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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I've try to find some technical data about the position relative to the axle for mounting a disk brake system. I have a almost new Rock Shox Judy from 99 that does not have "ears" for attaching a caliper.

So I want to weld or those "ears" to the fork or to make a brace but I don't know the exact parameters for the holes and relative distances from the axle and between the holes.

Does any one have such data?

Thank you in advance.
 

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It's all ball bearings
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hayes

hayes website has some tech drawing that you can print out that show caliper mounting dimensions

I thought about doing the same thing a while back on an old fork, and decided just to replace the fork instead. Dont know if anyone else has experience with welding on lowers- Whats the material? are they mag?
 

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gopriest31 said:
hayes website has some tech drawing that you can print out that show caliper mounting dimensions

I thought about doing the same thing a while back on an old fork, and decided just to replace the fork instead. Dont know if anyone else has experience with welding on lowers- Whats the material? are they mag?
Different manufacture/fork models will have different material in the lowers. Aluminum, magnesium etc.....
 

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ravegun said:
Hi,

I've try to find some technical data about the position relative to the axle for mounting a disk brake system. I have a almost new Rock Shox Judy from 99 that does not have "ears" for attaching a caliper.

So I want to weld or those "ears" to the fork or to make a brace but I don't know the exact parameters for the holes and relative distances from the axle and between the holes.

Does any one have such data?

Thank you in advance.
The amount of time/effort it would take to weld on ears to a 99 judy it is really not worth the effort. Unless this is a project you really want to do, I would advise droping $200 on a manitou black elite (year or two old model, still light years ahead of the judy). you will have your ears, a better fork, and probably be about the same point financially if you calculate out the savings in time invested.
 

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"El Whatever"
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What 006_007 said.....

Unless you're a certified Magnesium weldor, I wouldn't attempt it. Besides the fork was not designed for it.

There's a solution though.... try contacting therapycomponents.com, they might have a fork disc brake adapter. First discs worked like that. The price might be not worthy though.

Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ravegun said:
Hi, I've try to find ... Thank you in advance.
Thank you for the answers. I've donwloaded the schematics from Hayes site.

Because I live in Romania droping $200 is over my poket. I already put to much money in the bike and because of the nature of my job I'm not having enough time to use it at full potential.

It will be cheaper for me to weld and fix mechnicaly a braket on the fork because I have a friend working at some welding research and he said that it's possible and it will not cost much.

Right now I'm between two diks brakes: Magura Julie 2005 (used) for 150$ or Hope XC4 (new) for 130$. Both will be available next week and I don't know what to choose. I'll have to see them first.

Thanks again for your help.
 

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"El Whatever"
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A visit to your hospital's emergency room will be more expensive than 200 USD.

I live in Mexico and I would strongly recommend you to get a fork for the purpouse or fix the brke my mechanical means other than welding.

As Dee said, those are cast magnesium and not weldable (OK, not impossible but you'd have to find Mg eyelets, Mg welding rods and a incredibly skilled weldor to do the job).

I have a set of '02 julies. Those work and work fine for not so aggressive riding and better yet for lighter people. Bleeding is easy and they use mineral oil. Having Germany so close might give you some good deals if you search a bit. Maybe if you buy from spain or italy??
 

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I hate to say it but no one needs discs that bad. You are just better off sticking to V's on this one. If you can dump 150 into new brakes, buy a closeout fork from a year or two ago instead. It will be a huge improvement over a 99 Judy. Sell the Judy and buy new brakes later.
Another option I would recommend which is far more feasable than what you are attempting is to look around for a set of 2000 or later Judy lowers. They had disc brake mounts and should be interchangeable with the older model.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
</HS33>

Hecubus said:
I hate to say ... interchangeable with the older model.
You are absolutely right and taking in account that this summer I'll go on a long Danube trip, all the way from Donaueschingen to Vienna, maybe it's not that a big deal to change now the brakes, maybe after that. The reason I go with the MTB is that the other 3 friends I go with, own only MTBS so it won't be fair from me to take my "F1" bicycle :-D.

But, right now I have to change the back wheel, on the MTB, and get a new one. I said why not one for disk because the frame has the brackets.

Changing the fork... Hmmm... it's not such a big market here and the prices are way high quite all time. There are several reasons why I can't buy from Germany (ok it's eBay but not anyone is shipping to Romania, and the shipping fee and the risk is not worth). One of them is that RO is not in EU :) sending money costs over 25$.

Yes, I will put only on the rear the disk and start to save for a XC fork with disk brackets. :), because I am really unhappy with the way my HS33 work. I can't lock the wheel with one finger.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Magura Julie 05

:)))

Yeah...

Somehow I had luck.
Yes, I didn't manage to weld anything to the fork, didn't try either, but, our LBS manage to import some RockShox forks and I bought a new Judy TT, a new wheel for disk and a set of almost new Julie 05 for only 200+ EURO.

Now I'm thinking about changing the rotor in front to a 200+ mm variant.

- Is it recomented for Julie to do this?
- What adapter is needed?
- What rotor?
- The clearance between pad and rotor is less then 1mm. Is this ok?

- One more thing. The screws that fix the rear calipper are too short. I needed 1.2mm spacer and when I started to tighten it, one screw didn't tighten and started to chew on the mounting adapter thread. I measured them and all are 18mm long (the thread part). What is the longest tread I can use without touching the rotor? I thing 20mm it's too short and I'll have the same problem. Does the screws habe to be from a special metal?

Thanks again for the input.

PS. I am 190 lbs and do street riding and for just fitness around 30km/day @25km/h+ when the weather plays with.
 

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"El Whatever"
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ravegun said:
:)))

Yeah...

Somehow I had luck.
Yes, I didn't manage to weld anything to the fork, didn't try either, but, our LBS manage to import some RockShox forks and I bought a new Judy TT, a new wheel for disk and a set of almost new Julie 05 for only 200+ EURO.

Now I'm thinking about changing the rotor in front to a 200+ mm variant.

- Is it recomented for Julie to do this?
- What adapter is needed?
- What rotor?
- The clearance between pad and rotor is less then 1mm. Is this ok?

- One more thing. The screws that fix the rear calipper are too short. I needed 1.2mm spacer and when I started to tighten it, one screw didn't tighten and started to chew on the mounting adapter thread. I measured them and all are 18mm long (the thread part). What is the longest tread I can use without touching the rotor? I thing 20mm it's too short and I'll have the same problem. Does the screws habe to be from a special metal?

Thanks again for the input.

PS. I am 190 lbs and do street riding and for just fitness around 30km/day @25km/h+ when the weather plays with.
Send an e-mail to Jimi at Magura [[email protected]]. He'll be happy to help. Awesome guy.

On the other hand, the cost of the upgrade to bigger rotor is not cheap and it will make the warranty of your fork void. I really don't think you would need more stopping power once the pads on the julies are fully bedded in.

I only can tell you that the clearance of less than 1mm is OK. You don't want them any farther or closer.

Good Luck and happy riding.
 
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