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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone

I recently picked a new giant xtc alliance (which i am loving). Now as with everything we all look at what we need to upgrade to make it better/faster/stronger. To be honest, i think that bike is fine, couldn't be happier. I have weighed my bike on a scale and have found it to weigh in at 26.6 pounds.

My question is what does everyone else's xc bike weigh? I think most will be in the 21-28 area?

Don't those WW guys just trade off reliability for a lighter bike?

Let me know if you think so
Spud
 

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I love Pisgah
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19" XTC disc carbon/alum hybrid HT with 2.25 FFred tires and a Fox F80X fork is 20lb 2oz.

19" disc Spider FS with a new 32mm Sid fork, Karma 2.0s, etc is 22.5lbs.

I've broken one part(all carbon Flite Evo saddle back in 04) that could be attributed being too much of a WW. Cut sidewalls on light weight tires(I've cut a few Racing Ralphs, Karmas, etc) are part of the game when racing XC. Oh well. Also, I've found that I descend better then most I race against and can't be accused of babying my bikes come race day, fwiw.

Done right, one doesn't have to give up much(like small volumn WW tires, or a 28mm Sid, or Vs, road cogs, etc). Just takes patience. Some knowledge on whats important and how to use it. And of course $$. I like having at least a small advantage, since as always..that, and all those other small edges add up.

If anything, I'd try to run light wheels with light and fast rolling tires. Thats where its the most important.

Having said all that..

The strongest guy still wins..usually. Assuming he has decent skills and at least a capable bike.
 

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My XC bike is 22 pounds, with 2.0 Karma's. It has been ridden hard and I mean hard for the past two years.

My wife's bike, which is pimped beyond imaging, is a hair under 21 pounds. She runs Maxxis tubeless CrossMark tires for durability which adds a pound. With normal tires it would be under 20. Other than the wheels there is no compromise in durability.

We both rode on the North Shore this weekend on some trails which are definately not designed for XC bike with no problems.
 

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wants a taco
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On that bike id say the biggest weak point is the fork and wheelset. You could make BIG improvements buy upgrading those alone.

Im running a pretty lightweight wheelset that is 1500'ish grams and have beat the piss out of it in pisgah down some rocky narly decents with a fair shair of jumps and small drops thrown in for good measure. Ive done minor truing on them i think twice over a year. It all comes down to buying quality stuff, like the old saying goes, light strong cheap...pick two.

Now on to me bicycle, im running a giant trance with a nice dt 240s/mavic 717 wheelset, fox talas (not weight weenie by any means) full xt and mountain king protection front tire and supersonic rear tire and i think im 27.5 ish pounds. with lighter front tire and old xt detrailers i was around 27.2 i belive.

She sure served me well yesterday and even outran some carbon still running v brake hardtails so even though it helps to have a light bike it isnt everything. Like i said if i was you, id throw a fox f100 or f80 depending on where you ride and buy a nice light race wheelset once youve got the coin. something like those superlight stans wheels and use your old wheels for training rides.
 

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Jam Econo
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I think your first mistake was putting your bike on a scale; now you'll be sucked into the WW abyss!
When I need to replace something is when I look to the weight vs. durability vs. price matrix .
For instance, I love Kenda Karma's; they are sticky and light. However I haven't had the best of luck with them in the durability department, so I run Maxxis Ignitors and or Crossmarks which although are slightly heavier, have been a more durable alternative.
So when you need to replace things then consider weight.
 

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No longer 26
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Race results on my 25# 29er HT, and former 26" FS and 26.5# 29er FS tell me that a couple of bike pounds probably do not make a difference for me. I think most pros bikes are in that 22-25# range. A bike within another few pounds of that is plenty raceable imo.

G
 

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bi-winning
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My NRS is ~30lbs. In this weekend's O-Cup race, I finished 8/35 in Sport. The bike is good enough for me.
 

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mutaullyassuredsuffering
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Climb

On a sustained climb, 1 kg can mean 1-1.5% change in time. If you race in areas with big hills, do the math and see if it's worth it. Depending on how competitive you are it might matter...it might not. Also don't forget about the added effect of rotation. Last year it mattered for me, as I was consistently within seconds of my competition and we were climbing for at least 1 to 1.5 hours per race. This year...not so much. I'm not nearly as concerned with WW matters as I once was, and am switching to heavier parts that I just like the feel or function of more.

My bikes are 22lb FS, and 20.75lb HT, and they are bombproof. The Stans wheels, and XTR bits are as reliable as anything else out there. Any mechanicals I have had, have either been tires or der hangars, and were unavoidable. There is no reason that a good lite bike will sacrifice durability.
 

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used2Bhard said:
There is no reason that a good lite bike will sacrifice durability.
agreed, a 20-22 lb bike is durable enough for normal XC racing and riding if you are a decent rider and not 200 lbs.

my bike is about 22-23 FS, depending on the tires. it handles well,climbs very well and is very durable for riding style and weight (150 lbs).

light wheels and tires. that is the most important areas to be light... oh and your body.
 

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my hardtail is about 20.5 and fs bike is just under 23. they are speced the same. i am using all stock parts, and have done no bolt changing or modifying anything. as long as the bike fits into the range of light it is good enough. i have been fortunate have pretty cool bikes and parts but i don't take any risks to shave weight.
you will be best off to take the weight off you than the bike.
 

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Everytime I go into the WW forum, Capital One sends me a free airline ticket.

General rule: To lose 1 pound, it will cost $1000. Exception: Tires and Stans. I saved CRAZY weight switching to Karma's with Stans.

I ride an Epic at 25.8 pounds, with pedals and small saddle bag and two water carriers. I could switch to XTR cranks and Cassettee, as well as a few other minor changes, but I'd prefer to lose the weight on my body. MUCH cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok guppie i would like some help here. From what i have researched, "stans' is a type of sealant to run tubeless? yes? OK so use that to run tubeless, anything else? and can someone PLEASE direct me to some material on UST or UTS for tubeless? i have having very bad luck trying to find anything for it.
Thanks
 

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Jam Econo
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uncomplientspud said:
ok guppie i would like some help here. From what i have researched, "stans' is a type of sealant to run tubeless? yes? OK so use that to run tubeless, anything else? and can someone PLEASE direct me to some material on UST or UTS for tubeless? i have having very bad luck trying to find anything for it.
Thanks
The Stan's No Tubes system lets you convert conventional clinchers, which are much lighter than UST tires, to tubeless with a rim strip (lightest version is a tape) and sealant.
More information can be found here.
 

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One " allrounder"

Since I have only one bike I must compromise weight a bit to use it for AM and light DH so I use UST tires, Rock Shox Recon Soloair ( 120mm) and Ritchey Pro carbon handlebar. Suppose I can drop +- 800 grams if I switched to lighter fork and tires. It still is just over 26 pounds. Here's a pic with my dearly departed Contis on it before a piece of glass took out the front tire. Raleigh RDS 9.0 Elite.
 

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My Superfly is 23.5 lbs (mostly stock) and my singlespeed, rigid is 21.8 lbs. What freaks me out is how much lighter and responsive the singlespeed feels, especially in climbs and acceleration.
 
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