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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
G. morning!
I'm so so new to the Forum, and frankly so lost.. yet with some intuition hoping to get through somehow.. so pls. bear with me...
Ok, to the topic: new project in my mind... converting my old Novara Matador 29er Bike - 2014 | REI Co-op to the Ebike, with Bafang BBS02 or BBSHD (thinking more 2nd, wth 42 or 44T front)...

1. When ordering assembly kit, I need to know: what kind of bottom bracket does my bike have ??? Anyone that knows this bike???? what's the answer???
2. citing.. but to the point: "BBSxx motors have a bottom bracket shaft diameter of 33.5 mm and are designed to fit into the bicycle bottom bracket standard known as JIS or Japanese Industrial Standard, which is very similar to our standard here in the US commonly referred to as "square tapered spindle", ISO/English, BSA, British, or "threaded". Available in 4 widths, (68 mm)(73 mm Oversize)(83 mm Some Downhill & FR bikes)(100 mm "Fat bikes") "

So as you can see, if I do purchase kit for $1300+ I need to have some more info that just my 'want to'...

Thank you very much!

p.s. I'm thinking calling REI and find out answers, but for 'sake of exercise' of learning 'forum' just wanted first to hit here.
 

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According to the spec provided on your link you currently have a Truvativ Powerspline bottom bracket fitted.

The Truvativ bb is a cartridge type similar to a square taper except instead of a square shape on the ends of the spindle, it's circular with splines:-

Automotive tire Camera accessory Auto part Electric blue Plastic


The BSA/English thread refers to a bottom bracket shell standard. Basically a bb shell/frame that's threaded for installation of various types of bottom brackets provided they use the same BSA/English threaded standard.

Although it's not mentioned in the bb or bike spec you're almost guaranteed that you have (the most common) BSA threaded shell on your bike. It could be 68mm or 73mm wide so to confirm just measure the frame's shell width with a ruler or calipers etc.

To 100% confirm you have a BSA thread, the drive side bb cup tightens anti-clockwise. You're Truvativ bb will also have a serial number which relates the shell width (68 or 73) followed by (1.37″ x 24tpi) which is the BSA thread standard and the shell is approximately 34.8mm internal diameter.

I don't know anything about the motor except it will fit the frame but your current crank arms (if required) won't fit the Bafang's square taper spindle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks ! I'm very impressed with level of technicality behind your answer which is way beyond my scope.... I will provide later here Amazon's, or other sites like i think Luna link to assembly kit so you or whoever may asses what's good in it or get me maybe a better ideas.......i think cranks are provided. I'm limited at this point with English names of pnaming bike's parts, as English is not my native language, but am learning...thanks again!
 

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Your bottom bracket will accommodate a BBS. The only thing you need to do is determine its width which is either 73 mm (probably) or 68 mm. If it's 73 mm you won't be able to use the "jam" nut with a BBS02 (which isn't acceptable for me, and I use 63 mm frames only), but should work with BBSHD. Look at YouTube videos, and if you have any questions ask. Also, you'll probably save money buying from Luna Cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Your bottom bracket will accommodate a BBS. The only thing you need to do is determine its width which is either 73 mm (probably) or 68 mm. If it's 73 mm you won't be able to use the "jam" nut with a BBS02 (which isn't acceptable for me, and I use 63 mm frames only), but should work with BBSHD. Look at YouTube videos, and if you have any questions ask. Also, you'll probably save money buying from Luna Cycle.
Thanks!! I know this project is bit far ahead of me.. Especially because of Winter, and to me makes a very little senes to spend so much money on 52V battery that will be waiting on shelf for at least 4 months. Here in Cleveland, OH area Winters (like in most of Midwest region) / cold month are not short framed. I wonder what's your experience for 'out of season' discounts? Is ironically better to buy equipment in the middle of the Winter? I am pretty sure it can be a factor, i.e. out of season, at least in tourism, but have no clue if the same governes 'bikes' world'??

Could someone also pls. tell me if Cannondale Tesoro Neo X 2 Electric Bike | REI Co-op
has better accessories than mine? (fork, brakes)?? - are they similar??
: Novara Matador 29er Bike - 2014 | REI Co-op

SRAM shifters from what I'm reading has slightly better reviews than Shimano's... Also fork in Metador has a 'lock' function (not a deal breaker for me, never frankly am using on my Matador), so maybe better as well... I think a 'lock' function must be good for bit uneven still harder roads for high speeds curve for better control - makes probably no difference for ordinary cruising, this is probably why Connondale decided not to include it in order to keep price lower??



I'm trying to justify Cannondale's not low price. My Matador years back cost me ~$1500 after ~ $300 sale.. To me Cannondale's price, assuming is very similar on quality to mine has price 'equivalent' to mine (thinking inflations). My Matador runs excellent (like new), I'm not frequent biker, in the Summer time every 3rd weekend on the average ~ 6-8 miles, and can easily use among rest of family...

