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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I mounted up a WB Fluid 135 on my MOOTS last week. The WB manual gives all the info on how to tune it, but no suggestions on where to start. I'm not gonna get a whole lotta riding in on this bike, so I don't wanna waste a lot of time fiddling with the adjustments.

For my first ride I went out with the booster spring removed, a low amount of preload, and towards the lower range of compression damping (@10PSI). After riding it a little bit I added a lot of preload as I was blowing through the travel too quickly.

Went home, reinstalled the booster spring, removed most of the preload, and lowered the compression damping to almost nil (fork did not seem active enough on low speed hits). Am I getting close here? Rider weight 135lbs dripping wet and mostly nude.

This works.



This really works.



This was necessary to get it all to work.



Help me get this thing moving faster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Singletrack Pig said:
And pick up a Fox 120 with the Fit damper. I never got my WB to ride nice and plush but still stand up to big hits. The Fox is amazingly better.
Didn't you see this?:



I can't get the Fox knobs to clear for beans. The WB will be my fjork fjor better or fjor wjorse. Besides, you're fat and I need input from people who are not as grotesquely fat as you. Fatty.

This is not up for discussion.
 

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Underskilled
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Hi,

The WB is very linear, but a nice fork.

tune it in order,

first thing first get the spring correct.

Do you have spring stacks in both legs or just one?

Also if you are having small bump sensitivity problems, popping the constriction springs off the wipers helps lubrication.

Don't use any compression dampening, try running the chamber at negative pressure.
This will greatly increase small bump sens, but make you blow through travel faster.
 

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Dicky, your posts are some of the funniest here. A+ for use of found images. :thumbsup:

That's awesome that you're putting that monster fork on your bike, I hope it works out well for you - I really like my WB fork. You should email/call white brothers. They're great.
 

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I would have recommended to make small increments in adjustment so that you know what effect that each adjustment does.

It appears that you have the "I want it all and I want it now" attitude and so you must now make huge changes, ask "e-riders" for ridiculous advice which will have little to no bearing as to your riding style, terrain or real expectations and hope you stumble upon the correct setting.

For this endeavor I say...good luck! :D
 

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CaveGiant said:
Hi,

The WB is very linear, but a nice fork.

tune it in order,

first thing first get the spring correct.

Do you have spring stacks in both legs or just one?

Also if you are having small bump sensitivity problems, popping the constriction springs off the wipers helps lubrication.

Don't use any compression dampening, try running the chamber at negative pressure.
This will greatly increase small bump sens, but make you blow through travel faster.
Good advice.

If there are springs on the right (damper) side, remove them.

If you have any air pressure at all on the damper side, empty it. Even better, push the valve in and compress the fork, release the valve before letting it up to get "negative" pressure. you could do the same on the left side also if you have an air valve there.

Final fix is to get a softer spring stack from WB for the left side.
 

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Was gonna ask this on your blog.

But I'll do it here. What made you decide to keep the moots and turn it into something its not, instead of selling it, buy a paradox, or something similar that is purpose built for what you want, and pocket the rest of the cash.

Maybe you eluded to it on your blog and I didn't catch it. Do you feel obligated to keep the moots?

Not saying that what you did isn't going to work out for you.

Have fun, and keep riding so you have something to keep all of us fans amused by. :thumbsup:
 

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Loki said:
But I'll do it here. What made you decide to keep the moots and turn it into something its not, instead of selling it, buy a paradox, or something similar that is purpose built for what you want, and pocket the rest of the cash.

Maybe you eluded to it on your blog and I didn't catch it. Do you feel obligated to keep the moots?

Not saying that what you did isn't going to work out for you.

Have fun, and keep riding so you have something to keep all of us fans amused by. :thumbsup:
Team Bad Idea Racing corporate policy is to do things the hard way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
None said:
I would have recommended to make small increments in adjustment so that you know what effect that each adjustment does.

It appears that you have the "I want it all and I want it now" attitude and so you must now make huge changes, ask "e-riders" for ridiculous advice which will have little to no bearing as to your riding style, terrain or real expectations and hope you stumble upon the correct setting.

For this endeavor I say...good luck! :D
Thanks for your very accurate assessment.

I'm just used to fork manuals with suggestions based on rider weight...sure, they're never right, but they're a great place to start. The WB manual is sorely lacking in this department.

So maybe your assessment is a little off. I'm looking for a baseline to start with. Jumping off the staircase at the school behind my house and running into curbs makes for a very poor trail simulation.

I plan on riding this bike mostly in the mountains... somewhere I'll be like once or maybe even twice a month. Real world scenarios for that type of riding hardly exist here in the "Queen City". I figured that maybe, just maybe there woulda been another 130lb or so rider who has terrain similar to Pisgah and a WB Fluid who is more than an e-expert on fork tuning.*

*E-tuners do not be discouraged by this reply, but please do not tell me to drill holes in my fork, put marshmallows in my stanchions, or give up riding since I e-suck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Loki said:
But I'll do it here. What made you decide to keep the moots and turn it into something its not, instead of selling it, buy a paradox, or something similar that is purpose built for what you want, and pocket the rest of the cash.

Maybe you eluded to it on your blog and I didn't catch it. Do you feel obligated to keep the moots?

Not saying that what you did isn't going to work out for you.

Have fun, and keep riding so you have something to keep all of us fans amused by. :thumbsup:
Why keep the MOOTS? Aside from the long'esque stays (when compared to the Paradox and similar bikes) it's just about everything I would want in a bike. I don't even know if super short stays make a difference. I've ran my sliders all over the place (forward and back in the same gear), and if I was blindfolded I woulda never known the difference. The HTA works out to where I'd want it along with the BB height. I thought about selling it and buying something else (a carbon Niner, a RIP, a WFO) just to entertain my need for something different, but in the end I decided why should I have two Niner rigid SS's or a bunch of gears and squish I don't want. I got lucky that I had what I needed without doing anything I didn't need to do. The MOOTS just rips with that WB fork, and I'm as happy as I could be... especially without gears. I didn't necessarily make it into something it was not, just something it wasn't intended to be.

Except for the chainstay length (which is debatable) if I had a custom bike built around the 135mm fork it would probably be just about the same in all aspects as the MOOTS... just not as nice.

BTW: I hate gears.

Besides all that... I have a sweet ti frame that maybe, just maybe, I could keep forever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
And except for all the sarcasm and tomfoolery, thanks guys.

I'm gonna try the negative air pressure (or none at all). That might be what I'm looking for... of course the manual says 0-50 PSI and nothing about negative anything PSI. That's what you e-experts are good for.
 

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teamdicky said:
And except for all the sarcasm and tomfoolery, thanks guys.

I'm gonna try the negative air pressure (or none at all). That might be what I'm looking for... of course the manual says 0-50 PSI and nothing about negative anything PSI. That's what you e-experts are good for.
Or you could get on the phone and call WB directly. They are very helpful and I am sure they have set these up for 130lb riders like yourself before.

BTW, the negative air suggestion came from them originally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Enel said:
Or you could get on the phone and call WB directly. They are very helpful and I am sure they have set these up for 130lb riders like yourself before.

BTW, the negative air suggestion came from them originally.
I might do that.

Calling people while I'm at work is a PITA. Clients calling me for a delivery and not getting an immediate answer get antsy and somewhat irritated. I hate to blow them off with a "Hold on, I'm sorting out my fork issues with White Brothers right now".

Just did the negative air pressure thing. Feels better (in bike room squish tests). Maybe I'll get a chance to ride it this weekend and find out for sure.
 
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