I'm actually going on the cheap to start. WTB Speeddisc rims and freaky formula OEM hubs (XT quality) This is going to be an experiment for me to cheaply feel my way into disc brakes. I have been a total v-brake nazi but I got some disk brakes on the cheapy cheap and thought it would be an interesting on my hardtail.

I am also looking to buy some synergy rims from velocity but they seem super hard to get ahold of. I want to build them up with some AM classic hubs for my v-brake racer X. QBP doesn't carry them, which I find odd. Anyone know why that is?
Alloy nipples are fine. If the wheel is built properly no problem.

I'll probably get blasted for this but you couldn't give me American Classic hubs. They suck. Like Hans and Frans would say, "Believe me now or hear me later.", I see lots of dead ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I know about the Am classic hubs. The bearings suck. They come pretty cheap on ebay as a result though. I got some that are slightly older but never laced up. I have actually heard good things about the free hub mechanism but that the cheap sealed bearings suck. I've heard of some broken flanges and that one worries me but I don't weigh much so I am not as worried.
 

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Everything breaks?

darkmatter said:
I know about the Am classic hubs. The bearings suck. They come pretty cheap on ebay as a result though. I got some that are slightly older but never laced up. I have actually heard good things about the free hub mechanism but that the cheap sealed bearings suck. I've heard of some broken flanges and that one worries me but I don't weigh much so I am not as worried.
Being light will help. Of course not every AC hub breaks. I see them still running strong after years of use. Working at a large shop and being a wheel builder I probably see more hubs overall than most. But like I said, "Everything breaks!".
 

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As i understand, nipples come in different lengths: 12/14/16mm and gauges to match the spoke diameters.
However, if you use a longer nipple, (16mm as oppose to 12mm) does this affect the spoke length?
Or does the 16mm nipple just overlap the spoke more than a 12mm nipple?

This is specifically to do with the Mavic XM819 disc rims, i used the spoke calculator on DT's website, however their calculated spoke length doesnt seem to be affected by the length of the nipples.

Thanks for any help,
Wil
 

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Little Willy said:
As i understand, nipples come in different lengths: 12/14/16mm and gauges to match the spoke diameters.
However, if you use a longer nipple, (16mm as oppose to 12mm) does this affect the spoke length?
Or does the 16mm nipple just overlap the spoke more than a 12mm nipple?

This is specifically to do with the Mavic XM819 disc rims, i used the spoke calculator on DT's website, however their calculated spoke length doesnt seem to be affected by the length of the nipples.

Thanks for any help,
Wil
No, it does not effect the correct spoke length. If the spokes are too long you can have problems with the 16mm nips. The reason for the 16mm nips on the 819s is so the wrench flats can clear the eyelets. I use mainly 12mm nipples but they are a little harder to build with.

Go back and calculate your spoke lengths again using a ERD of 532. DT has screwed up ERDs for Mavic. 532 is right from the Mavic tech site.

Good luck with your build.
 

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darkmatter said:
I'm building some disc wheels and am about to order spokes but I need to know if there is any reason I should avoid aluminum nipples, or brass nipples?
I'm in the 190lb area and build all my wheels with alum nipples - mtb, road and lately track. I never have a problem with them. Just make sure that the spoke length is long enough to reach up into the head of the nipple, past the top of the neck.
 

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Thanks for the help Mtnpedaler,

the DT calculator is useful, but my naiive approach to wheelbuilding is still confusing me.

When the site says this for the front hub:

left. 252 mm right. 255 mm

obviously i can get 252mm spokes, but 255 is an odd number, so do i go 254 or 256mm?

cheers mate,
wil
 

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Also, use a good spoke wrench. I've found the DT Swiss the best I've tried so far. It doesn't leave a mark on the nipples no matter how often and tight you turn them. A good second is the Spokey Pro with double wide contact area. The plastic does flex a little however at high spoke tensions, which takes away a lot of "feel" in the end.
 
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