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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm planning on doing some off road touring which I've never done before. I have a mid-80's Stumpjumper sport (with the bi-plane fork and the scalloped chainstay lugs). It has a few stock things but also some hack job add ons. I plan to strip it down, framesave, and build it into a tough expedition bike.

What components would you recommend I purchase for bombproof reliablility? I don't want to be stuck out in the middle of nowhere.

I was thinking of keeping:

Suntour Power Thumb shifters
Saturae wheels
Are the stock hubs tough enough?

Any recommendations for derailleurs? They can be from any era but I'd like to buy used/cheap something that is really tough to break.

What about brakes? I'll be pulling a BOB Ibex, sometimes maxed out, are canti's a bad idea? If so what are my other options on this frame?

Thanks!
 

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Hybrid Leftys aren't real
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Hubs from that era are freewheel. This created an unsupported axle section, that went all the way from the end of the hub threads, to the axles lock nut. Broken and bent axles were common back then, and evaporated once freehub style systems came about. Not that you can't go that way, but for loaded touring, and worry free riding? I'd go with a modern design rear hub if it were me.

Sounds like a fun project, where're you heading?
 

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m o t o !
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Hi,
I'd recommend the whole line of suntour components. The microdrive is well suited for high loads of package, the canties are toxic and the derailleurs insensible.
Its a good idea to lace up new wheels for travelling anyway.
Besides: the squaretaper bbs last out a lot iof trouble, the bearings are cheap and spares are available easily.
ciao, Alexander
 

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bullseye, philwood,cooks cranks,chris king,answer atak/hyperlight,brakes with ballbearing pivots that don't stick out,just go with mavic rims,or rhyno's,a vintage seatpost that won't slip( two bolt) like campy an undrilled plastic seat,i like the suntour thumb shifters,terry cables,
 

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m o t o !
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[/QUOTE]Anything named Deore DX. [/QUOTE]

Right, this is a very good option, too. This
stuff is even more stable than 730/732 XT.
I have the 6 speed deore (DX) shifters, brake levers and derailleurs. They are all more heavy and beefier than compareable XTII but with very own charme. For example, the label on the derailleur is corrugated thick paper that withstands any moist european winter conditions.
And: while the XTII stuff got boundless pricey, the deore DX material is still cheap.
 

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herbn said:
bullseye, philwood,cooks cranks,chris king,answer atak/hyperlight,brakes with ballbearing pivots that don't stick out,just go with mavic rims,or rhyno's,a vintage seatpost that won't slip( two bolt) like campy an undrilled plastic seat,i like the suntour thumb shifters,terry cables,
I've had Mavic 217s and 517s split on me from relatively easy riding. They crack right at the eyelet down the center of the rim. I heard Ned Overend had this happen mid-race once with a 517. The 618 went to a double eyelet design to better spread the stress so they should be more durable. Build your wheels 3x too.
 

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Anything named Deore DX. [/QUOTE]

Right, this is a very good option, too. This
stuff is even more stable than 730/732 XT.
I have the 6 speed deore (DX) shifters, brake levers and derailleurs. They are all more heavy and beefier than compareable XTII but with very own charme. For example, the label on the derailleur is corrugated thick paper that withstands any moist european winter conditions.
And: while the XTII stuff got boundless pricey, the deore DX material is still cheap.[/QUOTE]

I agree accept for the shifters. The stamped steel shifter mounts of the Deore DX shifters would bend if the cables became clogged with mud. Deore XTII shifters have a cast aluminum mount that is more durable. The only problem I have ever had with them is the mounting threads for the shifter barrel stripping out. A longer bolt can solve this or they can be drilled out to the next bigger inch size.

Definetly upgrade to a freehub style hub, but you will need to spread your rear dropouts. I have done loaded touring on a mountain bike (but on the road, such as they are in rural Italy). I really liked having a suspension fork as it made hitting that pothole I didn't see because I was admiring the view a non issue. You are going to be pulling a loaded trailer, so no need for a front rack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
MendonCycleSmith said:
Hubs from that era are freewheel. This created an unsupported axle section, that went all the way from the end of the hub threads, to the axles lock nut. Broken and bent axles were common back then, and evaporated once freehub style systems came about. Not that you can't go that way, but for loaded touring, and worry free riding? I'd go with a modern design rear hub if it were me.

Sounds like a fun project, where're you heading?
Good catch, thanks, I didn't even think of the freewheel / freehub thing, I guess I forgot just how old this mountain bike is. I don't have any one trip in mind yet but I want to do it a lot and be able to stay out for extended periods of time and not worry too much about my equipment.

rasumichin said:
Hi,
I'd recommend the whole line of suntour components. The microdrive is well suited for high loads of package, the canties are toxic and the derailleurs insensible.
Its a good idea to lace up new wheels for travelling anyway.
Besides: the squaretaper bbs last out a lot iof trouble, the bearings are cheap and spares are available easily.
ciao, Alexander
Thanks, by 'toxic' and 'insensible' I'm assuming you mean good? Microdrive might be nice but I'd like to have something more common in case I have a chainring break. I agree on the square taper, never had a problem with them on any of my bikes. Thanks for your info on your experience with DX! I will probably give that a try.

herbn said:
bullseye, philwood,cooks cranks,chris king,answer atak/hyperlight,brakes with ballbearing pivots that don't stick out,just go with mavic rims,or rhyno's,a vintage seatpost that won't slip( two bolt) like campy an undrilled plastic seat,i like the suntour thumb shifters,terry cables,
Thanks, I'm all for King and Phil Wood (got them on my mtb), but as my number of bikes increase I need to start being budget minded so I'm looking for more cheap used stock items on this build. What kind of brakes have ball bearing pivots?

DeeEight said:
Anything named Deore DX.
Thanks, I haven't used that since my first real mountain bike. I'll definitely check it out.

outside! said:
Definetly upgrade to a freehub style hub, but you will need to spread your rear dropouts. I have done loaded touring on a mountain bike (but on the road, such as they are in rural Italy). I really liked having a suspension fork as it made hitting that pothole I didn't see because I was admiring the view a non issue. You are going to be pulling a loaded trailer, so no need for a front rack.
Thanks for the tips.

Anyone have tips on brakes? I'll have a lot of weight so I want something strong. I'm thinking V-brakes? Will they work on this frame as long as I use V-brake levers?
 

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Yeah i'm thinking of top end stuff, i think tnt had bearings on low profile non v brakes. I'm not sure exactly how vintage,you can go early xt or xtr v-brakes. I used a set of bullseye hubs for my entire vintage era they're still on my ss the most reliable freewheels of the day were probabely top end , there were durace road cluster i don't know how many teeth they go up to, or maybe a regina or sachs malliard(sp?).
 

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m o t o !
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5 - and 6- speed dura ace road freewheels have max. 31 teeth.
i also use fw hubs only. 2 sets of bullseyes, whereas one of them has a freewheel threading that is not perfectly in line with the direction of driving and thus wobbles a bit. Best recommendations on Kingsbery hubs.
 

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are white industrys freehub hubs considered "vintage" i rolled those for a lot of miles also,they don't take current cassettes are really light and i never broke them, they may have been the first modern cassette hubs,first cassettes that were easy to cleanout and rebuild.
 
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