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Hi, i am looking for some creative solutions to creaking issues involving the PF30 design. Please post what you've used to solve your issue (Green Loctite, TFE Paste, ext...)
Green Loctite (609) will solve your problem. It easily cleans up with rubbing alcohol should you ever need to service you PF30 BB. Specifically designed for press fit / slip fit assemblies. Intentionally designed with low shear strength so removal is a non issue. ~ $10 for a bottle at Lowes or Home Depot. Cheers.
 

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Here's a guy who appears to have been pretty thorough about figuring out his press-fit BB issues, and writes an interesting description:

Cervelo BBRight Problem and Solution - RogueMechanic

TL,DR: Loctite 609... with 7649 primer.

Disclaimer: Haven't tried this myself and can't vouch for his credibility, other than I like his way of approaching the problem. YMMV. I just bookmarked the post because my son's new Scott has a PF BB and I'm trying to ward off future trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here's a guy who appears to have been pretty thorough about figuring out his press-fit BB issues, and writes an interesting description:

Cervelo BBRight Problem and Solution - RogueMechanic

TL,DR: Loctite 609... with 7649 primer.

Disclaimer: Haven't tried this myself and can't vouch for his credibility, other than I like his way of approaching the problem. YMMV. I just bookmarked the post because my son's new Scott has a PF BB and I'm trying to ward off future trouble.
WORD! :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 

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Trail Tire TV on blogger
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Here's a guy who appears to have been pretty thorough about figuring out his press-fit BB issues, and writes an interesting description:

Cervelo BBRight Problem and Solution - RogueMechanic

TL,DR: Loctite 609... with 7649 primer.

Disclaimer: Haven't tried this myself and can't vouch for his credibility, other than I like his way of approaching the problem. YMMV. I just bookmarked the post because my son's new Scott has a PF BB and I'm trying to ward off future trouble.
what he does... "..... Moving forward, I advised my client to get an Enduro PF30 bottom bracket along with Enduro BB30 to Shimano Hollowtech 2 adapter kit."

or instead of mod-ing and dealing.. you can just get the Realworld cycling/Enduro bearing BB I listed above ... cheaper, better, no adaptors,.. it's MADE to do the job... :roll eyes:

no glues, no adhesives, no grinding, custom building .. no issues.. ever. well till you smash it :thumbsup:
 

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what he does... "..... Moving forward, I advised my client to get an Enduro PF30 bottom bracket along with Enduro BB30 to Shimano Hollowtech 2 adapter kit."

or instead of mod-ing and dealing.. you can just get the Realworld cycling/Enduro bearing BB I listed above ... cheaper, better, no adaptors,.. it's MADE to do the job... :roll eyes:

no glues, no adhesives, no grinding, custom building .. no issues.. ever. well till you smash it :thumbsup:
It's amazing how folks can portray situations in such a way as to make them seem difficult, burdensome or sub par that when distilled down to actual facts are virtually identical in terms of complexity (or lack there of) when compared to what they are proposing. Here are the facts:

PF30 BBs are easily removed. Couple of strikes with a mallet and they pop right out
Before reinstalling you should clean out the BB shell - takes roughly a minute with denatured alcohol or mineral spirits
PF30 BB as easily installed - they press in in a matter of seconds. Apply grease to the shell if you have no creaking issues or Loctite 609 (and maybe a primer depending in the surfaces you are dealing with) if you have creak issues. Takes all of 30 seconds to apply grease or Loctite

Threaded BBs are easily removed. Get out you BB wrench or BB socket and unscrew
Before reinstalling a new BB you should clean the threads - takes roughly a minute with denatured alcohol or mineral spirits
Threaded BBs are easily installed - they screw in in a matter of seconds. Apply grease to the threads before threading back in.

Virtually no difference.

Ah but wait - what does PF30 get me:

Lighter / stiffer crank if I choose to run a 30mm spindle
Larger BB bearings
Narrow Q factor if I so choose (no outboard bearing)
Significant frame design advantages (perhaps the most important benefit)

Case closed - no fuss / no adaptors needed! :)
 

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Trail Tire TV on blogger
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First off,.. did you read the linked article? it's obvious that it's FAR from easy if there are issues with your Press fit.
have you read ALL the posts here and all over the web and the world? Press fit is having issues.. mostly squeaking.. it's far from an isolated issue.

but the "threaded" BB30/PF30 BB's that screw together in the middle through what used to be just a dust tube... this makes the left and right bearing cup basically one. the biggest issue with press fit is one or both of the bearing cups moving. If you need glues to hold a high load bearing in place then it's very likely there is movement and mis-alignment between the left and right side. With threaded versions there is no movement, perfect alignment, longer wear, no squeak. Press fit is much easier to get the bearings twisted, misaligned, or even damage the area of the frame which has no real repairability... threaded at least you can face and chase the threads.

Also I don't find having to "strike my bike with a mallet" as a good thing :rolleyes:
plus if you read the article you'll see he went through a number of adaptors and idea then finally some modifications of the adaptors... no.. that's not as easy as just threading a BB together.

honestly,.. design wise,.. I think the aftermarket "center tube threaded" BB30/PF30 Bottom brackets are the best of both worlds.. allows for all the frame design advantages and eliminates 95% of all the issues..
 