The biggest question seems to me the electric part. I have took bike test ride, and I was sold instantly, how well Cannondale's performed flying over hilly road 28mph with no effort against quite strong wind... Also, I have tried on muddy grass on quite steep hill effortless... I guess I'm trying ultimately find out if I'm not downgrading quality of bike comparing to Metador. Matador has nice 3 gears up front which for cruising is just very comfortable (as a regular bike) to ride. Brakes are similar (again based what I've read).. Seems to me, that the biggest loose is in two areas: price, and power of motor vs 'converting myself' kit from Bafang.. (500W vs Connondale's 250W setup), no trottle... 250W was still powerful to me.. so don't know if that's because the Bosh's Performance technology??? I don't even know if this is apple to apple orange to orange... I'm not looking for 'beast' as I'm not hard core biker, but I don't look for 'weak' performer either. I like to take steep hills from time to time, but 95% of biking to me are just roads and bike trailes. ..

Sorry for long and boring 'modified' post.. Just do trust more into forum users than sales people from REI or any other bike store....

Technology changes rapidly, so am not sure how 'relevant' is this article I found : Apples to Apples? Bosch vs. Bafang Ultra ... my last thoughts are toward Bosh (less powered) yet more 'piece of mind' for quality... am I wrong??

I know I started totally different discussion and changed it into buy or build...but .. just brainstorming.. ;)

Thanks for any opinions.
 

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I have a BBS02 conversion and a Haibike, and the primary differences (to me) are the Haibike is easier to ride with both torque and RPM sensors than the BBS with only RPM and the BBS easier to service with everything external (although I haven't had a problem with it in the six + years it has been in service). I've used it 80% - 90% of the time since it's more fun to ride than the Haibike. IMO, if you're a DIY type get the BBS, if not the Cannondale. However, since your donor bike is fairly old, I think you'd have more fun on the Cannondale. How is that for being wishy - washy?
 

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Few and far between diy'ers on mtbr, no need for mid drives in most situations, best to go with a hub motor.
So you live in a hilly area like San Fransisco?
If you still want more breakable parts such is the mid drive, then yes you must pay very close attention to the bottom bracket of the donor bicycle. Otherwise look at Leafbike, MXUS, QS hub motors.

G. morning!
I'm so so new to the Forum, and frankly so lost.. yet with some intuition hoping to get through somehow.. so pls. bear with me...
Ok, to the topic: new project in my mind... converting my old Novara Matador 29er Bike - 2014 | REI Co-op to the Ebike, with Bafang BBS02 or BBSHD (thinking more 2nd, wth 42 or 44T front)...

1. When ordering assembly kit, I need to know: what kind of bottom bracket does my bike have ??? Anyone that knows this bike???? what's the answer???
2. citing.. but to the point: "BBSxx motors have a bottom bracket shaft diameter of 33.5 mm and are designed to fit into the bicycle bottom bracket standard known as JIS or Japanese Industrial Standard, which is very similar to our standard here in the US commonly referred to as "square tapered spindle", ISO/English, BSA, British, or "threaded". Available in 4 widths, (68 mm)(73 mm Oversize)(83 mm Some Downhill & FR bikes)(100 mm "Fat bikes") "

So as you can see, if I do purchase kit for $1300+ I need to have some more info that just my 'want to'...

Thank you very much!

p.s. I'm thinking calling REI and find out answers, but for 'sake of exercise' of learning 'forum' just wanted first to hit here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Few and far between diy'ers on mtbr, no need for mid drives in most situations, best to go with a hub motor.
So you live in a hilly area like San Fransisco?
If you still want more breakable parts such is the mid drive, then yes you must pay very close attention to the bottom bracket of the donor bicycle. Otherwise look at Leafbike, MXUS, QS hub motors.
No, I'm from Cleveland, OH (South outskirts). For easiness of servicing mid drive is my choice, thank you for your voice though! ... I am leaning very much toward Connondale, a ready set from REI despite more expensive. From my research, Bafang has questionable reliability, and practically 0 service support. I understand perfectly though people that know how to fix them and want 'hard core' time for less money. I wil use my Matador within family - a gr8 cruising (I bit adjusted it more toward cruising) bike (new more comfortable saddle and slightly modified handlebar). I'm also thinking about getting REI's bike with different handle bar (my carpal tunnel issues) and definitely more comfy saddle.
 

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A couple of comments: if you have carpal tunnel try Jones pull-back bars as opposed to std MTB bars. The Jones allow you to keep your lower arms at a more natural angle. Second: what is so difficult about servicing a mid-drive? I’ve been running BBSHDs for several years and have yet to do more than lube the chain.
I am assuming that since you are posting in a MTB forum that you want to ride, at least some of the time, off road. If so a heavy low torque hub motor is the last thing you want, especially if you are considering converting a bike with rear suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
A couple of comments: if you have carpal tunnel try Jones pull-back bars as opposed to std MTB bars. The Jones allow you to keep your lower arms at a more natural angle. Second: what is so difficult about servicing a mid-drive? I’ve been running BBSHDs for several years and have yet to do more than lube the chain.
I am assuming that since you are posting in a MTB forum that you want to ride, at least some of the time, off road. If so a heavy low torque hub motor is the last thing you want, especially if you are considering converting a bike with rear suspension.
Thanks! Cannondale Tesoro Neo X1 is mid-drive not HUB> thx for your comments.
 
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