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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

I would like to tell you about my ongoing dilemma. I (90 kg ready to ride) run a Shimano Saint brake setup on my Rocky Slayer along with Shimano RT-86 203 mm brake discs and H03C metal pads. The power this combination delivers is very nice, but I keep warping the rotors. I have had 4 rotors with this setup and after a few rides, I am punished with a metallic noise of a warped rotor turning inside the caliper. I used to bend them back with the Park Tool tool.

I was so annoyed, that I took the RT-86 rotors off and purchased a set of Trickstuff Dächle HD steel rotors with 2.05 mm thickness. They don´t offer the sheer aggressive bite, which the Shimano setup does, but they are quite close. Now, three weeks after the swap, the front rotor is warped and gives me that annoying noise while riding.

Is there any good brake setup, which is powerful enough to compete with the Saint - H03C pad - RT-86 rotor combination and is more resistant against warping?

I looked at Hope and Magura discs, but I don´t want to waste more money on something that doesn´t really work.
 

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It's the ice tech, man. Run the 76's, problem solved.

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bigger rotors are more likely to warp.

if your rotors get exposed to rapid heat cycles, they'll be more likely to warp. such as if they get hot on an extended descent and then get splashed in a stream crossing, but not exclusively this scenario. anything that causes rapid (and uneven) heat cycling can do it.
 

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Are you discoloring the rotors as well? Turning blue from heat that is.

It might be worth trying some larger rotors.

In fact, going to a TRP DHR-Evo might be a good solution for you if just larger rotors alone don't work. They run 2.3mm thick rotors to resist warping, and give more heat capacity (besides offering them in 223mm sizes). If reviews are to be believed, they're one of the top DH brakes right now (up there with Hayes Dominion).
 

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I love the power of my Saint brakes but I've had to use the resin H01A pads to eliminate the noise. They are silent and grab well, but don't last as long as metal..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's the ice tech, man. Run the 76's, problem solved.

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I may give them a shot.

bigger rotors are more likely to warp.

if your rotors get exposed to rapid heat cycles, they'll be more likely to warp. such as if they get hot on an extended descent and then get splashed in a stream crossing, but not exclusively this scenario. anything that causes rapid (and uneven) heat cycling can do it.
Ah well I use the bike for enduro riding. Just normal use I would say. Sudden heat drop is not likely to occur. Whenever I go down, I have to take quite some time to pedal back up.

Are you discoloring the rotors as well? Turning blue from heat that is.

It might be worth trying some larger rotors.

In fact, going to a TRP DHR-Evo might be a good solution for you if just larger rotors alone don't work. They run 2.3mm thick rotors to resist warping, and give more heat capacity (besides offering them in 223mm sizes). If reviews are to be believed, they're one of the top DH brakes right now (up there with Hayes Dominion).
No, they are not overheating. I am not sure if I can fit a 223 on my Rock Shox Lyrik (too much leverage for the brake mounts?) and furthermore a 2,3 mm rotor may be a very very tight fit. The 2,05 Trickstuff rotor was already a pain to set up with the required play.
 

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I may give them a shot.

Ah well I use the bike for enduro riding. Just normal use I would say. Sudden heat drop is not likely to occur. Whenever I go down, I have to take quite some time to pedal back up.

No, they are not overheating. I am not sure if I can fit a 223 on my Rock Shox Lyrik (too much leverage for the brake mounts?) and furthermore a 2,3 mm rotor may be a very very tight fit. The 2,05 Trickstuff rotor was already a pain to set up with the required play.
The Lyrik is certified for 223mm rotors, as are most of RockShoxes 35mm stanchion forks.

The two suggestions I had are separate, although they could be the same.

You are correct, the 2.3mm thick rotors are too thick to work in your shimanos. To use those you would need the TRP brakes designed for that thickness (the DHR EVO, and DHR Trail). The increased thickness would add heat capacity, and would resist warping better. This was in response to your question of "if there was any good brake setup that could compete with your Saints, but resist warping more".

However you can totally find other brands 223mm rotors, and use those. Galfer, Trickstuff, Magura, Hope, SRAM. All of them make 220 or 223mm rotors in either 1.8mm, or 2.0mm thicknesses that would work just fine with your current brakes. These larger rotors will ALSO resist overheating better than the smaller 203mm rotor, due to a larger surface area to dissapate heat, and a larger thermal mass that also takes longer to overheat.

However all of this was under the assumption that your brakes warping was due to overheating, which you say you're not doing. In which case, then the increased rotor size probably isn't the solution (but thicker rotors still could be). Are you somehow hitting, the rotors to make them go out of true? Because typically rotors don't usually go out of true by themselves if its not heat related afaik.
 

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After a dozen or so warped RT86 and going apeshit trying to true them... I'm very happy to have moved on to Galfer 1.8 one piece.
 

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Ice tech rotors warp because steel and aluminum cool at different rates. The 76's are fantastic rotors. Japan knows steel, has for a very long time.

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I'd give the resin pads a try before you switch brake systems, as those Saints are rock solid. I personally get better brake performance with resin pads- quicker stopping, no noise, less heat build up, and my rotors do not turn blue from heat as they did with metal pads. Admittedly shorter pad life- sometimes only 3 weeks if I'm living right and riding daily. (I only weigh 188 lbs / 85Kg) Good luck!
 

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I blue all my rotors. It represents nothing other than the fact that they got hot.

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