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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got my VP-free frame.
I am building it up this weekend. I've decided to just use my standard ISIS
cranks and wait for Race Face to develop a longer spindle for the Diabolus
which I hear is in the works.

Anyway, I got an E-type derailer that Scott Turner from Santa Cruz suggested and a Travative 128mm BB for optimum chainline.

Without having the BB installed yet, I sort of assembled the derailer to the
clamp adaptor that came with the frame to see what I got.

As I see it right now mounted to the adaptor, the BB part of the derailer is
1/4" away from the BB housing. How is this to work? Will I tighten the drive
side cup of the BB until it pushes this tight?

I have also been told to mount the etype derailer to the supplied frame clamp without mounting the part of the derailer that mounts to the BB. This cannot rally be how this is meant to work is it? I have attached a pic (last one) of this type set-up as well and the derailer would be free to rotate around one screw and/or snap off.

Seems like a pretty good distance and quite tough from the top looking down.
I have attached some pics so you can see what I mean.

For those who have built these up, did you use standard derailer or the etype that Santa Cruz recommends with the little supplied adaptor? Will a standard derailer swing out far enough to reach two chainrings with a 150mm rear hub spaced chainline?

I also have an Evil/e-13 DRS chainguide to throw into this mix with a special e-type mounting plate from EVIL that they say I will need to mount the derailer to if I use an etype one.

What a mess. Everybody has a different answer or theory on which is best and none of them really seem like they will work. I know some people are riding these with great success. Although I doubt the chainline is setup right in alot of these cases and alot of the build ups I have seen have just a single chainring up front, so these issues do not really apply.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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I guess I'm confused too. I don't think that you are supposed to mount the part from the derailler to the BB cup (the silver thing in all but the last picture). My understanding was that you mounted the derrailer to the supplied SC adaptor that bolted around the seattube. Can anyone confirm this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
robsetsfire said:
I guess I'm confused too. I don't think that you are supposed to mount the part from the derailler to the BB cup (the silver thing in all but the last picture). My understanding was that you mounted the derrailer to the supplied SC adaptor that bolted around the seattube. Can anyone confirm this?
BY mounting it without the silver plate as in the last picture, there is only one screw holding it there. The back of the derailer does not even seat well to the supplied Santa Cruz frame adaptor and the small screw from the derailer holding it there is partially countersunk with a little nub designed to fit in the silver plate, so it does not even seat well or flush to just the remaining part of the derailer in the last pic.
Got this as tight as possible and this derailer just pivots around the screw with hardly any pressure. As I said earlier, this will constabtly be getting rotated or it will snap off wuickly and often.
 

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From my understanding you will not use the plate that attaches to the E type der.

You will unscrew and direct mount it to the adapter as you have in the last photo, I too attached it and saw that it didn't look all that great either, that's when I took the standard der. approach.

Word on the hill is also that, Shimano is trying to develope new standards 83 mm shell, 150 rear end spacing and a new front der. to handle long travel bikes. I guess we'll see, but I bet it's a few years before everything is sorted out and we have standards for this sort of thing, until then, I think it'll just continue to be a cluster on how we set up our rigs.


btw, you'll atleast want to chase those threads in that b.b., they say they are faced and chased prior to painting, but I would highly recommend atleast chasing those threads so that you can more easily install your b.b. If you do'nt want to face it I understand, removing that protrusion is a hair scarey if you don't have a steady hand and patience or a park facing tool.
 

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btw, you'll atleast want to chase those threads in that b.b., they say they are faced and chased prior to painting, but I would highly recommend atleast chasing those threads so that you can more easily install your b.b. If you do'nt want to face it I understand, removing that protrusion is a hair scarey if you don't have a steady hand and patience or a park facing tool.[/QUOTE]

Yes, absolutely chase those threads or you'll end up with the bb cup threads all galled up inside. It's not pretty.
 

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slayer2003 said:
Do I chase the BB threads even on a polished frame?
There is no paint on this bike.
YES, read my above post,

Paint never touches the threads and has nothing to do with the threads, the threads on your polished frame would need chasing just as much as any other vpfree regardless of finish, since the bikes are not painted/polished/ano'd inside the frame, it has nothing to do with what finish you have on your frame. the threads are inside the b.b. shell......
 

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Facing = Removing material evenly & equally from the Bottom Bracket & Headtube to ensure a proper interface between BB Cups & Headset.

Chasing = refers to the Threads of the Bottom Bracket. Sometimes Framesets come into shops with either Paint/Powder Coat in the threads and they need to be Chased with a special tool to clean and even repair a crossed thread in some instances.

- Special Tools are required for both procedures
 
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