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I'm with thomllama on this one, I'm always uneasy about relying on glue to hold parts in place on a bicycle. I admit I don't have much experience with the new ones but I remember gluing press fit bearings into old Gary Fishers (mid 90's?) and it was always just a temporary cure. I recall getting so frustrated with one that we cut threads in the shell with a bb thread chasing tool.... glad it wasn't mine! (the tool or the bike)
 

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First off,.. did you read the linked article? it's obvious that it's FAR from easy if there are issues with your Press fit.
have you read ALL the posts here and all over the web and the world? Press fit is having issues.. mostly squeaking.. it's far from an isolated issue.

but the "threaded" BB30/PF30 BB's that screw together in the middle through what used to be just a dust tube... this makes the left and right bearing cup basically one. the biggest issue with press fit is one or both of the bearing cups moving. If you need glues to hold a high load bearing in place then it's very likely there is movement and mis-alignment between the left and right side. With threaded versions there is no movement, perfect alignment, longer wear, no squeak. Press fit is much easier to get the bearings twisted, misaligned, or even damage the area of the frame which has no real repairability... threaded at least you can face and chase the threads.

Also I don't find having to "strike my bike with a mallet" as a good thing :rolleyes:
plus if you read the article you'll see he went through a number of adaptors and idea then finally some modifications of the adaptors... no.. that's not as easy as just threading a BB together.

honestly,.. design wise,.. I think the aftermarket "center tube threaded" BB30/PF30 Bottom brackets are the best of both worlds.. allows for all the frame design advantages and eliminates 95% of all the issues..
Oh brother. Have you ever removed (or watched someone remove) headset cups? Same tool /method for removal which requires a mallet. In case it is not clear you don't strike the frame or part with the mallet but rather the head of the tool: Park Tool Co. » RT-1 : Head Cup Remover : Headset . Ever needed to tap out a cartridge bearing or set a lower headset race on a fork .... all the same principal .... requires a striking force applied through the proper tool.

Seriously ... it is as simple as I described above and any competent bike mechanic or home wrench can install a PF30 BB with no squeaks or creaks. You do need to use a headset press and the right cup adaptors to ensure proper alignment but you can make a DIY press for < $10 bucks and the adaptors are about the same off ebay (you also need a BB wrench or socket for a threaded BB so call it even) .

How pervasive are press fit assemblies / bearings in the automotive industry ??????? I guess they don't know what they are doing either :)
 

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I'm with thomllama on this one, I'm always uneasy about relying on glue to hold parts in place on a bicycle. I admit I don't have much experience with the new ones but I remember gluing press fit bearings into old Gary Fishers (mid 90's?) and it was always just a temporary cure. I recall getting so frustrated with one that we cut threads in the shell with a bb thread chasing tool.... glad it wasn't mine! (the tool or the bike)
You are not using glue or an adhesive per se .... it is a retaining compound. The Loctite 609 is more of a void filler to compensate for tolerance inconsistencies between the BB shell and the BB. By filling the voids you form a solid connection between the BB shell and BB and eliminate assembly creep / creak.
 

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Trail Tire TV on blogger
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Yo....The Loctite 609 is more of a void filler to compensate for tolerance inconsistencies between the BB shell and the BB. By filling the voids you form a solid connection between the BB shell and BB and eliminate assembly creep / creak.
hmmmm LOL.. you defend press fit, and yet you out right state the problem.
you just stated the WHOLE issue of the design. well not so much design but the manufacturing issues. It's not so much that you need a "void filler".. which you shouldn't,.. but if there are voids.. there are mis alignment possibilities. along with other issues.:skep:

again.. I don't think the basis of press fit design is a total bust.. it does allow for better tube-BB shell attachment and strength, and gives options for better/stronger/stiffer rear triangle attachments, (this is what I DO like about it most as the rear triange is the weakest and most flex part of a modern MTB) but the standard bearing set up has common flaws.. use of the after market BB bearings which again, attach in the middle making the structure of the BB as a whole, one unit eliminates all the issues.

you can argue all you want.. there are MULTIPLE documented issues with the current press fit setups.

and as to cars.. I used to build dragsters and performance cars.. if we needed any kind of "void filler" on a pressed in bearings we threw it in the garbage and ordered a new one.

and then as to the headset..
1 they don't need to be replaced as often as BB's get WAY more dirt wear..
2 when you do replace worn bearings.. you don't have to remove the cups.. the bearings aren't pressed in.. they come out by gravity.
 

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You are not using glue or an adhesive per se .... it is a retaining compound. The Loctite 609 is more of a void filler to compensate for tolerance inconsistencies between the BB shell and the BB. By filling the voids you form a solid connection between the BB shell and BB and eliminate assembly creep / creak.
However it goes about the job the end result is that it makes things stick together very tightly, which to my simple mind = glue. I realize it is a very specialized type of glue, I mean retaining compound, but so are many others.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I tried the Loctite 609 and 7649 primer. The crank was silent for about 25mins before starting to make creaking sounds again. I'm going to try TFE paste.


BTW, please leave the long winded comments out of here. I'm simply trying to start a discussion on what works. I don't care what you're opinions are on PF30.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Careful using that Loctite 609 on composite (plastic) BB's. I went to remove a BB out of a frame and it was so stuborn coming out, that it cracked and broke off parts of the BB shell. So now im left having to saw and chizzle the BB shell out of the housing.
 
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