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WTF
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Help me drop some weight without spending too much.:rolleyes:

The bold things are things I will not change.

Frame: Scale 10 Medium

Fork: Sid Race, Poplock, 80mm 3.2 lbs

Wheels: Dirty Flea Hubs, Stans Olympics, stans tubless 1520 grams

Tires: Nobby Nics 485 grams each


Crankset: XX 720g

Pedals: Egg Beater SL

Skewers: Crank Brothers Split clamp type 120grams

Seatpost: Ritchey WCS carbon

Shifters: Dual control XT's

Brakes: Dual control XT's

Rear D: XT

Front D: XTR E-type (requires for frame)

Stem: Thomson 90mm

Bar: FSA K-Force riser

Rotors: 180mm Hayes

Saddle: Selle something...IDK what it is. Thinking of a token....

Cages: I dont remember, but they are 55 grams each

Current Weight: 21.3 lb
Target: sub 20lb

I have a XO rear d laying around and some twist shifters, this will take off weight, but I will need to use my Hayes Stroker brakes off my old bike. Is it worth it to downgrade brakes to run lighter shifters and derailluer?

And because threads are useless without pikturs:
 

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For starters, cut your steerer tube.

Bolt on Skewers are cheap and really light.

I don't think Dual Control XT is the lightest setup either.

Syntace stem.

Try this for starters.
 

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Rivet said:
Uhhhh, save the money you were going to spend on your bike and buy some new carpet and furniture because........damn.
Just like Will Smith in Men in Black

Well, yeah, you know, 'cause 'cause he never appreciated you anyway. In fact, you know what - you kicked *him* out. And now that he's gone you're gonna go into town, you go to Bloomingdale's and find some nice dresses, get yourself some shoes, you know, find somewhere, maybe you can get a facial. And, uh, oh - hire a decorator to come in here quick, 'cause... *damn*

And a lava lamp!?! Nice touch.

As for the bike - it really makes the room.

Wheels could be lighter. 1720 is heavy for Olympics. Change the hubs to DT 240's or something.
 

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The cheap things would be the skewers, go bolt on or lighter qr

Then the rotors- you could loose a good bit of weight just going 160 plus it would get rid of the adapter on the front. Maybe look at some alligator rotors. Not sure of your weight and riding style but 140 rear might work as well.

the more expensive parts would be the shifters and a lighter saddle.

As far as the brakes go, use your xo and gripshift your hayes will work fine or you could look at some juicy ultimates. They have been going for decent prices on ebay now that the xx is out.
 

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What the hell spokes have you got in those wheels for them to be 1720, special DT swiss non-butted 'lead-alutions'..:eek:
With those rims and hubs you should be seeing a 1480g wheelset....and you can run only the yellow tape for tubeless in those babies too.

If its for XC (which is what WW builds are) then you don't need 180mm rotors. 160/140 F/R is perfect (assuming your brakes are OK). If they're not then elixir CR mag gets big thumbsup from me....they're so powerful you can run some seriously WW rotors and not be let down.
 

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WTF
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What the hell spokes have you got in those wheels for them to be 1720, special DT swiss non-butted 'lead-alutions'..:eek:
With those rims and hubs you should be seeing a 1480g wheelset....and you can run only the yellow tape for tubeless in those babies too.
Typo, they are 1520, yellow tape double butted spokes (2.0/1.8)

Yeah, I could have used 240's or something lighter, but the improvement is not much and I got the hubset for 150, the total wheel build was 300 :thumbsup: I couldn't pass that up

If its for XC (which is what WW builds are) then you don't need 180mm rotors. 160/140 F/R is perfect (assuming your brakes are OK). If they're not then elixir CR mag gets big thumbsup from me....they're so powerful you can run some seriously WW rotors and not be let down
I was considering this if my hayes strokers dont live up to my expectations with 160/140 and they are much lighter....
 

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here's some suggestions
spartan034 said:
Frame: Scale 10 Medium

Fork: Sid Race, Poplock, 80mm 3.2 lbs

Wheels: Dirty Flea Hubs, Stans Olympics, stans tubless 1520 gramsheavy....about every decent wheelset out there is lighter.

Tires: Nobby Nics 485 grams each
when changing tires try the Conti RaceKing 2,2" Supersonic. That much better you won't even think about those Schwalbe tires anymore.

Crankset: XX 720gwrong choice -pricey and too heavy

Pedals: Egg Beater SL get some Ti-springs off Ebay

Skewers: Crank Brothers Split clamp type 120gramswhoa-get rid of them! Steel bolt-on slewers weigh 60g and cost around 15$

Seatpost: Ritchey WCS carbonToo hevay!! That monster is about 240g and bonehard.get a lighter seatpost maybe in 31,6 size with a redction shim.not only lighter but definitely better comfort as well.

