I replaced my cassette last week and didn't have any problems removing the cassette from the hub. Once the lockring was removed, all the pieces of the cassette slid our fairly easily. I have the XRP Pro Super Lite wheel set as well.
I think the design of the cassette and the soft-as-butter freehub together are the problem. In order to save weight, Shimano have made the cassette out of multiple individual pieces, and did not riveted them together. Instead of the load being distributed across the full width of the cassette, hi torque creates a spot load on just one gear that enables it to deform the soft freehub. The worst damage was under the high gears, with the low gears (three riveted together) showing very little damage.****** said:Steve: You are not alone. Because I live around flatland XC and often ride my FLY on steep mountain logging roads, I switch cassetts among my bikes often. The Vuelta freehub body is soft and deforming, making it difficult to remove the cassette(s). I'll have to replace the freehub body in the future, but I don't think I'll have problems getting through this season and the 24 hour race I am doing this weekend.
Let me know what you come up with. I'll look closer (when I have time) to see if one of my cassettes is the cause of the problem and let you know what I think.
G.
The cassettes made out of separate pieces are actually heavier but they are cheaper to make. The gouging problem will happen with any aluminum freehub when combined with a cassette with separate cogs. The unfortunate conclusion of these two facts is that you have to buy the more expensive cassettes to avoid problems with that freehub.SSteve F said:I think the design of the cassette and the soft-as-butter freehub together are the problem. In order to save weight, Shimano have made the cassette out of multiple individual pieces, and did not riveted them together. Instead of the load being distributed across the full width of the cassette, hi torque creates a spot load on just one gear that enables it to deform the soft freehub. The worst damage was under the high gears, with the low gears (three riveted together) showing very little damage.
The solution is either to switch to a different cassette, or a stronger (thus heavier) freehub body. I was wondering if anyone has found a light/strong freehub?
I also have the Pro 2 singlespeed hub and have around 10,000 km's of serious mashing on it with no signs of damage. Most the singlespeed cogs I use are a little wider on the bottom (around 5mm?), but still, with that concentrated load you would expect some damage. I am guessing the higher-end hubs are anodized.Curmy said:Plenty (all) of high-end hubs with aluminum shells have the same problem. Aluminum is aluminum. My Hope Pro 2 wheels came with a warning about that and advised to use only cassettes with a carrier, which I do anyway. American Classic has a neat solution with steel inserts.
I have seen a thread about making you own inserts from carpenter staples. I should try it one day, but so far my Vuelta hub holds up.
That's plenty to disperse load, usually problem is with single thin steel cogs, especially with large ones - 24t+ that generate more torque.SSteve F said:Most the singlespeed cogs I use are a little wider on the bottom (around 5mm?),