[Velobike]

...I have a guy on myt facebook, he has a blog he put a 135 3 speed hub on his 170 cruiser using axlw extenders and it worked fine for him. He did have to drill one through for the cable but he said the chain still lined up ok, rides fine...

It's an interesting approach - any chance of some pics?

If it is a Sturmey-Archer hub, the adjustment mark is the end of the axle, so if he has extended it, then there needs to be a new mark. (If he hasn't done so expect the hub to fail because hubgears have to be adjusted accurately, not twiddled until they stop making noises.)

 

[AC/BC]

Has anyone thought of running a triple up front with a front derailure? You could run a 28,32,36 and have a pretty decent mix of gearing.

I might try this if I can find a front derailure in my boxes of parts. I know I have a triple crankset laying around here that I could throw on. hmm





EDIT: Come to think of it I have a few different types of direct mount front deraillures I could try out. I also have a Problem Solvers mount off of a Mukluk too.




.

 

[Bill in Houston]

you'd need a tensioner in the back, and then you couldn't use the coaster brakes. you had me all excited for a minute... if you got rid of the coaster brakes, then i think what you described would be pretty awesome.

 

[dudeist]

Tektro cr720 cantis have really wide cable attachment points, and problem solvers sells
an extra wide spreader arm. I've ordered and will see if they can clear the tires. Then I'll
try to find a way to bolt on bosses. I know they should be welded, but time and $$ spent are adding up. Sinz makes a brake post extension adapter that maybe could bolt on. I don't think drilling a few holes in this Beast will hurt--it might even be a good idea.

 

[Bill in Houston]

a front brake would be really nice.

 

[BATRG3]

I'm eyeing up the Sun Crusher hub as a candidate. Determine if it can do disc brakes and if not maybe look into calipers.

Hadn't thought seriously about drum brakes until now, as an option for the front.

 

[GrayJay]

Tektro cr720 cantis have really wide cable attachment points, and problem solvers sells
an extra wide spreader arm. I've ordered and will see if they can clear the tires. Then I'll
try to find a way to bolt on bosses. I know they should be welded, but time and $$ spent are adding up. Sinz makes a brake post extension adapter that maybe could bolt on. I don't think drilling a few holes in this Beast will hurt--it might even be a good idea.

Brazing cantilever post to steel is really very simple project, you will likely spend less $ doing it right and getting them brazed-on rather than trying to engineer a band-aid adapter fix.

 

[hikernks]

WalGoose (stock) - $200
New Tires - $120
New Tubes - $30
Disc Brake Calipers and rotors - $100
New hubs - $100
Bottom Bracket and crankset - $150
Pugsley Fork - $100
New Seat - $25
New Handlebars - $25
Braze-ons, cables, misc - $50
New Derailleurs - $100

Grand Total - $1,000

These numbers aren't gospel, and I'm sure you could find stuff cheaper/parts bin/etc, but I can absolutely promise you that you will be so much happier with a used Pugsley for the same price. If you're looking to get into fat bikes cheap, save your money and get a quality used one, because in the end, you're going to have a shitty Wal-Mart bike that ended up costing you $1,000. Making all these upgrades will undoubtably improve the ride quality, but it's still going to be nowhere near a true fat-bike. Do it if you want, it's not my money, but I can absolutely promise you that you'll be much happier with a quality frame and bike.

 

[AC/BC]

$1000 into this turd? lol.. a lot of us are just tinkering with this bike and having fun. Here is my break down.

Mongoose $215
Sold stock tires -$25
Sold stock tubes -$20
=$170


Saddle +$10 (clearance bin)
Seat Post +$12 (aawyeah.com)
2.5" Tubes +$8 (aawyea.comh)
Endomorphs +$40 (craigs)

=$240




I've also got boxes of used parts, cranksets, derailllures, handlebars, stems, everything.

 

[69tr6r]

+1! Do it right if you're going to go all in. It's a fine bike to mess around with, but don't make the mistake of putting even $500 into the beast.

WalGoose (stock) - $200
New Tires - $120
New Tubes - $30
Disc Brake Calipers and rotors - $100
New hubs - $100
Bottom Bracket and crankset - $150
Pugsley Fork - $100
New Seat - $25
New Handlebars - $25
Braze-ons, cables, misc - $50
New Derailleurs - $100

Grand Total - $1,000

These numbers aren't gospel, and I'm sure you could find stuff cheaper/parts bin/etc, but I can absolutely promise you that you will be so much happier with a used Pugsley for the same price. If you're looking to get into fat bikes cheap, save your money and get a quality used one, because in the end, you're going to have a shitty Wal-Mart bike that ended up costing you $1,000. Making all these upgrades will undoubtably improve the ride quality, but it's still going to be nowhere near a true fat-bike. Do it if you want, it's not my money, but I can absolutely promise you that you'll be much happier with a quality frame and bike.

 

[AC/BC]

I should probably add that the bottom bracket and front hub don't really need replacing or upgrading. They're old-tech and completely serviceable. Once they start feeling shitty just throw new ball bearings and grease into them. Cheap and simple.

 

[Bill in Houston]

given the level of technology we are talking about, certain expensive parts don't even exist. the only known replacement bb spindle is $12, upgraded replacement bb bearings are $8, and how much can you even spend on a square-taper crankset?

but i do appreciate the point that is being made. definitely no reason to spend a bunch of money on parts that can't be moved to a different frame. thank you for the advice.

 

[bikeabuser]

given the level of technology we are talking about, certain expensive parts don't even exist. the only known replacement bb spindle is $12, upgraded replacement bb bearings are $8, and how much can you even spend on a square-taper crankset?

but i do appreciate the point that is being made. definitely no reason to spend a bunch of money on parts that can't be moved to a different frame. thank you for the advice.

It is some good advise ... It shows that one can collect stuff, have a $200 bike to experiment on, and then transfer it to a custom built frame, for less than one would find a used Pugsley, or ... Most any commercial bike that will accept Bud & Lou's on 100's

Of course total price obviously depends on what you might want in the final result, and how much you can do yourself.

Heck,
The hub I would prefer on the back costs way more than the price of a Goose.

That list equates to the (purchased/sold in quantity) $500-800 bike a few have talked about wishing would hit the market.
Spec wise ... It's one step up from the SUN cruiser, IMO.

 

[GrayJay]

To add disk to the rear on the cheap, use this $30 170mm hub;
Wide Hub - Freewheel/Disc BLK - Cycles U.S. LLC/Choppers U.S.

If you also want casette for muli-gears, then coldset the fatgoose rear triangle down to offset 135mm and use cheap regular 135mm MTB disk hubs.