Shifters: Dual control XT'soutch!

Brakes: Dual control XT'sdouble ouch!

Rear D: XTif you have a 11-32 cassette you could also run a DA derailleur.the older models can be found for cheap on Ebay and weigh just 180g (RD 7800 for example)

Front D: XTR E-type (requires for frame)Not required! You can make any 34,9 clamp-style derailleur fit. Lightest would be a Dura Ace with Speen Top-Pull adapter: ca. 80g

Stem: Thomson 90mmtoo heavy.at such short lenghts EVERY stem is stiff

Bar: FSA K-Force riseryou have your stem facing downwards and run a rizer bar??? I'd flip the stem and put a lightweight straight bar instead.

Rotors: 180mm HayesDo you really need 180 on that bike? usually 160 should do fine on a HT.Something like Alligator Windcutters can save chunks of weight at little cost

Saddle: Selle something...IDK what it is. Thinking of a token....the token will save a good amount while beeing comfortable on top

Cages: I dont remember, but they are 55 grams each

Cassette?
Cables?
Inner tubes?
grips?
chain?
 

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nino said:
here's some suggestions

Seatpost: Ritchey WCS carbonToo hevay!! That monster is about 240g and bonehard.get a lighter seatpost maybe in 31,6 size with a redction shim.not only lighter but definitely better comfort as well.
Nino - what do you think of the strength of using an adapter in a carbon frame for a 31.6 seatpost? I have the Ritchey and it is a monster, even compared to a Al Thomson Masterpiece.
 

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ericsan256 said:
Nino - what do you think if the strength of using an adapter in a carbon frame for a 31.6 seatpost? I have the Ritchey and it is a monster, even compared to a Al Thomson Masterpiece.
I am using adapters on mine since 2005...

31,6 Carbon seatpost: 130g + 20g for a shim = 150g
 

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WTF
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
92gli said:
The blanket over the ottoman - is that to protect the ottoman from bike dirt or to protect the bike from ottoman dirt ? Sorry, couldn't resist. :thumbsup:
The ottoman is ripped. Not my apartment. Bike is spanking new.

Wheels: Dirty Flea Hubs, Stans Olympics, stans tubless 1520 gramsheavy....about every decent wheelset out there is lighter.
Really!??! I was fairly impressed, especially for a 300 dollar wheelset. I built them with 2.0/1.8 butted spokes and 32 count, so they would handle my abuse.

Seatpost: Ritchey WCS carbonToo hevay!! That monster is about 240g and bonehard.get a lighter seatpost maybe in 31,6 size with a redction shim.not only lighter but definitely better comfort as well.
Can you really feel a difference in stiffness/comfort in a seatpost? Who makes a good 34.9 post? I really dont like using adapters to make things work

Crankset: XX 720gwrong choice -pricey and too heavy
Not in my case, got a sick deal from a sponsor I couldnt pass up.

Front D: XTR E-type (requires for frame)Not required! You can make any 34,9 clamp-style derailleur fit. Lightest would be a Dura Ace with Speen Top-Pull adapter: ca. 80g
Nino, you did this on a scale right? Doesn't it interfer with the reccessed area of the seat tube or the e type bolt pick up? If you did it can you send me a pic or two?

List:
XO triggers
Elixer CR brakes
XO rear D
light rotors 160f&r
Seatpost?
Stem?
Flat bar with decent width/sweep?

Thanks for the input Nino, good stuff.
 

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The second option from a FD perspective is an XX. They come in a 120g and are a 2 ring specific item. This would require no modifications as there is a size to suit the scale frame
 

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Cezex said:
I've bought Cycle King Ultimate SL Ti 34.9x400mm which weight 207g. It has better shackle than the KCNC.
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This post is an option for those that have cheaper Scales with that massif over 300g aluminium seatpost. But i think for those with WCS seatposts the savings are not big enough. As mentioned above cheapest way to save big weight would be to get a light 31,6 seatpost and use a shim...this will result in a 150g seatpost.

Cutting such a carbon seatpost is worth ca. 3g so that SASO cut to 350mm lenght would still weigh 194g...Just remember the stock 34,9 WCS weighs somewhere around 230g.
 

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If you can steadily turn a 39T without needing the 28T granny gear, you can be like Absalon and go 1x9. It would eliminate the FD, left shifter, lots of housing and lots of frustration with adjusting the FD.

The other option would be to mount a 32, 34 or 36T chainring in the inner position. I'm not sure of the BCD of the inner ring on the XX. Might not exist.

Here's a pic from his World Cup bike



Word of warning, the trick seat tube mount for the MRP 1.X you see there isn't available yet, but is expected by spring. Seems much more sensible than a BB-mounted chain keeper.

Lots of guys use Paul's chain keeper in this kind of application, too.

Good luck.
 
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